8mm Lorch Junior Lathe

[miles]

I thought I would post some pictures of my Lorch Junior Lathe.
I acquired it many years ago from a friends dad who no longer wanted it and gave it to me.
I cleaned it up and repainted it but I need to get a better drive belt, so if anyone has any suggestions I'd love to here them.
It really is a wonderful piece of machinery the craftsmanship is superb.
Miles

 

[macrnr]

That is a neat little machine. How does the saddle move? I seems like much more more than a watchmakers lathe. I would like to see some more pictures showing what the knobs and attachments do.

 

[Suppo32]

The belt you have pictured is a fused belt which you have to cut and heat the ends and bring them together to fuse the ends. They are sold in various diameters on ebay from 3mm and up to 6mm in green poly cord. The green doesn't strech as much as the red does. A lot of watch makers use O rings from either ACE Hardwared or several online suppliers. That will require you to pull the spindle out to put it on. MSC and online supplier sells a round hollow yellow 4 and 5mm poly belt that has a fitting with a round arrow shape head on each end that once the length is cut you push the fitting into each end and it holds the belt together. This works great but watch the ends for worn through spots because when it breaks the belt and or fitting flys out in the room. Here is a link that tells you how to fuse the belt together. It may take several trys till you get it right but you can trim the edges so that it is smooth. I use both the green and the yellow poly belts. http://www.rchipx.com/splicing_lathe_belting.htm

Cheers
Martin

Miles,

If you want the same type of belt, there are a couple of guys on eBay that make them up, whatever diameter and length you desire. I have bought several for a project and they are fast, reasonably priced and sturdy.

Do a search on Unimat Belt.

Steve Fox

 

[Tony Wells]

Can't recall who makes it, but I believe it is Loctite that has an 'O'-ring repair kit and also sells 'O' ring cord on a reel. The repair kit has a cutting jig and single edged razor blade to make the ends square, and a vee shaped trough on one end of the plastic cutting guide to align the material. A little practice, and some Scotchbrite and you can make an invisible seam. The adhesive is designed for whatever material you choose, be it Buna, Viton, Silicone, or any number of proprietary specials. I've made many large 'O'-rings for sealing and never had a failure on a glued seam, and a few used as low hp drive belts too. I'd certainly try it on this application.

 

[miles]

Thanks Martin
I think I'll look up the green belts as the red does have too much stretch.

The belt you have pictured is a fused belt which you have to cut and heat the ends and bring them together to fuse the ends. They are sold in various diameters on ebay from 3mm and up to 6mm in green poly cord. The green doesn't strech as much as the red does. A lot of watch makers use O rings from either ACE Hardwared or several online suppliers. That will require you to pull the spindle out to put it on. MSC and online supplier sells a round hollow yellow 4 and 5mm poly belt that has a fitting with a round arrow shape head on each end that once the length is cut you push the fitting into each end and it holds the belt together. This works great but watch the ends for worn through spots because when it breaks the belt and or fitting flys out in the room. Here is a link that tells you how to fuse the belt together. It may take several trys till you get it right but you can trim the edges so that it is smooth. I use both the green and the yellow poly belts. http://www.rchipx.com/splicing_lathe_belting.htm

Cheers
Martin

 

[miles]

That is a neat little machine. How does the saddle move? I seems like much more more than a watchmakers lathe. I would like to see some more pictures showing what the knobs and attachments do.

The main bed of the lathe has a T slot running along it's length, all the attachments slide along the slot and clamp down at the desired location.
So the saddle is moved by hand along the "T" slot then locked off then you can use the X & Y slides for cutting.
It has a 3 jaw chuck and Tail stock shown above in the top picture ( the tail stock can hold collets or a drill chuck and has a lever to drill with)
A tool post for free graving
and a centre tail stock and Lather carriers, checkout the picture of the small lathe carrier it's only 6mm 1/4 inch long.
I'm not sure what the lever at the back is for but the push button lever at the front engages the drive belts.
Miles

 

[macrnr]

The main bed of the lathe has a T slot running along it's length, all the attachments slide along the slot and clamp down at the desired location.
So the saddle is moved by hand along the "T" slot then locked off then you can use the X & Y slides for cutting.
It has a 3 jaw chuck and Tail stock shown above in the top picture ( the tail stock can hold collets or a drill chuck and has a lever to drill with)
A tool post for free graving
and a centre tail stock and Lather carriers, checkout the picture of the small lathe carrier it's only 6mm 1/4 inch long.
I'm not sure what the lever at the back is for but the push button lever at the front engages the drive belts.
Miles

That is a sweet little machine.

 

[macrnr]

This little guy appears to have a counter shaft. That would mean that you need two belts, one from the motor to the counter shaft, and one from the counter shaft to the spindle. Very nice feature as it slows the speed and increases the torque.

 

[miles]

This little guy appears to have a counter shaft. That would mean that you need two belts, one from the motor to the counter shaft, and one from the counter shaft to the spindle. Very nice feature as it slows the speed and increases the torque.

I'll check it out, I don't have any instructions and have never found much info about it. To date I just have a drive belt from the motor straight to the main spindle.