70 C10 resto-mod (was Chevy culture shock)

Some where before the turn of the century all the auto makers were forced to go from solvent based paints to water based paints and there were definitely paint problems with all American manufactures. From what I have seen and from what you are saying Ford worked out the issue around 2000 or so. My 94' Astro shed paint like a snake sheds its skin, but I knew that when I bought it used. I was expecting Chevy to have solved their water based paint issues way before my 2006 model year like the other American manufactures had. I say American manufactures because I never really noticed paint issues coming from the Japanese companies.

Just noticing pickups on the road I see a lot more paint issues with 15+ year old Chevy trucks than I see with Fords or Dodges. I don't really trust Chevy as a company and I would not put it past them to formulate a paint with planned obsolesces several years after their trucks are out of warranty. For cars, I have always owned Japanese cars except the one Mercedes. But a Toyota pickup just isn't in the same class as an American pickup if you want to put a camper on or tow a heavy trailer.

I purchased my 2006 Duramax in about 2014 when gas prices were very high and it had 140K on it when I purchased it. The truck itself is very sound and runs and drives very nicely now at almost 200k. I avoided the Ford 2003+ diesel engines like the plague. I have absolute respect for the Cummings diesels in Dodges but at the time they were using their heavy duty car transmissions in their pickups unlike Chevy using an Alison, like what I would find in a real truck. I know Dodge eventually started offering Aisin transmissions which is a terrific match for the Cummings. But all the 2006 vintage Dodges Cummings in the 140K I saw were due for a costly rebuild.
The paint and rust issues weren't just on American built cars. The first Japanese imports were just as bad. I remember recalls on Hondas and Toyotas because of rust. One of the earlier Honda models had to have the entire front clip (including the suspension) replaced due to rust. There were several instances where the suspension parts broke through the sheet metal and the body literally fell to the ground.

At the time the automotive press was so enamored with the quality of the imports there was little or no coverage of the problem. There were as many or more Hondas involved with rust issues as there were American cars, but little or no mention of it in the automotive circles. They also had their problems with paint. I can remember seeing Hondas of the early 1980's that looked like the paint had peeled off in sheets. A neighbor down the street had a yellow Civic that was repainted twice in the time he owned it. He finally gave up on it and sold it when the paint started peeling off a 3rd time.

About the worst for rust were the Fiats. I had one come into the garage with the initial complaint that the doors were hard to open and close. I opened the doors one at a time and could see there were problems beyond rusty hinges or latches. When all 4 doors were opened at the same time the car literally sagged in the middle and none of the doors would close. The unibody was rusted so bad it had to be taken off the road. The customer contacted Fiat and they sent out a rep to inspect the car. The company quietly bought back the car for $1,000.00.

I later found out that this wasn't an isolated incident. The reps were looking to see if the vehicles were registered and licensed. If they were the company would buy them back. If not they just walked away leaving a notice with the owner that the vehicle wasn't road worthy and the fact that it wasn't licensed or titled. If the owner sold it to an unsuspecting customer the factory had already done a CYA and would wash it's hands of the problem noting that it had been declared only good for salvage.

As a side note I worked as a painter at the now defunct GM plant in Janesville for several years while going to school at the UW in Madison. At the time the cars were undercoated and sent through the roof top ovens to dry the paint. The trip through the 400* oven lasted about an hour. After going through the cooling tunnel they went straight to the finish coat paint booth. The major straight panels were painted by robots (keep in mind this was the late 1960's through the early 1970's) and the remaining parts were done by hand with traditional pipeline fed, hand held spray guns. The cars then went through a second set of 400* ovens for about 2 hours before thy came back down to have the interiors and trim installed.

My "painting" career only lasted 2 years. The company reorganized the plant from separate Fisher Body and Chevrolet divisions to a single GM Assembly Division (GMAD). Since I was a kid and had low seniority I was bumped out of a rather cushy job over to some real nasty ones on the truck assembly line. I learned quickly this wasn't where I wanted to spend the next 40 years. I stayed until I finished school and left when the plant shut down for the annual model changeover. It was a great experience, but not my cup of tea.
 
The Ford EDIS is the simplest ignition system I have ever seen and can REALLY easily be retrofitted to almost anything!
I put a rotary on the Dyke Delta I built, sparked with two EDIS units controlled by a Megasquirt. The most redeeming factor of the EDIS was the limp home mode. If the MS died, the EDIS were timed so that I'd get normal advance, and might not even notice it until I got it home.
 
Back in the day the tune up kit for Chevy included the Allen wrench.

Never used a feeler guage.

Just place the points in and eyeball it, easy to do, bump the starter to check for spark, if not move a bit.

Start up and adjust dwell then done.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
There is a whole video on YouTube about the state of points today. Uncle Tony’s Garage. He believes in points instead of HEI.
Pierre
 
Datsuns car were horrible. One reason 240Z are rare is they rusted out in 5 years. I saw a yellow one as a kid in the mid 70s and the front end was Swiss cheese. A friend had a 210? and the struts punched through the hood! This was in 79.
When the business moved away from Laquer and Enamel paints the quality collapsed. My 88 Beretta, you would put a piece of masking tape on the paint and peel the paint off the primer! PPG made and still does supply most makers here. I still see cars and trucks with the clear peeling off. All makes.
Pierre
 
A good way to set points prior to running the engine is to use an analog volt/ohmmeter. With the coil disconnected, connect the ohmmeter across the points and turn the engine over. When the points are closed, the meter reads zero. when they're open, it reads infinity. When it reads halfway between, you are set at a 50% dwell. If you have a 100 volt scale on the meter, it reads dwell directly. I used this many times on my Ford 8N tractor rather than the feeler gauge. It is more accurate as it isn't sensitive to any point pitting. It also works on any small engine.
 
A good way to set points prior to running the engine is to use an analog volt/ohmmeter. With the coil disconnected, connect the ohmmeter across the points and turn the engine over. When the points are closed, the meter reads zero. when they're open, it reads infinity. When it reads halfway between, you are set at a 50% dwell. If you have a 100 volt scale on the meter, it reads dwell directly. I used this many times on my Ford 8N tractor rather than the feeler gauge. It is more accurate as it isn't sensitive to any point pitting. It also works on any small engine.
I tried the meter, but couldn't get sane results, must have been bridging contacts with my probes.
Part of the problem working back there is that my eyesight ain't great. I had better luck using my phone to zoom in so I could see that there was a gap.
Working alone on these things is a pita too. Tried to jerry rig a setup with jumper cables so I could bump the starter, but mine were way too fat to be practical. I'll probably pick up one of those bump switch thingies when I get a set of SAE wrenches.
 
I always pull the distributor and replace the points then set the dwell with the distributor shaft chucked in a drill press......
 
I tried the meter, but couldn't get sane results, must have been bridging contacts with my probes.
Part of the problem working back there is that my eyesight ain't great. I had better luck using my phone to zoom in so I could see that there was a gap.
Working alone on these things is a pita too. Tried to jerry rig a setup with jumper cables so I could bump the starter, but mine were way too fat to be practical. I'll probably pick up one of those bump switch thingies when I get a set of SAE wrenches.
You may try bumping the starter by applying 12V to the solenoid instead of the large connector(~3 amps apposed to 500+ amps for the starter lead directly). You can use a small wire instead of clunky jumper cables since it carries very little current.
 
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