8530 DRO install

Brento said:
How hard is it to pop out those oil zerks?
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pretty easy. you destroy it though. you stick a screw in where the ball is and thread it then pull it out, or use a tap extractor.

how thick is that metal for the knee? is that what you are bending in the vise? is it flat steel bar, not sheet metal?
 
I am only assuming here Brento, but I think encoder signal type has to do with the scale and read heads you have installed. For example, on my Acu-rite, I had to select the resolution ie .0002", .0004", .0005". This is not an option, the selection is driven by the scales you have installed.

The easiest way to confirm that you have selected the proper resoution is to watch the display count and compare that to your dials. Move your dials .100", the display should read the same. If you pick the wrong resolution, the count will be off by a multiplier. For instance, if you choose .0004" as your encoder type and your actual encoder has a resolution of .0002" you will read .200" of travel on your display while your hand dial reads only .100".
 
woodchucker said:
pretty easy. you destroy it though. you stick a screw in where the ball is and thread it then pull it out, or use a tap extractor.

how thick is that metal for the knee? is that what you are bending in the vise? is it flat steel bar, not sheet metal?
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It was low carbon steel bar 1/16 x 3/4. Malleable to bend but still somewhat sturdy. I may take the zerk out and put a tube in there and maybe put a flip top oiler on it.
 
Update on the DRO. It is programmed and ready to go. I will be testing it more as i go but it is reading accurately and seems to be fine.

Update on the oil point. I did destroy the zerk taking it out. It did suck bc it was working great but i didnt get a good set up to continue with it. I bent some brake line tubing so it would fit into the whole and then i had a flip top oil cup that pops right into the tubing. It seems to get plenty of oil but it does run out of the hole just a little bit. I think it will work fine but if i need to change it up i will take my scale off and try to maybe get a 90° oil cup into there. Id say this project is done for now and i will see how it goes. Onto tearing apart the headstock of my lathe next!
 
I put the i-gaging scales on my 8520 which sort of covered up the oiler on the back of the table. I found some baller oilers online, but they are all metric, 6mm and just a hare too small to fit the stock holes. I guess they are .25. I do not have gage pins to get an accurate measurement.

On the back of the table, an oiler with a cap would be nice, but I could not find one.

If you get something that works, please post here. I need to replace 2 or 3 on my machine.
 
I think the best place to find the oilers was from McMaster. I kinda made one up and put a cap over it. If i thought about it more. I would have maybe out the scale on the front and moved my power feed box that is attached in the front.
 
I think the best place for the scale is by far on the back.. my scale was narrow, so the blocks I made and attached to the ends, let the scale hang now a bit. My plan was to replace my missing oiler with a stock variety, the OD was just too small. I haven't gotten to revisit in some time. Wife needs a new kitchen. everything i found on amazon and ebay was 6mm. need to go through mcmaster carr.. clausing may have some, but they might as well be made from gold. may of their parts are very pricy.
 
Mine had a dro on it when I purchased it. It is on the front of the table, side closest to operator. I think this has a couple of advantages. It does not limit table Y travel. I would be concerned if the table was up high, can you move it back far enough that it would be damaged if someone lowered the knee without first cranking the table forward?
 
No. I think if i did it again id move it to the front and i would move my feed control box somewhere else.
 
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