90 degree V Twin build

Looking forward to hearing how it works out.
 
Well the cast iron oil rings were no help at all. #1 cylinder was flooded with oil after about 10 seconds of run time just like before. I then drained out as much of the oil that I could and started it up.
Both cylinders are firing as they should.
The cylinder head temperatures are within 5 degrees of each other. (about 157 versus 161 degrees)
This would indicate they are doing the same amount of work.
The engine starts usually on one spin when warm and three spins when cold using the thumb choke method.
The engine idles around 850 rpms and accelerates well.
Over 1500 rpms it likes to jump around a lot and must be held down.

I made a video of the engine that is about 3 1/2 minutes long and that is about the max time I feel the engine can safely be run between cool down periods. There was no sign that the engine was being starved of lubrication but I am not going to press it further.
During the video you can me point out the fan belt vibrating violently. This happens at a certain rpm and sets up a loud snarl that at first I thought there was something bad about to happen. I also check the exhaust stacks with my hand to verify they are both firing evenly.

The fan belt and the oil problem will be set aside for now while I give the little grey cells time to ponder.

My video taking and editing skills leave much to be desired so I apologize in advance.


I am going to call this a success for now.
Thank you all for following the project and commenting along the way.

Ray
 
Is your crankcase vented?
 
Yes, Kevin you can see it right under the carb and it is working correctly I checked.
Thanks for the reply anyway.

Ray
 
Is it me or does it move around more with the larger flywheel? It sounds so nice too!
 
The flywheel may not be as well balanced as the smaller one was and the wood base is not much of a counter balance. If the engine was bolted down to a vehicle it wouldn't be as noticeable.

Ray
 
Would it be possible to make a spacer to make a oil sump with a level lower then add “ dippers” on the connecting rods to pick up and sling the oil ?
 
Alcap, the bottom engine cover does has a recess of about 0.350 now to act as a pan to hold the oil. I have tried to set the oil level so that about 0.050 of the end of the connecting rods will dip into the oil at startup. I do believe that when the engine is running the oil is not just sitting there waiting to be scooped up by the rod ends but instead is vibrated up into the crank case and thrown around the inside as a mist. Without a properly designed oil ring with the capabilities to not only scrape the cylinder sides but also return that oil to the crank case via slits in the piston is needed.
Here is an example of a one piece oil ring but it is beyond my machining skills.

zuigerveer orig.jpg

Thanks for the comment
Ray
 
Man, this is cool. Thanks for the write up. Been following from the start.
Chuck
 
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