70 C10 resto-mod (was Chevy culture shock)

Trying a variety of compounds and tactics. Lore has it that the Meguiar's #7 has the magic oils in it to put some life back into old paint such as this (acrylic lacquer AFAIK). I have not seen evidence that the sections I've treated look any different, but I'll say the jury's still out. Loremasters have done a lot more restoring than I have.
I discovered that trying to go with the medium speed on the DA polisher because I think it'll be less aggressive is a fool's tactic, because it doesn't float over the paint until you spin it up. Definitely sticking with the "least aggressive method first" theory though.
Started out thinking it's like polishing a turd, but the patina look is starting to grow on me. Maybe an interim step, since Rust Never Sleeps, so painting seems inevitable.
 
This series has been a fun read. I'm past the point of wanting to fool with cars to get them "better than factory." Bad engine: '62 Corvette with a 327 that got 300 miles per quart of oil, new and never got better. Rust, a very used (150K) Pinto that I put a plywood floor over the holes to keep from dragging my feet on the pavement. Great way to end up with frost bite, a VW bug. Most fun, totally impractical, toy, Mazda Miata with a 5 speed manual that worked like greased lightening.
 
I thought the latest rage was to clear coat the patina? :)
That is what the cool kids are doing. Or... put thinned linseed oil over it, which does what linseed oil is renowned for: cheaply adds luster...and virtually no protection. Then you do it again every 6mo. Actually makes more sense than cc over rust, since both are doomed to failure and linseed is easier to redo.

Pretty nice rundown on the linseed oil method here: Shine Juice, VGG Warning, contains crimes against humanity ;-\
 
If'n I were to put linseed oil on my car, I'd put some Japan Drier in the mix so it cures better and faster, particularly since I'd have to do it outdoors and I'd have dust to contend with.
 
Got a few hours of compounding in when my DA polisher's head unscrewed itself from the motor and shredded its innards. Had about 10h on the machine, but the River is sending me a replacement on the morrow. It's a well regarded machine, so prolly just unlucky.
Never a bad thing to do this by hand for some time, gives a good idea of how the oxidized crap gives way, and how the compound behaves/transitions as the abrasives break down.
 
This series has been a fun read. I'm past the point of wanting to fool with cars to get them "better than factory." Bad engine: '62 Corvette with a 327 that got 300 miles per quart of oil, new and never got better. Rust, a very used (150K) Pinto that I put a plywood floor over the holes to keep from dragging my feet on the pavement. Great way to end up with frost bite, a VW bug. Most fun, totally impractical, toy, Mazda Miata with a 5 speed manual that worked like greased lightening.
Old guy across the street who's madly painting and polishing his umpteenth build speaks fondly of his 327 Corvette experience. To my benefit, he spent a good amount of time playing with a Quadrajet on that motor.
Derek at Vice Grip Garage refers to holes in the floor as "ankle vents", seems to favor old license plates to patch. All rustthrough is called "weight reduction"
 
Some color left on the old girl yet, but also plenty of spots where it's long gone. You can see the bolt holes where I took off the trailer mirrors, each of those is surrounded by a ~1" patch of protected paint that shows more-or-less the original GM 504 Medium Olive. That "silver" on the rear fender was the color of the whole truck.IMG_3557.JPGIMG_3558.JPGIMG_3559.JPG
 
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