[4]

Winner A Dividing Head By Wayne

[3]
[10] Like what you see?
Click here to donate to this forum and upgrade your account!
Status
Not open for further replies.

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
Haven't had much time the last couple of days but managed to make the division plate boss. Not much to
tell about this part trued up the brass bored for the worm spindle then milled the shoulder to miss the end plates.
PICT2195.JPG

And that where it will fit.
PICT2197.JPG

the shoulder on the right hand side will be drilled to mount the division plate, which will be about 5mm thick that will leave
10mm left to mount the fingers then a boss for the handle. I think I will make a new right hand worm support with a shoulder
on it's left side then hollow out some of the brass bar I have to make a cover for the worm and tie the supports together, The
worm spindle is only 8mm dia and it might be a bit whippy otherwise. I have some countersunk hex screws for the end clamping plates
so they will still miss the division plate mounting.
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
I was grubbing about looking for something to make a temporary division plate to help make not only a worm wheel, I only need one
hole for that, but to help make some final plates. And I found this.
PICT2203.JPG

A cutting disc for a 4" grinder, never used because the hole in the center in 20mm and doesn't
fit a standard spindle. Fits on my spindle perfect. It has 9 holes of 6mm dia. If I can drill it, not sure I can but it
was cheap so might be soft enough, I can put another 9 holes in it. If my thinking is correct then every 3rd hole gives me 1 degree.
I will try tomorrow.
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
hi Lucknowken, Thanks for your comment, considering the roll of the eyes the Wife gave me when I showed her, genius is very close to insanity!!!!
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
I tried drilling the plate, no problem but the hole position is not very accurate but will be ok for one hole. I have to round off the end plates,
I can get them to possibly 1mm with the grinder, or I can write a program to mill through them to within maybe 2mm, but I want them closer and with a nice finish, so I was thinking of making a boss for them to pivot on, fixing this to the mill putting the end plate on this pivot and with some added leverage rotating this against the cutter bit at a time to bring them to size, does this sound feasible or will me the work and the cutter be flung across the shop and stuck in the wall .lol. What do you think?
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
The man that saved every off cut he's ever produced has never used any brass flat bar, so I will have to make some. I want it for the sector
arms and the division handle. I have managed to get hold of a 0.8mm slitting saw, I ordered it weeks ago with some number stamps. I made an
arbor from some 25mm steel bar, reduced one end to fit in a 20mm collet the other end shouldered to the 16mm hole in the saw then reduced down to 10
mm for a thread, I was going to try cutting the thread on the lathe but I chickened out and used a die.
PICT2209.JPG

I made a shouldered washer to clamp the saw up nice and flat
PICT2218.JPG

I clamped a piece of 40mm dia brass bar on the bed of the mill and started cutting it in to slices, one off 8mm thick and 2 off 5mm thick.
I was a bit of a chore I couldn't cut all the way through the saw wasn't big enough so I had to attack from both sides and moving the clamp from
end to end packing the cut end with my trusty feeler gauges then cutting the other end.
PICT2205.JPG

The above pic I am changing the clamp from one end to the other. Even cutting from both sides the cutter was too small so after a completed cut
I took the bar to the bench vice and hack sawed the center bit by hand, the hack saw blade was a little too wide so I hammered the set of the teeth out to make it flat, it just fitted in the slitting saw cut, you can see the hack saw marks in the surface of the pieces but I have left plenty of thickness for cleaning up.
PICT2207.JPG

Three pieces of flat brass to show for a day in the shop, It's a good job I enjoy this. I will machine the one for the handle tomorrow.
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
I was going to mess with those brass pieces to day but I changed my mind, I wanted to do something else. I got the trusty grinder out and rough cut the radius
on one of the end plates, sanded it up a bit, I have left about 1mm shy of the line for tidying up, I have a fairly large belt sander for wood but I have never
had any sanding belts for it, I have found a supplier that can get belt for steel that will just about fit, I will use that to square the ends down to the line.
Now the head will rotate, I haven't done the other end I will do that when the belts arrive.
PICT2234.JPG

I have been frustrated with the quality of the pictures I have been taking, they all look too dark and grainy, they seem ok on the camera's screen but when I up load them
they look terrible. I uploaded some on the wife's laptop this morning to find the quality much better , then realized that it was a problem with my monitor and they don't look
so bad after all.
Now for some work, I cut the biggest bar that has been in my saw!
PICT2221.JPG

5" dia. I had to weld some 2x2" box section on the back so I could hold it in the jaws of the saw! I had prepared for this cut by buying a new cobalt steel blade and read
Mark's very informative article on saw blade tension and teeth size. I could only get a 8x14 combi tooth size I would have liked bigger but I took what I could get, this is Spain
after all. I tensioned the hand wheel as tight as I could get it, I was convinced this would end in tears, and my new blade would be broken, on the bright side if it did break
I cut the pieces to make blades for my hack saw. But it cut lovely!:)
PICT2224.JPG

No new hack saw blades.! On to the mill and drilled the holes to attach it to the lathe, none of my chucks can take this dia. so I took the chuck off and attached it directly
to the spindle.
PICT2230.JPG

The white stuff is an off cut of a chopping board to protect the ways. So drilled and tapped and bolted straight on the the spindle. Trued up the outside
and then faced it.
PICT2233.JPG

I was on that face at least an hour different speeds,size of cut,tool angle, cups of tea, blue chip burn marks, but finally after at least 30 cuts and a lot of swarf I got reasonable results The best facing I have done to date. Next job is the boss on the spindle.
 
D

Deleted member 31249

Guest - Please Register!
Guest - Please Register!
I still find this work absolutely amazing .
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
Mark considering the work you produce I find it amazing that you find my work amazing, but it is really nice to hear it:)
It seems I didn't properly learn the lesson about sequence of operations! I turned the plate in the last photo because I wanted to but I then had to take it off the lathe to turn the main spindle to size, I turned this so that it fitted my 3 jaw chuck,I had the spindle in the 4 jaw, it fits nice and snug. When I fitted the plate back on the lathe it was all over the place and I had to face it again, :laughing: I then cut the register for the spindle using the spindle as guide, all was back on track, but what I didn't realize is the facing, cutting the recess had warmed up the plate, the recess was dead size,I took the plate off the lathe it fitted the register on the lathe, and went for a cup of tea, came back the plate was cold and it didn't fit, I could not get it back on the spindle or the lathe register.!!! BOO. :bawling: What was a snug fit could not be pulled on to the lathe register with the 3 bolts that hold the chuck on. I managed to get the plate in the 4 jaw
but there was only 2 threads on each jaw and they were not very far into their slots and were skewing forward on the chuck, it took me nearly 2 hours to get the bl***y thing clocked in the chuck, if one axis was correct the other was not the jaws were skewing, tighten one jaw and it would pull forward, I went round and round, taped it with the nylon hammer, untapped it bashed it cursed it, in the end all was true. I re-skimmed every thing and kept it COLD.
PICT2236.JPG

What I should have done was the spindle first then the plate, let it cool down then the final cut, this lesson is firmly learnt! I remember reading in Mark's
build he turned a part nearly to size then let it cool and did the final cut, I should have paid better attention.
 
D

Deleted member 31249

Guest - Please Register!
Guest - Please Register!
[/QUOTE]I remember reading in Mark's
build he turned a part nearly to size then let it cool and did the final cut, I should have paid better attention.[/QUOTE]

Lesson learned....... The hard way. Sometimes that is the best way because you will always remember now.
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
I will remember it! I was surprised how much difference that small rise in temp made. The plate was turned around on the lathe and faced, I think it is still a bit thick and I might reduce it. I made some end float shims
next from a bit of bronze I had left over from a project I did some 25 years ago, I made a 70ft narrow boat which I made from scratch, the prop shaft was from an industrial potato peeling machine and the bushes were re-
worked by a friend of mine and used in the stern tube, and this is the off cut. It is about a mil big on the internal dia but it will be fine. They needed to be 2mm thick, turning them to thickness I needed to cut a grouve in some
soft jaws that were not soft and the blue chips burn!!
PICT2238.JPG

The shims are for the end float on the main spindle. This is the head as far as I have got to date.
PICT2249.JPG

I am not completely happy with the face plate it seems a little to thick and those marks on the rim look a lot worse on the pics than in life but they could do with a bit of a clean up. I decided
to go with four holes to mount the division disc so the discs couold be rotated to keep the no. of hole identifying numbers up right in the three most important positiond of the head, 0 45 and 90 degs.
The shim I have just made goes between the spindle clamping plate and the main barrel but bears on the shoulder of the spindle not the clamping plate. PICT2243.JPG
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
Not sure what happened there every thing has jumped out of order but I am sure you can get the gist.
 
D

Deleted member 31249

Guest - Please Register!
Guest - Please Register!
It looks great so far. Don't worry , that lesson will bite you again. Just this morning , I bored a spacer an put the shaft in it to check size. It slipped right in. I went to get a drink and came back . The shaft was stuck fast . The spacer cooled and locked on. I had to beat it out with a mallet.
.:headache:
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
It is amazing how a few degrees in temp can make a difference. Back from my travels and in to the shop, thought I might make the dividing handle
and arm next, one of my 3 pieces of brass was milled flat and square and a hole for the handle and a slot for the spindle, a bit of a round on the ends
and that was ready for a bit of a finish.
DSC_0072[1].JPG

Next came my first attempt a threading on the lathe. I thought I would try a 1mm pitch thread on the part the is going to hold the indexing arm. A bit of brass turned down to 10mm and then threaded, it didn't come out too bad.
DSC_0053[1].JPG

A hole through the middle then 2 flats milled to fit the indexing arm slot of 10mm.
DSC_0073[1].JPG
 
D

Deleted member 31249

Guest - Please Register!
Guest - Please Register!
This thing is looking great! I am very impressed.
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
I decided to do the sector arms next, not that I need them at the minute I just like turning brass. I squared up one of my pieces of brass on the mill, then center punched on the center line and put it in the 4 jaw chuck and centered on the center punch mark, I only have 1mm each side so I needed to start pretty close to the center of the piece.
DSC_0068[1].JPG

Then bored 20mm hole through the plate them counter bored 38mm half way through the brass.
DSC_0071[1].JPG

Out of the lathe and sanded to shape.
DSC_0077[1].JPG


Then there was 2
DSC_0078[1].JPG

I need to work out how I can chamfer the working edges and drill and tap for a clamping screw, bit of a clean up and they are done.
 
D

Deleted member 31249

Guest - Please Register!
Guest - Please Register!
Beautiful work!
 

LucknowKen

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Jan 18, 2016
Messages
338
Hey Wayne: Mark is spot on. Beautiful work.
Labor intensive, painstaking, beautiful work.
Thanks for the write up, lots of good ideas here.
lk
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
Thank you LucknowKen, You are correct, lot of work but enjoyable.
Today I had a go at the indexing plunger, and I think it might work!!
DSC_0079[1].JPG

The barrel is 16mm reduced to 8mm to go through the arm then threaded m8 then reduced to 6mm to loose the rest of the thread. inside is bored 12mm,
then 10mm flat bottomed to take the spring, I used an 10mm end mill to flatten the bottom of the hole then drilled 4mm the rest of the way through.
The plunger was 8mm printer rod reduced one side to 4mm and 6mm the other, leaving a collar of 8mm in the middle for the spring to bear on The cap is 16mm with a 12mm shoulder then a 6mm hole drilled through. The spring goes between the collar on the plunger and the cap. If any of that makes any sense to any one can they please explain it to me!!
DSC_0080[1].JPG

And it goes together like this, I haven't pressed the cap all the way in because I might not get it out and I haven't finished it yet. Still got to make a knob to make for the end, I have left the plunger end a bit long for adjustment. When this is functional I will make a brass nut for the plunger body
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
The knob for the end started from the same 25mm piece of brass. I wanted it to be knurled but I haven't got a knurler, I thought of making one but I don't have the wheels. I stripped down a couple of cigarette lighters for the striker wheels, they might have done, but the finish would be very fine. So I would have to cut them by hand. I made this lash up on the end of the lathe with my 100 tooth change wheel.
DSC_0081[1].JPG

I have seen other people make these sort of things on the net but they always seem to be a bit more elegant than mine, but it worked ok..
DSC_0083[1].JPG

I used the 60 degree threading tool I ground earlier, and made 100 small cuts, and then when round again just for luck.
DSC_0085[1].JPG

I threaded the end of the plunger and that is how it assembles.
DSC_0086[1].JPG

The cap needs pushing home but I will leave that until later. I am pleased with this, the action is just about right and it feels nice to use. The spring is out of
an old printer, but don't ask me what model I have taken loads apart. Next I will make the knob for the indexing arm which requires me cutting an internal thread, I have been putting it off, I want the knob to have a blind hole, I know it is going to end in tears I will have to think of some thing.
 
D

Deleted member 31249

Guest - Please Register!
Guest - Please Register!
I can't wait to this when finished. What are your plans for the face plate ? Mount a chuck on it?

I threaded my spindle for a chuck to go on and made the inside to accept 3C collets. I can also use a center and drive plate.
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
Hi Mark the holes in the spindle fit the 4 jaw chuck I have so I will mount this and then cut a new worm wheel and worm, then make a new main spindle
using the new worm wheel which can have a much larger center bore, Most of the tooling I have is m3 taper so I will bore that through the spindle, my chuck
bolt on the lathe so I will use that method on the spindle end. The face plate I have started will fit this also.
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
I have just been experimenting with a piece of broom handle in the lathe with a pen in the tool holder tracing the line the cutter would take to cut a 1mm
thread with a 3mm lead screw and it seems the where ever I engage the half nuts the pen in in the same line. This would mean I can cut a 1mm thread and engage the half nuts anywhere on the lead screw and still cut the thread. This is probably true for any thread pitch multiple of 3mm. Could some one tell me
if this is correct before I trash a perfectly good piece of brass.
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
This is the solution I decided on.
DSC_0088[1].JPG

The design is not mine, there is one on this forum by James and several variations on the net. Apiece of aluminium tube on the left, (an old arrow) a rod to go inside,( the float arm from a toilet cistern, a couple of springs and some off cuts. I need to make a locking collar for the for the toilet arm, no I mean the telescopic sear push rod. The push rod moves the sear and the half nut leaver is pulled round and disengages the half nuts. I have done some test runs with a clock on the saddle and repeat-ability is about o.2mm. I will make the locking collar then start the nut for the indexing arm.
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
With a collar fitted I did a test run and got set up for the threading of the blind hole. I did not think this was going to work, I could see the tool I had just
ground from a broken drill being broken once again as it ploughs in to the bottom of the blind hole, but it didn't, it work perfectly, once going I didn't
even need to stop the lathe between cuts. The hole was 14mm deep and I cut a 12mm long thread with out a run off.
DSC_0002[1].JPG


Same procedure as the previous knob and then there was 2 knobs !
DSC_0003[1].JPG

DSC_0004[1].JPG

Next job division plates!
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
The release mechanism for threading I just fitted to my lathe I would recommend it, it works great, not just for threading but for the power feed
too. There is some one on this forum called James that has made a video of the operation, it is worth a look. It also appears that if the pitch of the thread you
want to cut in a multiple of the pitch of your lead screw you can dis-engage the half nuts and re-engage them any where you like and still cut the same thread.
 

wayne.inspain

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
106
what explains bugger bugger bugger bugger better that bugger bugger bugger, I made the division plate with the wrong hole pcd. bugger !!!!! I took a piece of 100mm by 6mm black flat cut it round with the grinder the lathed it true , bored a 20mm hole through the middle, then on to the mill and then spent 15 minutes butchering it with the wrong pcd. After re-drilling it got what I wanted....6 more holes gives 1 degree of travel of the work piece. Getting near to finishing now!! I am not bitter!!!!
DSC_0007[1].JPG

Don't any body ask me what the extra 4 holes are for.!! Bugger.
 
Last edited:

Randall Marx

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 22, 2015
Messages
403
Hey Wayne, what are those extra four holes for in your index plate? (JUST KIDDING!!!!!!!) Been there and done that. :banghead:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
[5] [7]
Top