70 C10 resto-mod (was Chevy culture shock)

[Charles scozzari]

watch the valves when tapping the starter and check the timing mark position for TDC

 

[guero_gordo]

Putting the last brake parts in. I was replacing the rubber hose in the rear and the front connection was frozen so bad, the nut spun inside the line wrench....which kinked the snot out of the hard line because there's a 90* bend 4" away. I snipped off the end of the hard line, clamped the hose in a vise and still couldn't budge it
So now I'll be unbuttoning the 3 different types of clamps to yank the hard line all the way to the front crossmember and then I'll make a new line out of that sweet copper-nickel stuff that all the cool kids are using.

 

[guero_gordo]

Got the front-to-back line made. NiCopp is fantastic stuff and this piece is a series of easy ~15* bends with a short 90 at the back. This stuff almost bends under its own weight at the ~8' length(1/4" line)
Had to bend the "pre-bent" steel lines to meet the combo valve. I'm guessing the line I ordered was for manual brakes.
Not crazy about the line sitting against the booster, but I'd have to pull the whole thing out all the way to the passenger frame rail to cut and re-flare it. I could maybe run it behind the booster with a 180 and come at it from the driver's side.
Either way, I'll have to twist it to clear the dipstick, but I want to Adel clamp it all the way up the right side, along the crossmember and to the driver's side frame rail before I finalize that.
Still need to install and clock shorter soft lines to clear the tires which will require putting the whole front end in the air, and of course I lost the bench bleed kit, but I should start pushing bubbles in the next few days.

 

[guero_gordo]

Order of operations is important.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

That's why they made dwell meters, and there is a slim fit feeler gage for that purpose also. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. If dropping in a new distributor bump the engine over so the rotor faces #1 cylinder with your required advance on the damper. Pull the distributor, turn the motor over until #1 is at TDC, drop the distributor back in, then set timing. A match book cover used to do on the side of the road if needed for point gap, and the hi perf Corvette points can go to higher RPM without point bounce.

Have a Mallory Uni-lite on my old ford, why screw with points when you can use a laser....

 

[pontiac428]

Order of operations is important.

View attachment 445702

I consider myself a fairly organized worker, but I must admit I've done that before!

 

[pontiac428]

Have a Mallory Uni-lite on my old ford, why screw with points when you can use a laser....

Love the old unilite, but why screw with a distributor that's decoupled from the crank by a gear and a drive chain to add slop, when you can go coil per plug with a direct crank trigger? Yes, I delete distributors, they are a very weak link.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

Love the old unilite, but why screw with a distributor that's decoupled from the crank by a gear and a drive chain to add slop, when you can go coil per plug with a direct crank trigger? Yes, I delete distributors, they are a very weak link

I like the distributor on the Beast, 1967 Ford Ranger. I have an engine hanging on a stand that has a crank trigger on it, if it is accuracy I want that is my preferred method, at high RPM you get no cross fire and it is very accurate.

 

[guero_gordo]

Have a Mallory Uni-lite on my old ford, why screw with points when you can use a laser....

I've been tempted to drop in a Pertronix or a Mallory trigger unit. HEI is good, but I'd prefer to keep the stealth look.
Maybe if they came in black...

 

[pdentrem]

It is difficult to beat the HEI unit for spark power and reliability. I am using the HEI module on the Mopar electronic distributor in my ‘36. It has 318 and the spark box started to fail under high temperature conditions. A lot easier to find parts for the HEI than Pentronix or Mallory, used or new.
Pierre