A little help with my Husky A1S mill

OK, I called Grizzly and talked to a tech support guy. He was helpful but there was a limit to what he could tell me. He can see the part number for the replacement motor on the G0731 machine (8X30) but he can only see the electrical specs. He has no visibility of the specs for the mounting hole pattern or shaft size & length.

By any chance, does anyone here have this Grizzly machine that could measure those things for me? I'm looking into a motor from Grainger but they don't really have any advice for me on which motor to get - and they run from the low 300's to the 700's in price. I want to get it right but I don't want to spend money I don't have to.

Thanks all!
 
They don't tell you on the data plate so you will need to figure out for yourself if this corresponds to a standard frame size:

If it mounts by the face plate it is called a "C Mount", and specified is differently:

Once you have frame and shaft dimensions you can scour the internet, ebay, etc.
 
Looking at the Grainger online site, I find this one and it seems to be a proper match. The 145T frame size matches everything I can measure on my motor and the sealed top will keep belt dust & crud from falling down into the motor (there is a similar motor but it has vents on the top face...)


What do you think? I'm trying to get things back up & running so I can finish my Christmas gift making otherwise I'd spend more time trying to see if I could salvage the old motor.
 
You should be able to find cheaper on ebay, like this:

Just make sure the shaft diameter and length are appropriate, some mills have custom speced motors
 
If your mill motor is rated at 19 amps and you're plugging it AND your shop vac into the same outlet even if you only trip the breaker sometimes, you'll ALWAYS be getting a significant voltage drop. Even a dedicated 20 amp circuit is probably ran with 12 gauge wire, that's 20 amps MAX. And while you might've gotten away with running them both in the past, running motors in a long term low voltage situation tends to have long term ramifications in terms of heat buildup & reduced life. You might try (short term until your Christmas projects are done) running an extension cord to the shop vac & using the dedicated circuit for the mill, that might get you through the present project.
In the interim I would shut down the breaker and check ALL the connections from the breaker to the outlet and take a really good look at the outlet, you're looking for loose connections & signs of heat (anything discolored). Also take a good look at the plugs & cords for the Mill & Vac, run them both individually lightly loaded for a few minutes and feel along the cords for a sudden warm spot, that's a partial brake & a bad thing, but a cheap fix, just need new cord. Loose or bad connections cause voltage drops which causes heat, which causes worse connections, it's a viscous circle. I think you're going to find a loose connection or a bad outlet or plug somewhere in the mix, clean, tighten, replace the bad spot & you're back up & going!
I know more than a bit long winded, sorry about that. Good luck.
 
If it were me, before buying a new motor, I would wire it up to your 240V circuit (change your motor wiring first) and see how it performs. I think you would be pleasantly surprised. As machPete said above your motor will be happier too. Mike
 
While I'm up on my soap-box, I'd replace the outlet with a one hole 20 amp unit to avoid future problems.
 
If it were me, before buying a new motor, I would wire it up to your 240V circuit (change your motor wiring first) and see how it performs. I think you would be pleasantly surprised. As machPete said above your motor will be happier too. Mike
This would work well & probably solve any possibility of voltage drop issues to the mill, your existing wiring to the outlet could be repurposed (with a bit of red marking tape on the white wire), a new 220v outlet, breaker & plug on old cord on the mill and you're cooking with evil gas!
 
OK, I have a NEMA 10-50 220V pigtail coming today. As I mentioned before, I'm not well versed in electrical so my concern is, will the switch I currently have on the machine going to work with 220V. Below is a picture of the inside of the switch (simple on/off - no reverse). If this switch will work, what are the proper connections for the switch and the motor? If this switch won't work, would the one I grabbed a screen shot from Amazon work? They definitely have different connection lugs...
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switch.jpg


switch 2.JPG
 

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