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833T & 1340GT Questions

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Jason812

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I have been wanting a lathe and mill since I was finished with school in 2006. After a lot of research, I have decided on getting a 3 phase PM1340GT with the preferred package & a PM833T. I plan on ordering them next month & have already downloaded Mark's VFD drawings to add a VFD to the lathe. Besides the belt on the lathe, what else needs to be changed almost immediately on either machine?

833T Question:
Is the z-axis power feed worth getting? I realize it could be used to feed while boring but am curious how well it works in that operation. Due to doorway constraints, this is about as big a mill I can get.

1340GT Questions:
Is it worth getting the quick change tool post Matt offers and plan on upgrading later or should I just pocket the $180 and save up for a Dorian or Aloris tool post?
 

parshal

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When I bought my 1340GT a couple months back I bought the Aloris tool post from QMT. You won't notice the extra cost if it all hits at once. ;)
 

tweinke

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I think the z feed probably is worth it, cranking the head up and down by hand will get rather tiresome.
 

wrmiller

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This is just my opinion, but when I bought my 1340GT I knew that it was going to be a good quality, accurate lathe. So I decided to not put junk accessories on it and stretched myself (and my wallet) to get the best quality chuck (PBA) and QCTP (Dorian) I could reasonably get.

And after four years I'm still glad I did it. My PBA chuck is the most accurate and repeatable chuck I've ever owned. There may be a better one out there, but I can't afford it. :)

I also spent the bucks for a EL400 (DroPros) machine specific dro with magnetic scales. I like having 0.0001 (diameter) resolution on the cross slide, and can actually cut a skinny/fuzzy chip at .0004" with a good sharp tool. My alignment spuds for screwed on compensators need half-thou or less dimensional tolerances or they're too loose.

Again, this is just what I did. YMMV. :)
 
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Jason812

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Makes sense to just get a good QCTP from the get go. Precision Matthews said just pick out which Aloris I want and they will ship it with the lathe plus machine the nut. I might as well get a 5c collet chuck too.
 

wrmiller

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I have PM's set-tru collet chuck and am very pleased with it. According to Matt, it's made in the Bison factory, but doesn't have the badging on it. Or the price tag. :)
 

INTJ

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I have had my 1340 GT for almost a year and I haven't seen any issues with the belt or with Matt's quick change tool post. Maybe I just don't know any better. I do recommend Dr Mark's control board. I also recently upgraded form a 727V to an 833T. I have both powerfeeds and a DRO from TPAC Tools in boxes waiting for me to have time to install them.
 

Jason812

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I asked about the belt from other threads questioning the reliability. Knowing me, I will probably replace it almost immediately.

Unfortunately PMT only carries a Bison 5c chuck and the price tag to go with it. I might still get it.

I'm convinced that I will get the z axis power feed as well and even though I didn't mention it, DRO's too. I just figured they were implied.

Originally I wanted a 1440GT (still do) but decided to save some money as the 1340GT will do what I want. For that matter a 1236GT would as well. I will take some of the money saved to get the nicer accessories.
 

INTJ

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Just get the 1440GT as your second lathe and you can have two setups.

What is wrong with the stock 1340GT belt?
 

RIMSPOKE

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THE PM-933T Z AXIS FEED IS FAR & AWAY WORTH IT !

THAT HEAD IS PRETTY HEAVY AND THE COLUMN IS TALL .
YOU WILL BE WISHING YOU HAD THE Z POWER BY FIRST THE TIME YOU MAKE IT TO THE TOP .

THE VARIABLE SPEED IS THE ICING ON THE CAKE .
I HAVE USED MINE MANY TIMES FOR CONTROLLED FEED BORING .
WORKS FANTASTIC !
 

mksj

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A great combination of machines at the price level. The 833T the Z axis drive is a big plus and the X axis drive if you can swing it. On my last bench top mill I built both drives, mostly because off the shelf drives were not available, the Z axis is a must do in my book. The X axis drive will give very clean consistent finishes and handy for repetitive milling. Get yourself a high quality vise, I recommend a 6" w/o a swivel base to start with. These can hold a much wider piece of stock and with 11" of Y travel would be what I recommend. I recently picked up a second 6" Toolmex when they were a bit less, it is a direct copy of a number of other vises, it is made in Taiwan. Otherwise consider the Kurt DX6, save a bit if you buy direct with one that has a blem, or check online when they go on sale. The investment in an accurate and rigid vise is well worth it.

On the 1340GT, I would spring for the Aloris QCTP, like a good vise it is something you use all the time. Save your money and buy a bunch of the inexpensive holders sold by QMT, I would not get any of the kits from Aloris OR Dorian. The Dorian QCTP also is very nice, what I used on my previous and current lathe. Their QC as far as surface finish has been a bit variable, but the function of the holder is great. Their holders are another story, they seem to keep changing the dimensions, a real mismatch between the ones I have. Dorian SDN30BXA, the last one I purchased from Zoro with a 20% off coupon is probably similar to the Aloris through QMT. The stock belt on the 1340GT shed rubber all over the place, anything is better. I used the Gates Tri-Power for years and barely showed any wear, others have used link belts. A matter of preference. Going 3 phase with a VFD gives a lot more control. If you go with a VFD, make your machine a single belt speed machine by flipping the motor pulley and using the belt on the larger motor puller to the larger headstock pulley. I believe it takes a BX27 belt, but measure it up as it varies by belt manufacturer.

Only other recommendation is to add a pump oiler for the gearbox to provide more even and consistent lubrication. A number of different ways to do it, but a simple system works well. the key is to get lubrication to all the holes in particular the bearings which are in the far back right corner near the chuck mount.

A DRO for either/both machines (even inexpensive) is a real plus in particular for someone starting out, but also know how to use the machines w/o it. Glass scales are fine, I have installed my own DRO's, good experience and almost always make my own brackets.

A few considerations to look into, QMT sells the Taiwanese Chandox Set-Tru 3J scroll type chuck, might be worth considering. I have the Bison 5C Set-Tru, I use it most of the time, so was worth the investment. A few people have gone Accusize direct mount D1-4 5C, it might be good enough and they seem to be very good as far as returning it if it doesn't meet spec. Alternate is the SHar's ER40 set-tru style chuck.
 
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bretthl

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1340GT Questions:
Is it worth getting the quick change tool post Matt offers and plan on upgrading later or should I just pocket the $180 and save up for a Dorian or Aloris tool post?
I got the QCTP with my 1340GT. It is JUNK! If I had a do over I would skip the "preferred package" on the mill and lathe.
 

INTJ

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I got the QCTP with my 1340GT. It is JUNK! If I had a do over I would skip the "preferred package" on the mill and lathe.
Interesting. The QCTP I got with my 1340 GT has been fine. It holds tools and allow precision cuts.
 

Jason812

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MKSJ, can you elaborate on the oiling upgrade?

I have used Kurt vises in several flavors over the years at work. All the way up to their 8" extra capacity. I will definitely try to find a used one cause they are nice but $$$. I could have drove the 8" to work with what it costs.
 

bretthl

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Interesting. The QCTP I got with my 1340 GT has been fine. It holds tools and allow precision cuts.
Mine wore internally enough that to raise the gibs far enough to install a tool holder in one of the positions the handle had to be rotated counter clockwise to the point I that the handle blocked tool holder installation. It progressively wore to the point where it wasn't worth messing with. I picked up a Dorian and there is no comparison.
 

mksj

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I would clean all the packing grease from the gears, as they can block the oil drip holes underneath. I just squirted some oil in each hole on the top drip plate. I used way oil in the pump, either Vactra #2 or even beter Mobile Vacuoline 1409 (sticks better to the gears), otherwise an ISO 68 gear oil. I used a square manifold and some 4mm bijur tubing segments to distribute the oil, Alan (deleted) who is another 1340GT owner used a round tube manifold and threaded in some tubing segments, others (David Best) made a plate distribution manifold. I try to keep it simple...

If you are using a pump oiler with a 4mm (5/32) oil line then you will need a adapter/elbow to go from the tubing to your manifold. See below for examples.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fitting-Pipe-NPT-1-8-Male-X-Compression-4-mm-OD-Tube-Tubing-90-Deg-Elbow-N-LbK2/163169545854
 
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