833T & 1340GT Questions

I asked David his thoughts on this one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/5MT-Lathe-...er-All-Length-442mm-17-1-2-Inch-/173745215972 He said this one looked similar to his so I bought one. It showed up at the house yesterday. I mic'd both ends and they were the same as far as I could tell (34.962mm spindle 34.963mm end). I apologize for the metric, my 2" mic has a dead batter and I have a set of metric manuals so I used those. I have no idea about the run out because I do not have a set of V's to set it in and check. I can say that at the spindle, I had .0001" of run out and less than .0002" at 10.5" I cannot tell if it is hardened or not but I figure if I take care of the bar, it shouldn't matter.

After what seemed like a never ending exercise of futility, I have the lathe leveled. With the test bar, I had .0006" taper in the head stock. I was able to get that down to .0001" in the 10.5" of travel. I will put the bar between centers tomorrow to check the tail stock. Getting closer to making test cuts.
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Side note, my brother likes to make wooden hammers and made me one with an oak head and china berry handle. I asked him to make me a 1.5"dia x 12" long dowel to unseat tools in the spindle taper.
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Your head was better aligned than mine. You can check runout with the test bar in the spindle - just rotate the spindle while looking at the indicators. Assuming you don't get much variation when the spindle is rotated, I think you're golden.
 
Need tools, projects, work... and the post man to drop off the replacement proximity cable.

Only things really left to do is mount the vise on the mill and some cable management.
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petertha said:
What are you knocking on, the feed screw handle?
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No. The hammer is non marring. I have used it to indicate the vise and gently tap the draw bolt in the mill to unseat the tool. I want a wooden dowel to unseat the dead center out of the lathe spindle so the inside of the spindle won't get dinged.
 
That's what I was wondering. Occasionally I have an MT shank that gets stuck. Specifically my favorite PM drill chuck. I know that the ejector pin is against the end. If it doesn't come out with a spin of the handle (like a bit of momentum behind it) I've resorted to removing the handle & popping it from the handle end with brass rod or similar. I don't want to put extra load on the TS lead screw nut.

Some people have advocated its OK to give the handle a pop so providing release leverage, but I'm not sure the bolt threads on my lathe are up to the task. There is so much mechanical advantage on the screw just applying handle torque, I'm still amazed the arbor shank can stick that way. I've blued it before & its a perfect fit. Anti-seize is not a good option or it risks spinning in the quill barrel.

Lately I have been wiping it with a low-odor paint thinner I use for general cleaning. It has just a hint of lubricity like if you put a drop of WD-40 in alcohol. That seems to be working for me, striking the balance of cleaning the surface, staying put but not getting locked up. I was wondering if maybe regular oil film could 'set up' over time & act like a bit of adhesive? Sorry for the long ramble - peaked my interest.
 
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