4X6 Bandsaw Troubles

MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

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Hello all,

I got a smoking deal on a Grizzly 4x6 bandsaw. The saw was hardly used. When I first got it home I made a couple small adjustments and it cut great.

As time permitted I started going through the saw. I have come to an issue that has me stumped and I have wasted lots of time on. The problem is with the thrust bearings. With the bearings backed off so they are just kissing the blade the blade is better then 1/16 above the deck. So It will not fully cut through stock. The bolt that stops the saw from coming down is adjusted as far as I can. Any further and the saw frame will hit the deck. When I got the saw the thrust bearings were pushing the blade bellow the deck. Making it possible to cut through stock. I know there shouldn't be that much pressure on the thrust bearing.

I have messed with everything from wheel alignment to trying to adjust the pivot arm. No luck.

Does anyone have any suggestions for me. Has anyone else run into this issue?
 
I think that's is good adjustment practice for a vertical bandsaw. I don't think necessary for horizontal saw, adjust the blade to where you need it. I don't see what harm it can cause?
 
Pictures would help see what can be adjusted. On my Kalamazoo the manual says to track the blade without any influences of guide wheels. So I would try moving the blade with guides it will only put pressure on them and they will wear out quicker.
Can you move the vise front or back to get a different angle on blade?? Pictures!
 
Pictures would help see what can be adjusted. On my Kalamazoo the manual says to track the blade without any influences of guide wheels. So I would try moving the blade with guides it will only put pressure on them and they will wear out quicker.
Can you move the vise front or back to get a different angle on blade?? Pictures!

I'll post pics after work. There are no adjustments that I am aware of.
 
I think that's is good adjustment practice for a vertical bandsaw. I don't think necessary for horizontal saw, adjust the blade to where you need it. I don't see what harm it can cause?

Thanks for the reply.
 
Unless I’m missing something, the inboard bearings make the blade straight to the work after coming off the tension and drive wheels and should have on clearance , top and outboard bearings just touching blade.
The inboard bearings need to twist the blade so it enters the work straight. That’s how mine works .
 
I understand your issue- two questions:
1) when you adjust the stop bolt, which part of the saw frame touches the deck?
2) you said when you got the saw, the bearings were adjusted to push the blade down- how?

I know on mine the stop bolt has to be carefully adjusted or one of the inboard bearings hits the deck, and the blade just barely enters
the slot on the deck. Marginal design. But it cuts nice.
Mark
 
I understand your issue- two questions:
1) when you adjust the stop bolt, which part of the saw frame touches the deck?
2) you said when you got the saw, the bearings were adjusted to push the blade down- how?

I know on mine the stop bolt has to be carefully adjusted or one of the inboard bearings hits the deck, and the blade just barely enters
the slot on the deck. Marginal design. But it cuts nice.
Mark

It hits near the on off switch.

The adjustment on the bearing block moves in and out in addition to side to side and rotate . Allowing one to locate the thrust bearing just behind the blade and adjust for the blade being square to the table..
 
I suspect it's like mine- plenty of clearance on the guide near the driving wheel but on the other guide not so good
What about the main pivot- any adjustment there or is it fixed to the deck like the later models?
Pix will help too when you get a chance
 
I would put it back to how it was when it was cutting great. I’m a firm believer of if it’s not broke don’t fix it.
Those bearings are there to contact the blade and keep it straight
 
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