820 countershaft repair

John TV

Registered
Registered
Joined
Mar 15, 2016
Messages
238
I could use some advice on what people think is the best way to repair my counter-shaft casting.

I had a chance to disassemble my Logan 820 countershaft that had significant wear. I was hoping to see bushings that could be replaced but on my model, the ¾ inch shaft runs directly in the cast iron casting.

I am still quite new to this hobby and my skills are getting better but still limited. I have another Logan 10” lathe to use and a Van Norman 12 Milling machine and other small equipment to attempt repair.

The ¾ inch shaft is badly worn and can easily be replaced. I was thinking that drill rod might be a good shaft material since it is quite accurately sized and strong. If you have other suggestions please let me know what you think.

The casting however is a larger problem for me. The “non pully” end is still quite close to the shaft diameter and seems quite round when looking at it without measuring.

The pulley side of the casting, however, is very wallowed out with a very visible oval wear pattern with the oval shape being drawn down in the direction of the motor, possibly caused by excessive belt tension and little lubrication. Pictures are below, but crude measurements are almost 1/8 inch of wear in casting.

Now how to repair this? My first thoughts are to bore the holes to a larger size and use bronze bushings of the correct size. The only machined surfaces on the casting are the areas where the holes have been bored. How do I set up the casting to allow boring accurately without line boring capability? Secondly, although the castings are quite thick, a busing large enough to take care of the 1/8 inch wallow would need to be around one inch which doesn’t leave a lot of cast iron remaining for strength. How little is acceptable.

My second thought on the casting repair was to braze the wallowed out portion to a smaller size and use the better hole to guide a custom made cutter (I would make) of ¾ inch size to “bore” out the excess brass material. I’ve not done much brazing and not sure of getting that large a part hot enough with my small torch to get a good braze.

My third thought was to use something like Babbitt with a much lower melting point and fill the wallowed hole completely and then use the custom made cutter I would make to “bore” the hole using the better hole as a guide.

Fourth thought, send out the part to someone with line boring capabilities willing to do a small job.

I could sure use your thought and advice on what you folks might do to repair this part. I’m sure there are many other ways I have not thought of and my limited experience and equipment might limit my options.

John from Minnesota
365589b151160f340f9d6a2b7c7a5c96.jpg

e3c6e5becfba1a7cb160a2118eb8c0ae.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Cold roll is what I would use for shafting. A step up would be stress proof. Drill rod will work fine ,just expensive. There is plenty of material to bore out oversize and bush back to shaft size. Line boring would be ideal ,but it can be set up with the new shaft in the vertical mill and bored close enough. The wear is mostly going to be in one spot . After rebushing it is helpful to use a piloted adjustable reamer to align the bore of the bushing when fitting the new shaft,but it can be done with out one. The fit should be a running fit and if it's a little loose it will still work fine.
 
Thanks for the response gentlemen.

Work holding setup may be a challenge for me. Don’t think I have the vertical room to use any kind of vice. So thinking something sacrificial on the table, then clamp on the very outside edge of the machined surfaces that are perpendicular to the bore. Only have about an 1/8th to clamp down on.

Not sure I have any ideas to stabilize upper bore. Any thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That's odd, the manual shows "0799" Oiless Bushing Logan_LA52_2.JPG
 
I agree I was expecting a bushing too but another owner responded on a previous thread on disassembly that they just had the shaft running in cast iron too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Think I need to order a reamer, a shaft and some bronze material, can play with set up before I get the items.

Looks like a piloted reamer is a bit out of price range so ....

Press fit for one inch bronze? How much interference? 1/2 to 1 tho?

Thanks for all the guidance. You are all awesome.

John


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi Pablo,
Good to hear from you. You are likely hearing the same fireworks I am. Happy 4th of July.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top