70 C10 resto-mod (was Chevy culture shock)

Ah, then there's the Vortec engines used in the S10's. There was one plug on the drivers side that was blocked by the steering column. It was virtually impossible to remove and even harder to replace. Another plug had to be accessed through the wheel well.

The problem with many of these faux pas are that the engines are assembled before they're put into the vehicle and they're put into the vehicle before the body goes on.

I have run into many of these contortionist nightmares over the years. And not just GM. Mopar, Ford, and Audi as well. I am glad that I am driving newer vehicles now and can avoid these close encounters of the worst kind.

Now, can we talk about tractors? Adjusting the clutch in our eight y.o. Nortrac tractor requires dropping the front end loader and mount to access the access plate for the clutch. Replacing the left brake shoes requires removing the fuel tank in order to access the brake drum. Removing the fuel tank requires removing the fender. Removing the fender requires removing the left rear wheel.
 
if you haven't heard,
Petronix makes an electronic ignition retrofit for delco points distributors, as well as other makes too.
the retrofit replaces points with an ignitor module and a ignitor cap that fits over the distributor cam
the retrofit takes less than a half hour, but makes a world of difference- no more hard starts
 
Things have probably changed since I was in the business, but back then the distributor caps had a little door like this:

You used a dwell meter and a flexible shaft hex driver like this to adjust the points


I'm only 5; 8" and had no problems reaching the distributor, adjusting the dwell, or even timing it if necessary. In the 60's and 70's cars had to be tuned once a year or every 12,000 miles. I would do them on a daily basis, and several a day in the late fall months. Back then a tune up was considered gravy job. You didn't have to wrestle a 300 lb. transmission out to rebuild it, or find a torque multiplier or 4 foot extension to torque the crush sleeve when reassembling a differential.

Having the right tools makes the job a whole lot easier and faster. If you really want a challenge try setting the dwell and timing on a Ford flat head V8. On the earlier versions the distributor was attached to the camshaft at the front of the engine, about an inch or two behind the fan. I can't count the number of old time mechanics that were missing a thumb or finger because they tried to set the timing with the engine running
 
Things have probably changed since I was in the business, but back then the distributor caps had a little door like this:

You used a dwell meter and a flexible shaft hex driver like this to adjust the points


I'm only 5; 8" and had no problems reaching the distributor, adjusting the dwell, or even timing it if necessary. In the 60's and 70's cars had to be tuned once a year or every 12,000 miles. I would do them on a daily basis, and several a day in the late fall months. Back then a tune up was considered gravy job. You didn't have to wrestle a 300 lb. transmission out to rebuild it, or find a torque multiplier or 4 foot extension to torque the crush sleeve when reassembling a differential.

Having the right tools makes the job a whole lot easier and faster. If you really want a challenge try setting the dwell and timing on a Ford flat head V8. On the earlier versions the distributor was attached to the camshaft at the front of the engine, about an inch or two behind the fan. I can't count the number of old time mechanics that were missing a thumb or finger because they tried to set the timing with the engine running
I have that door, and adjusting dwell isn't bad with a plain ol' Allen. Setting the initial gap was unpleasant, but with the detached condenser would have been much easier coming in from the right side. I bent a feeler almost 90* and ground about 1/3 of its width off so it would fit.
 
if you haven't heard,
Petronix makes an electronic ignition retrofit for delco points distributors, as well as other makes too.
the retrofit replaces points with an ignitor module and a ignitor cap that fits over the distributor cam
the retrofit takes less than a half hour, but makes a world of difference- no more hard starts
I've been eying these. Nice improvement w/o changing the stock look.
 
Be happy it is a single not dual points set up.
As others stated, dwell meter and Allen key does the trick. My ‘69 Chevelle had points but my ‘77 Malibu was HEI. No yearly adjustments or sooner. No playing with the advance weight and spring to recurve the dizzy. No points bounce above 5500 rpm. No filing the points. No lube on the shaft and rub block. Still have the test equipment, but it seems the timing light has flashed its last. Oh well, after 40 years I guess I can buy another one.
My next project may call for the use of the test equipment. Changing the intake on the ‘36 Chrysler.
Pierre

7037114F-8EEE-4ABB-8FAC-A9E4F52FBC38.jpeg
 
Chevy has been in the auto business for over a hundred years and they still haven't figured out how to paint a truck yet!

I have a 67 and 69 F100's with original paint as well as a 76 Scout and 80 Mercedes. ALL WITH ORIGINAL PAINT! No Chevy product I have ever owned has had its paint last much past 15 years including my current 2006 Duramax. A good sneeze inside the cab at speed and there is a ploom of paint behind you. What the heck?

And lets not forget about the thin plastic fuel lines on the fuel injection spider in the multipoint FI Vortecs. Try changing one of those on an Astro van with the beam across the top of the engine.

The thing I do LOVE about my 2006 Duramax is the Engine was designed by Isuzu and the transmission was manufactured by Allison! Has ANYONE ever loved a 6.2/6.5 Chevy diesel? LOL!

P.S. I changed my 1980 Mercedes over to a Ford EDIS ignition when I change the mechanical fuel injection over to a electronic fuel injection using a Megasquirt brain. The Ford EDIS is the simplest ignition system I have ever seen and can REALLY easily be retrofitted to almost anything!
 
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