Added another car to the garage. 67 Nova

If its a factory ford 9" they often are induction harden at the spline, i've had to cut down couple. Good insert cuts them just plange in quickly not to burn the insert.
 
Aukai said:
I'll give an Empire P3 cobalt blade a try tomorrow, fingers crossed.
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You have a good sized lathe. If your tool holder clamps a P3 profile very securely, great! I've found that the big lathe is far more rigid than a comparatively noodly P3 blade, and they tend to move about in the holder. I'm leaning more and more toward heavier parting blades because they are stiff enough to handle the machine. Just my two cents on it.

You might be just fine using your favorite insert cutter and just facing the shaft down to length. It's an easier cut to manage if you're worried about it or if you end up in a hard-turning situation from induction hardened spline ends.
 
pontiac428 said:
You have a good sized lathe. If your tool holder clamps a P3 profile very securely, great! I've found that the big lathe is far more rigid than a comparatively noodly P3 blade, and they tend to move about in the holder. I'm leaning more and more toward heavier parting blades because they are stiff enough to handle the machine. Just my two cents on it.

You might be just fine using your favorite insert cutter and just facing the shaft down to length. It's an easier cut to manage if you're worried about it or if you end up in a hard-turning situation from induction hardened spline ends.
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The only time I have issues with my parting blade is when I do not make certain it is truly perpendicular to the part...
 
New update:
The roll bar is in, but not painted, so no real installed pictures, the exhaust is in, but back out for transmission cross member modifications. The car was set on blocks that were a devil to level due to a swail in the garage floor. The pinion angle could not be set with shims because the perch bolts are too short, so the lowering perches were sectioned by cutting the welds on 3 sides, and then opened up to get the proper angle then tacked back in place for final welding out of the car.

The next project was to lengthen the passenger side wheel housing in the back, the driver side is long in the 67 because of the side fill for gas, but the passenger side is short. I will be running 10.5x28 slicks, the housing is 1/2" back on the springs for front fender clearance, but slicks grow, and it looked tight to the back, so we stretched it another 1 1/2. Now everything will be mocked up, a new Mark Williams drive shaft is ordered, the drive shaft loop will be installed when it gets here, then it will all come back out for cleaning, seam sealing, and painting, then re assembled. It still needs fuel lines, brake lines, E brake cables for the rear discs, and electrical.
The bead lock wheels will not pass reconstruction inspection here, so I added the new 295 MTs, and new rally wheels



 
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Thank you, the center caps, and the trim rings are NOS. I don't care for the early original Corvette trim rings if anyone knows a purist that needs them, I paid 250.00 each, the boxes fell apart, so I don't have those.
 
Aukai said:
New update:
The roll bar is in, but not painted, so no real installed pictures, the exhaust is in, but back out for transmission cross member modifications. The car was set on blocks that were a devil to level due to a swail in the garage floor. The pinion angle could not be set with shims because the perch bolts are too short, so the lowering perches were sectioned by cutting the welds on 3 sides, and then opened up to get the proper angle then tacked back in place for final welding out of the car.

The next project was to lengthen the passenger side wheel housing in the back, the driver side is long in the 67 because of the side fill for gas, but the passenger side is short. I will be running 10.5x28 slicks, the housing is 1/2" back on the springs for front fender clearance, but slicks grow, and it looked tight to the back, so we stretched it another 1 1/2. Now everything will be mocked up, a new Mark Williams drive shaft is ordered, the drive shaft loop will be installed when it gets here, then it will all come back out for cleaning, seam sealing, and painting, then re assembled. It still needs fuel lines, brake lines, E brake cables for the rear discs, and electrical.
The bead lock wheels will not pass reconstruction inspection here, so I added the new 295 MTs, and new rally wheels
Click to expand...
That is sweet, nice car....
 
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