4th Axis Build Help

jimemack

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I am making a 4th axis spindle and have designed it with an aluminum housing/casing - 6" long x 5" high x 4" wide. Will aluminum stand up to those forces from an X2 mill? The housing will be 4" wide, perpendicular to the axis, along the "Y" direction of the table. I'm just worried that the forces might "push" the housing and temporarily, minutely deform it, either vertically or horizontally, creating inaccurate cuts. I probably should have purchased a block of steel, but I wasn't thinking. I haven't cut anything yet, so, worst case, I'm out $64, which is better than being out $64 and having to rebuild it.

Thanks.
 
Are you machining this out of a solid billet of aluminum? If so, I would say that you are safe from deflections caused by cutting forces. Give it a good base to sit on, and I doubt you will ever see a problem. Your little X2 will have a hard time deflecting a 4 inch piece of aluminum.

That being said, make sure that you leave as much material as possible, don't shave off anything you don't absolutely need to.

Good luck! I would love to see the photos when you are done!

-Cody
 
Thank you for the info, much appreciated.

Regarding the aluminum, would there be a problem pressing in the bearings at both ends, or would that potentially cause stress problems? Also, I'm not sure how much undersized I should make the interference-fit openings, which will both be about 2.83" (72mm) in diameter and 1.1" (28.75mm) deep.

As you can tell, I'm new at this.

Jim
 
I would use 7050 or 7075 aluminum. It will cost a little more, but they are much stronger materials.
 
I just checked the price of 7075 vs. the price for 1018 steel vs. the price for 6061:

4" x 5" x 6" 7075 = $162.20
4" x 5" x 6" 1018 = $114.84
4" x 5" x 6" 6061 = $64.20 <--- what I paid.

I'll have to try and make the 6061 work.
 
Jimemack,
I don't think he is bashing your choice but you are getting a weaker aluminum alloy. If you are building it as a tool for life, then maybe the added expense is worth it. If it is just a test or occasional use, you'll probably be ok.

Here is a quick "vs" between the 2.

Basically 7075 about 70% stronger and 63% harder. These numbers vary. It has zinc and copper added to it for strength and it machines very well, but its very difficult to weld with. It also dissapates heat a lot better than 6000 aluminum. 7000 series aluminum is stronger than mild steel.

So it does make it a little more apparent why it cost considerably more.

Chris
 
Jimemack,
I don't think he is bashing your choice but you are getting a weaker aluminum alloy. If you are building it as a tool for life, then maybe the added expense is worth it. If it is just a test or occasional use, you'll probably be ok.

Here is a quick "vs" between the 2.

Basically 7075 about 70% stronger and 63% harder. These numbers vary. It has zinc and copper added to it for strength and it machines very well, but its very difficult to weld with. It also dissapates heat a lot better than 6000 aluminum. 7000 series aluminum is stronger than mild steel.

So it does make it a little more apparent why it cost considerably more.

Chris



Do you mean "70% stronger and 63% harder" than 6061? I'm not sure I agree with that. Can you show me your source for that info?

Thanks,
Jim
 
Here is a page of stats of various aluminum alloys

http://www.onlinemetals.com/aluminumguide.cfm

Though I get about 85% stronger for 7075 than 6061 (for yield strength, which is what you care about) using these numbers. The thing is, you probably don't care about strength. I'm guessing you are going to have enough "meat" there that the material itself is not going to shear or deform. Your probably most concerned with 2 things, stiffness, and dampening. Stiffness is roughly the same for any aluminum alloy you get (take a look at the "modulus of elasticity" or "young's modulus" for materials to compare, bigger is stiffer). You can get stiffer by going to steel (it's 3 times as stiff as aluminum) or cast iron (about 1.5 times as stiff as aluminum).

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/young-modulus-d_773.html

Ok, now lets talk about dampening. I'm not aware of a metric for dampening, but cast iron is generally considered very good (one of the reasons machine tools are made out of it), and steel is considered poor. Try an experiment. Take a piece of steel and a piece of cast iron roughly the same size and shape and tap them against something hard. The steel will "ring". The cast iron will make a dull thud. Try it with wrought aluminum, and it will ring, but probably not as much as the steel. I guess what I'm saying is, aluminum is probably a "middle of the road" choice, and the alloy is irrelevant (though, cast aluminum _would_ be better, as it has better damping than wrought aluminum).

Hardness may be a concern, but most of your wear is likely going to be on the bottom, and you could re-surface that. If you are worried about cosmetic damage on the visible portion, you could annodize it, and that will make the surface _real_ hard. You could also mount it to a steel or cast iron "foot" for mounting, I honestly don't think you are going to run into issues for years if at all.

As for pressing the bearings in, I think you will want 1-2 thousands interference. Make sure the bearing pocket is cool when you take your final measurements, aluminum expands a lot when heated. You will also want to chamfer the edges to ease entry. Make sure you press on the outer races when you press it in, not the inner race. If you are not going with shielded or sealed bearings, make sure you have enough room to work in an external seal.

Have you chosen bearings? Have you figured out how you are going to pre-load the bearings?
 
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