Hi I decided the next job was the base and the side plates, these are from the off cut of a large beam I
fitted in a house about 3 years ago, all the flanges are varying thicknesses and I am hoping to end with
about 16mm thick pieces. I cut them out with an angle grinder with a 2mm cutting disc. I had 3 pieces the base
and the side pieces, the base I wanted to end up with 175mm by 100mm, and the side pieces 85mm by 105mm
but the sizes are not really important. I put the base on the mill, because I was going to paint the base, like Mark's
I was happy to only face where the side pieces fitted and the underneath, but I couldn't get it to sit flat every time
I moved a clamp if sat differently, so I had face one side without moving a clamp then turn it over set it up not putting
it on my v block where it had not been faced, face that side then turn it back to face the first side again, then going around the
edges moving the clamp out of the way and re-clamping, I was glad when it was done.
When I put the base on my surface plate and ran the clock over it there was only about 0.05mm deviation but I didn't
like all the ridges the cutter had made my biggest cutter is 12mm and the head of the mill is probably not trammed
perfectly, so I decided to scrape the bottom, not bothered about the top it will be painted. I have a surface plate, I found it in a field about
5 years ago it was in a bad state badly pitted and covered with rust, I sanded it down with a belt sander and used it for center punching.
A month ago I managed to borrow a granite surface plate from a friend who uses it for marking out pieces for his model airplanes. You can see it
in one of the previous pic. He's took it back yesterday. Boo!
I decided as my first ever scraping job I was going to scrape my plate flat, I t took 3 weeks every night, no proper scraper and no engineers blue,
I used tungsten carbide paint scraper and some red paint from a toy shop, but it is flat, nearly! So I scraped the base and from the pic you can see
it is nearly there I will do a bit more tomorrow. I don't like all that striping so I am going to do what Mark did and fly cut the rest, I will make one
WHAT!!! I knew this forum was going to be informative and a place to learn new ideas and techniques, thank you for the very interesting replies on SADDLES
pack or other wise, can somebody please change the title of this thread. lol!!!!
Wow....I am really impressed watching you do this great build without a lot of expensive or fancy tools. You even make what you need and do it the hardest way possible. This is truly talent and a passion for what you are doing. To say the least, I am impressed.
Thanks Mark that makes a lot less of a neebie lol. And thanks for those kind words, for me, new to this hobby part of the joy
is making things, and like you who likes making your own tooling I also feel a lot of satisfaction from making tools and anything
really whether in metal or wood. I feel if you put off doing something till you have all the tools all the materials and the wind is in
the right direction you will never make anything.
Now I don't want any of you to laugh at my fly cutter, it is not pretty but it is all I had material wise and I will make a better one
when I come across better materials. The arbour came with the mill but I have never used it because, well I didn't have a use for it
and I don't have a draw bar or at least I didn't have a 3/8wit die to make one with! A small lathe tool and a 3/8 chain sprocket. I had
some 50mm bar but too much turning. That is not the sprocket I use but my camera battery was flat and I couldn't wait for it to charge
I wanted to get started. So I put the sprocket in the lathe and tried to cut off the teeth but they were too hard so I cut them off with the grinder
then bored the holes milled the slots I figured as long as one side of the slot was on the center line in the correct direction the rest didn't really matter.
No actually I bored the side to carry a broken drill sharpened up but it didn't work, then I milled the slots. I couldn't get any angle on the cutter
to throw the edge of the cutter outside the body but for this job it would be ok.
Put it in the mill and let it rip. This time to mount the plate I drilled a hole where the main bore hole will be and I didn't intend
facing this because it will be drilled out. No more moving clamps! I had roll my sleeves down put some gloves, and googles on cus blue
bits of metal were flying every where. I tried slowing the speed down but it didn't sound as good so I put it back up 1000rpm seemed
a bit fast for that diameter but the mill wasn't complaining and the cutter was ok so on I went. changed over to an end mill for the side
and one side was done in about 15minutes. The finish was much better, fly cutter next project. I have to go out tonight so that is all I had time for, till tomorrow.
I came home this evening and wanted to see if there was any responses to my post, thank you Fomogo Mike for your positive response
I am quite taken aback by the encouragement I have received in this project. Mark I had never heard of MacGyver and looked him up on wiki
I must have laughed for 10 minutes non stop!! by some coincidence I always carry a genuine swiss
army knife, but fortunately don't seem to find myself in the positions he does. Please do not change this thread to MacGyver saves the world by making a dividing head. lol
Hi Jdj, nice little quincy x2 compressor, if you ever get that going and anyone needs their tyres pumping up they will know where to come,
nice little project. Hi Atlas ten, I don't have a dividing head yet, finished off the facing tonight and I have 4 nice pieces of metal, tomorrow night I have to
bore the pilot holes for the side plates then make a boring tool for the trunions, I am beginning to wish I had attempting these first and turned the barrel to suit
but we shall see how it goes.
I pondered how I was going to cut the pilot holes in the side plates and the only solution the made a sizable hole was to use the cnc
capability of my mill. I was reluctant to do this because of the backlash in the lead screws. I messed about trying to measure the backlash
and enabled the backlash compensation in the software I have done this before but only made a bit of difference. I decided to go 5mm under
size to give me a bit of leeway but not too much to bore out later. If all went wrong I could make another plate and do it again.
I wrote the code for a continuous spiral into the work 1mm every revolution
with a 8mm cutter did a dry run, clocked and clamped a plate onto the mill, and with my heart in my mouth pressed run.
I watched go round and all seemed well I let it go round once to scribe the circle then wile it was running gauged the approx diameter
with my vernier with a steady feed rate it started to cut into the plate after the cut got deeper and full of cuttings I tried to keep the cut clear with a neodymium
magnet I salvaged from a hard drive which worked ok but got stuck to the cutter a couple of times, strong magnets, all went well and the piece dropped out.
The hole is not bad, 0.8mm over size but only 0.2mm out of round. I did a video but I cannot upload it, it is just the cutter going round for the last cut and the center dropping out. One more to do, then my intention is to clamp the 2 side plates together on the mill and bore the trunion hole through them both at the same time with a boring tool of some description that I don't yet have.
Howdy and welcome, seems you were never a newbie just a wanna be I guess. Your doing a nice job building what you want with what you have. Nice to have a fellow reperpacer ,(use old junk to make new items).Just yesterday the guys next door had to put a new clutch and presser plate in a 12" wood chipper. I'm going to get the plate to use its about 16" x 2" thick, has some heat cracks but I think they will machine out , now that's a nice hunk of steel . The guys holler hey that's a lot of scrap money ,yupp I said I'll give you the three bucks it would bring. Keep up the work , there are some nice machines made over there ,hope you can land some too.
The word in newbie unless you are referring to a 2 horned saddle from the Shetlands. Hi Silverbullet, thanks for your welcome. 2" thick plate
that in a piece of steel, do you have it earmarked for a project?
This weekend the job was to bore the holes for the side plates. Apologies fro the pics still working on the camera. frustrating!!! The boring head thing.
I had some thoughts on this, cutting dove tails was out of the question I don't have the tooling, or the time, I do want to make a boring head but not till I have made this project. I looked at loads of pics on the net and came up with a solution that fitted what I can do with the materials and things I have.
A of piece of 40mm bar, a 6mm cutting tool which I later discarded, and a piece of 16mm bar which I later changed for a piece of 25mm bar from the hitch
of my tractor, needs must! I must say now that I am not over the moon with this design and not sure if I will work, looking at pictures of really nice boring heads on the net is one thing but making what you see is another. The idea is to drill the 40mm bar so the now 20mm bar passes through it and carries the tool, use the 6mm x 1mm pitch hex screw to wind the 20mm bar out to give accurate travel, well we live in hope!
I used the adapter I made previously for the rota broach and a 20mm broach and bored all the way through, I then used a 10mm cutter to cut a slot to within 13mm of the other side.
Having done some sums, realized that 16mm was not big enough for the tool holder took the hitch pin off my tractor turned it down to 20mm drilled a 9mmhole through the middle, this is the dimension of a 6mm square cutter across the diagonals. I center bored the 40mm bar when I trued it up and now tapped the hole put the 20mm bar in the 40mm bat so the lips were flush an center drilled right on the edge, this was for 6mm bar for a sort of gibb strip.
I got the bar from an old printer scanner, it is amazing what you can get out of a scanner printer!
I drilled all the way through with a 4mm pilot drill then decided that drills would probably wander so I put a 6mm end mill through this did better.
Then raised up the 20mm tool holder and cut a 10mm wide slot 5mm deep and drilled and threaded holes to mount a small bar the would be threaded for the adjusting screw. Those rods you get from the paper feeders from a printer are really nice, polished but not too hard.
These are the pieces I ended up with I turned the end of the main barrel to 25mm for my collet chuck, I made a useless indexed collar for the adjusting screw, poor design, the gib dowel I detented so the grub screws would hold this in place while the tool holder moved out, a piece of toll steel I ground to
the middle and put a cutting edge on it, the small bar with 3 hole fits on the tool holder by the small holes and is move forward by the adjusting screw going through the larger hole which is threaded m6.
I recess the other side of the main body, really badly, for the adjusting screw, drilled and tapped the tool holder to hold the square tool in a round hole.
Here you can see the basic idea the 2 grub screws bear down on the 6mm gib rod, it only needed 1,I was surprised how hard this clamped down.
Between the main body and the small plate on the tool holder is a small spring which keeps the tool holder in, loosening the grub screws on the mail barrel
and a turn on the adjusting screw brings out the tool holder, to be honest the whole assembly looks gruesome. I was not convince this was going to work and I had a mornings work would have to be re-done in making some thing else, or worse buying something Ug!!
But the result, for me was a surprise, I would not have believed it, after a few passes I started to mess with speeds and feed rates then got bored with turning the handle and wrote a program to control the Z axis it took a while cus I was boring both plates at the same time, I had to adjust the head after every cut,
when I got close to size, because I have no way of measuring the size of the bore but a vernier I had to move the work from under the cutter try the barrel move the work back under the cutter, cut again move the work, etc,etc, till the barrel fitted lovely,
If any one, and I am not sure why any one would, would like a drawing on this simple contraption I will gladly do one. I am not saying this is my design
but I have not knowingly copied anyone else's, I checked a lot of designs out and came up with something I could make with what I have.
The hole through the main body was not good but with no other was but to drill it, and a few other areas were crude to say the least but it did the job.
Thanks for your comments Mark, Glad you like my progress so far. The boring head design has a flaw in so much as it rely's on a spring to to keep the
main body in contact with the adjusting screw head so it is possible to adjust the cutter out but the tool holder not move but I surmised that I would realize this had happened because on the next cut the cutter wouldn't cut!, I though of another design where the adjuster moved the tool holder directly, or a purpose made adjusting screw with a collar that retained the bolt that way the tool holder would have to move with the threads of the adjuster and not rely on the spring, but for now couldn't see it being worth it. I intend making a boring head so may modify this later.