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618 Craftsman 101.21400 New Owner Needing an Assist
- Thread starter Hoppes 9
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 10,502
As you remove the collar, take care not to lose the lead or brass pellet that is in the bottom of the tapped holes. If you do lose them and put the screws back in without them, you will definitely not like the results if you ever again need to remove the collar. The pellets prevent the screws from damaging the threads when you tighten them.
On the subject of manuals and parts drawings, you will find almost every manual that anyone has ever scanned in our Downloads. Most of them have had a lot of cleaning up done before they were uploaded. And numerous corrections have been made to some of them. The best parts manual for the 618 is the 1950 edition. It has had the most improvements and corrections done, plus being the best quality scan to start with.
Access to Downloads does require that you be a donor, as the monthly cost of the storage space is a significant part of what the site costs each month to keep it live.
On the subject of manuals and parts drawings, you will find almost every manual that anyone has ever scanned in our Downloads. Most of them have had a lot of cleaning up done before they were uploaded. And numerous corrections have been made to some of them. The best parts manual for the 618 is the 1950 edition. It has had the most improvements and corrections done, plus being the best quality scan to start with.
Access to Downloads does require that you be a donor, as the monthly cost of the storage space is a significant part of what the site costs each month to keep it live.
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2015
- Messages
- 11,232
A trick I've used to remove collars like that is to back out the setscrew slightly (in your case someone substituted a plain screw) and use an automotive-type hose clamp tightened on the collar such that the inner joint of the clamp "catches" the edge of the setscrew. Then use the channelock pliers (or vise-grips) to loosen the collar and you won't have any marring. Replace setscrew with new one if necessary. You can also use a "sacrificial" setscrew ahead of time if the original must be preserved.
mark
mark
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2014
- Messages
- 613
Can someone tell me what size thread the set screws are please in standard American format & also the size of the adjusting nut .
IE 10-32 or whatever it is, as the for the grub screws threads are impossible to identify, for the hole is cone shaped from misuse/ damage ( not mine I may add).
When I adjusted the taper roller bearing last week during the annual servicing of the lathe I realised one of the grub screws are missing , the one present was direct onto the thread . The grub screw itself is a very badly worn slotted head it took several light grinds on the grind stone to make a sharp cutting edge on the screw driver to extract it .
I think I'll try and get the new nut and turn it down as suggested , make a simple ring spanner on the lathe , weld a handle to it out of 1/2 " thick mild steel plate and tap it for putting in a small high tensile steel bolt as has been suggested & make some lead or Black Delrin seating plugs to fit the holes
On second thoughts ….. would it be possible to only turn off enough of the nut flats off to give clearance on the gear teeth & leave the rest of the hex nut in place so you can put a big bi hex spanner on it instead , drilling & tapping out the two locking grub screw holes as well ?
IE 10-32 or whatever it is, as the for the grub screws threads are impossible to identify, for the hole is cone shaped from misuse/ damage ( not mine I may add).
When I adjusted the taper roller bearing last week during the annual servicing of the lathe I realised one of the grub screws are missing , the one present was direct onto the thread . The grub screw itself is a very badly worn slotted head it took several light grinds on the grind stone to make a sharp cutting edge on the screw driver to extract it .
I think I'll try and get the new nut and turn it down as suggested , make a simple ring spanner on the lathe , weld a handle to it out of 1/2 " thick mild steel plate and tap it for putting in a small high tensile steel bolt as has been suggested & make some lead or Black Delrin seating plugs to fit the holes
On second thoughts ….. would it be possible to only turn off enough of the nut flats off to give clearance on the gear teeth & leave the rest of the hex nut in place so you can put a big bi hex spanner on it instead , drilling & tapping out the two locking grub screw holes as well ?
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2013
- Messages
- 3,203
I believe that grub screw is #8 - 32 X 3/16" headless slotted. At least that is what the drawing shows, and it sounds about right as well.
The thread on the outboard end of the spindle is 3/4" - 16 which is a standard UNF thread.
As far as turning down only enough to clear the gear teeth, I suspect it would probably work. It may interfere with the hole in the cover door, but if it did it wouldn't be by much and might be able to made to work.
-frank
The thread on the outboard end of the spindle is 3/4" - 16 which is a standard UNF thread.
As far as turning down only enough to clear the gear teeth, I suspect it would probably work. It may interfere with the hole in the cover door, but if it did it wouldn't be by much and might be able to made to work.
-frank
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2014
- Messages
- 613
Many thanks Frank .
As my lathe is an American export specialist military use model, badged as an Atlas, " Made in Great Britain " with a few British made parts added once it arrived in the UK, sent to the UK as part of the marshal plan / lease lend programme in mid 1940's things are occasionally slightly different here & there on the machine. Everything is UNF or UN thankfully .
I'll need check the measurements & if they kind of agree I'll order them later on as it's now 00: 42 hrs here in the UK & I need my beauty sleep.
A bigger hole would solve the too fat of a nut problem, if it does not stick out past the Bakelite door cover outer face or catch the thread chart plate .
Many Thanks
TTFN Dave
As my lathe is an American export specialist military use model, badged as an Atlas, " Made in Great Britain " with a few British made parts added once it arrived in the UK, sent to the UK as part of the marshal plan / lease lend programme in mid 1940's things are occasionally slightly different here & there on the machine. Everything is UNF or UN thankfully .
I'll need check the measurements & if they kind of agree I'll order them later on as it's now 00: 42 hrs here in the UK & I need my beauty sleep.
A bigger hole would solve the too fat of a nut problem, if it does not stick out past the Bakelite door cover outer face or catch the thread chart plate .
Many Thanks
TTFN Dave
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2014
- Messages
- 613
Frank , can you physically measure the spindle nut please. My spindle is hollow with a 3/4 " hole through it & , it looks like it's 1 & 1/4 inch across the threads not 3/4.
The small grubs fit OK thanks
Dave
The small grubs fit OK thanks
Dave