A “many Pictures Few Words” Sieg Super X2plus Mill Cnc Conversion

really nice work
Steve
Thank you for your kind words Steve! Your posts were (are) great inspiration for me.
I have already adopted your saying "The way I do it".
There is so much truth in this!
There is always another way of doing things, but everyone of us chooses the way that suits him better.
Thanks again!

Petros
 
SIEG Super X2PLUS mill CNC conversion

X AXIS


After finishing Z axis I started the X conversion that I initially thought it would be a straightforward procedure. I could not have been more wrong on that matter!

As I stated in the beginning of this presentation my mill has the X1 extra long table that, for some reason unknown to me leaves too small space between the table and it’s base.

I started measurements by making an “oil printout” on paper to record all measurements. That works like this: you apply used oil on the (flat) surface you wish to print and then you touch the surface with a clean white paper. Next you measure and write all measurements on the paper and if you want to transfer it to the computer you either scan or photograph the printout. As simple as that!

X OIL printout.jpg
The “oil printout” of the left side of my mill table.


In my mill the printout revealed a problem that took a lot of head scratching to solve it.

The distance between the underside of the table and its base (the top of the Y moving part, is there a name for that?) was just 19.5 mm (that’s 0.768 inches)!

X stock nut.JPG
A photo of the left side of the table (stock nut is 45x18mm)
X right side1.JPG
A photo of the right side of the table


Removing the table to investigate what modifications are needed

X Left side.JPG
Left side without the table

X right side.JPG
Right side without the table.

X & Y drawings.jpg
All drawings of X & Y to seek possible solutions on the drawing table.


FACTS

I could not find a ballscrew with a nut that small without braking the bank! The matter needed a different approach! I did not like to machine the base (I did not have access to another mill either) so I was looking and looking for solutions to similar problems in the internet.

Stock screw is 12 mm thick
X stock screw.JPG
X stock screw

For some reason there are very few CNC conversions of X1 mills published and most of the conversions I found use the stock screws for X and Y. There was no light from this source!

Finally I decided to tackle the problem in a non conventional way: If there is no space for the ball nut under the table, kick it out of there.

After Transferring all measures to the drawing board I figured out the solution details:

X nut out.jpg
The idea: place X ballnut at the edge of Y moving part

Naturally putting the ballnut there was not a straightforward task. Some modification was needed.

The easy part was to cut the ballnut top using my disk grinder.
X ballnut mod.jpg

As right side is machined 3mm to make some space for the screw I could do the same on the left side in a way that the ball nut fits.

Lowering idea.JPG

The difficult part was to grind the surface under the ballnut (the red area, see next sketch) to make space for the ballnut.

X nut out drawings.jpg
So material from the area marked in red at the above sketch was removed. That was not an easy task using just hand tools (I managed mainly with help from my little dremel).

X ballnut out of Y.JPG
The ballnut under the table bolted at the edge of Y moving plate


The result: The ball nut fits in the gap and has a clearance of 0.5 mm from (as you can see it almost touches) the underside of the table.
X ballnut clearance.JPG
... to be continued...
 
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CONSTRUCTING THE BEARING SUPPORT BLOCK

After solving the hard part of the X conversion the rest was more or less straightforward.

I needed an aluminum block to support the other side of the ballscrew.
Aluminum block.jpg
The blue prints of the block


I did not have square aluminum block but I have round ones so I had to plan how to extract the square out of the round part
Block details.jpg
Extracting the square out of the round
Extract the square.jpg

After boring the bearing pockets the block was bolted into position
block into position.JPG

Until the whole conversion finishes, I need to use the mill. A handle at the X ballscrew worked just fine. I had to remember though that the ball screw had a 4mm pitch not 2mm as the stock screws had.
A handle for manual use.JPG
... to be continued...
 
PREPARING THE STEPPER SUPPORT BLOCKS.


I borrowed the idea of using aluminum profiles for the steppers and I looked around for raw material.

X Y Aluminium Motor implementation idea.jpg
The idea...

Making the motor support

An old aluminum door frame, with 3mm thickness walls, provided plenty of raw material for the support units.
Raw material for the support unit.JPG

Some preparation and planning needed though...
Stepper support.JPG

For boring (as I don’t have a boring head) I had to improvise using an old tile drilling tool
boring.JPG


Machining with a tile cutter.JPG
Tile cutter worked ok as a boring head, although it was a pain to adjust it to bore the required size!
As There was no need for precision boring here, the tool performed flawlessly!


Finally All X Parts In place!

X Final Front.JPG
X view from above

X Final Side.JPG
X side view

X Final Under.JPG
X view from below

That concludes the X Axle


Thank you for reading


Petros
 
Impressive job.Waiting for the finish.Απιθανο φιλε,μπραβο.
Ariscats
 
Impressive job.Waiting for the finish.Απιθανο φιλε,μπραβο.
Ariscats
Thank you my friend. There are two more parts to publish. Y axis and the electronics (power supply, controller etc.) I will publish it in the next few days.
I strongly believe that we should share our knowledge. That's te reason I am part of this community. Ευχαριστώ για τα καλά σου λόγια.

Petros
 
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SIEG Super X2PLUS mill CNC conversion

Y AXIS


After finishing Z and X axes I started the Y conversion. Here there was enough space to fit a 1605 ballscrew with some minor modifications to support the ball nut.


Ballnut before modifications
SFK001.jpg

After "treatment" with my angle grinder
Ballnut transformations.JPG

Testing the ballscrew on the mill base
in base.JPG

Some careful machining of the base needed to fit the ballnut.
Machining mill base.JPG
After hand-machining mill base using hacksaw and dremel, Ballnut fits nicely.
Ballscrew test fit.JPG

Some right angle steel constructed to secure the nut to the mill base
Ballnut supports.JPG

They made to fit nicely both to the base and ballnut.
Ballnut support.JPG

Now ballscrew is bolted to the mill base
Ballscrew in place.JPG


... to be continued...
 
Y BEARING SUPPORT BLOCK CONSTRUCTION


After fixing the Y ballnut to base I needed an aluminum block to support the ballscrew to the front of Y and connect it to the stepper motor.

I did not have square aluminum block but I had a 40mm round one so I had to plan how to extract the rectangle out of the round part.

BlockCuts.jpg
Extracting the rectangle out of the round

Y block.JPG
 
PREPARING THE STEPPER SUPPORT BLOCK

As in X axis I used 3mm aluminum profile.

Stepper support.jpg

As boring head I also used the tile cutter
bored with tile cutter.JPG

The stepper motor in Y axis fitted to the back of the aluminum block
Stepper fitted.JPG

This way the front of the mill is “clear” without protruding parts
Clear front.JPG

Y view from below. You can see the bearing support block and the ballnut
Stepper from below.JPG


That concludes the Y Axis


Thank you for reading


Petros
 
Sorry for kicking this old post, but i am very impressed by it. You did a magnificent job. The idea with the ball screw mounted to the side is very good, and will be copied by me :)
I am curious: how did you bore the holes for the thrust bearings? How did you line up the screws with mounting Blocks ?
And is the mill running? How is it?
Thanx
 
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