70 C10 resto-mod (was Chevy culture shock)

guero_gordo said:
Only car I ever had to change a pump on was a '96 Cherokee(straight 6) and that thing was a dream to work on. I shudder to think what that's like on 21st Century vehicles
Click to expand...
Two hoses, three bolts, and a electric plug. The worst waterpumps in the world to change were the 70-80-90s American V8s with all of the tacked in belt driven accessories atached to the water pump by erector set brackets.

1667245944908.png
 
Do they locate the pump in a conventional spot, or hang it off the radiator?
 
Last edited:
In this case it's bolted to the lower side of the block, possibly to the oil pan. It is the absolute lowest point in the cooling system.
 
Since power brakes require less leverage, this bolt-on kit solves the problem with a second pin on that intermediate lever, but that raises the booster+mc, so it sits pretty high. Not crazy about the look, but the hood closes and I won't bite the dash every time I breathe on the pedal.
She ain't a show queen, so I'll keep it like this until/unless it bothers me enough to build a custom bracket.
Did not anticipate it taking me an hour to get the old pin out of the pedal lever, so I'm not anxious to crawl under the dash again. In hindsight, I should have taken the seat out and laid on my back instead of doing the superhero crouch next to the truck and working blind.booster_mc_cpp.jpgbrake_booster_bracket.jpg
 
I'll try to move the existing lines to meet the prop valve, if that gets dicey, I'll probably get a new set of lines and run them along the front of the crossmember(lines for front drums run along the back, which makes the soft lines longer and harder to keep out of trouble when you switch to discs).
Instructions are non-existent, but I do like this CPP kit. If you're prepared, you could do the whole thing in a day.
 
Adjusting brake linkage travel was interesting: the connector rod has right hand threads at both ends, so it does NOT function as a turnbuckle, the adjustments have to be done before attaching the clevis to the pedal lever. Kinda moronic.
This is fun since it's trial and error, not terribly easy to get the pin through the pedal lever, PLUS the brake light switch closes as soon as the pedal comes off the stop, so unless the pedal sits on the stop, the brake light will be on constantly.
Being tall, I'm not thrilled about the pedal height, but it's same as before. I'll run with it and see exactly how much travel I need, then think about readjusting linkage and moving the brake light switch.
cropped_bracket.jpg
 
I see you mentioned the brake light switch. The plastic switch body and sheet metal nuts are a real pain to adjust.

I discovered this switch on Amazon and it's all metal and the adjusting nut is so easy to use. It only comes with one nut but you can grab a extra m8x1.25 nut to use with it. I've used this switch on both my nova and my 55. Works way better than the stock switch.

Screenshot_20221126-114554_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
part of my difficulty working under the dash was a lack of imagination. I could have put the pin in from the right and cotter on the left, but the old one went the other way and I didn't think once about changing that :bang head:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top