Acer 1440g help

Richard
I consider outboard as the side of the operator and IB as the side away from the operator.
Just helps me keep things straight. Sorry if I caused confusion.
I would agree in most situations that a simple shim or feeler gauge check gives a direct and the most accurate reading but in this case the low side sits on the V-way and I dont think that's gonna work. Will have to check out what ratio I get for adding shims under the V-way.
Have seen a formula for that but durned if I can remember where.

Edit: Forgot to mention that this thing still sits on rubber rollers and cant be leveled. Will correct that in time. For now the indicator is my goto tool.
Just had to check...

IMG_0435 - Copy.JPGPut 0.010 under each side of the V-way and each end of the carriag. It raised the carriage 0.014" or a 1.4 ratio with a 90deg V-way.The indicator returned to 0 after removing the feeler gauges.
With that ratio for a 90deg V-way I can use feeler gauges.
 
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Hey...Ive been doing this as a PROFESSION for over 50 years. I KNOW shimming works!! Take those rubber pads out from under the machine and replace them with a steel plates with spot faced holes for the leveling screw bottom to sit in or in many case the machine came with special plates. I'm curious now after saying you don't think it won't work. How long have you been a machine rebuilder? How many lathes have you rebuilt?

I would not tell you how to it if I didn't think it would work. Those you tube shows... I instructed those guys and 35,000 other people to do it the right way. THe OB and IB is not something a professional that I have ever met uses. It sounds as if Acer didn't follow standard ways to build the machine as .024" is a lot. If you think about a slant bed lathe the cross feed isn't the same height front to back so if the saddle contacts on the 4 corners you might be fine. The tool when set on the center it feeds out to the outer diameter (OD) it doesn't matter if the height is the same. Not the perfect way most builders do it, but you will probably open a can of worms trying to fix it if it was built that way from the factory.

Hate to sound crabby, but this is not my first rodeo.
 
If you can't align the bed with a level because the lathe is setting on rubber pads should give you a hint they are not working, How can you twist the bed to remove the taper in spindle if the rubber squashes of the feet? I have seem more people get screwed up using those things. Follow the norm of all lathe builders and use a solid foot plate. You know I was invited back to the forum to give professional advice and not guesses or experiments.
 
The tool when set on the center it feeds out to the outer diameter (OD) it doesn't matter if the height is the same. Not the perfect way most builders do it, but you will probably open a can of worms trying to fix it if it was built that way from the factory.
Thanks Richard. I had thought it would be a big problem . Will leave that one alone.
I knew when first seeing the lathe that the wheels would have to go before much of the work could be completed, but having so very little room I will have to keep it mobile for now, though it's inconveinient.
Till the lathe is down solid the level can sit in it's box.
I've done some work with feeler gauges and shims and must agree thats " almost always" the best way to go. If you check the picture I posted you'll see I shimmed under the V-way as thats the low side. Since there isn't a 1/1 ratio when shimming under such a shape and I can't use a level on it at this time, I hadn't bothered with it before.
Naw, you don't sound crabby. Just a bit frustrated that I don't move forward exactly as you would.
The lathe isn't the most important thing I have to work on rite now. Will get there in time.
 
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