Advice needed on ideal large-diameter drills for 304 SS

A vendor ? :grin: Maybe I should be , but I'm just an owner/hoarder over the years that is downsizing . I've got drills . As Jim says , you want split points .
Yeah, I've seen some forums where small companies will have an account and offer products. But guess I was right about tool collector. Do you happen to have a 3/4, 135-degree cobalt drill?

Thx for the link Jim.

Any reason to not turn down the shank of a drill so it can fit the drill chuck? From what I understand should be fine w/ carbide but can hit issues if getting close to hardened material near flutes. Or maybe I should get an tabbed, M3 ER40 collet holder...any excuse for a new tool
 
Any reason to not turn down the shank of a drill so it can fit the drill chuck? From what I understand should be fine w/ carbide but can hit issues if getting close to hardened material near flutes. Or maybe I should get an tabbed, M3 ER40 collet holder...any excuse for a new tool

I do that as needed. Normally the shanks are much softer than the flutes, even on the cobalt bits. An ERxx holder is a great way to hold larger tool bits.
 
There are reduced shank 3/4" cobalt drills, I have the Norseman and they work well. Other possibility is a carbide tipped annular cutter.
 
I've got drills of all kinds . No imports unfortunately . Union Butterfield and such . Taper shank or S&D . Chipbreakers , thru the spindle coolant , carbide faced , the list goes on . If you look on the misc items for sale , I think I have them on there for $8 or so . Get them off my Foosball table ! :grin:

#1 and #2 above are junk . If you plan on running these drills in a lathe your shank should have flats or be the 3MT you need . Either that or ruin your drill chuck .
 
If you go with a morse taper drill, be sure to clean all oil and debris from the taper on the drill and inside the tailstock ram. When you insert the drill into the tailstock taper, gently spin it as you go in to help the taper center in the bore and then seat the drill with a wood block and a mallet or hammer. Use a firm tap to seat it well. If the drill slips and spins it will chew up the tailstock taper so take the time to do it right. If you do use a drill chuck for some reason, seat it the same way. If a big drill grabs it will apply a LOT of force to that morse taper.
 
I've got drills of all kinds . No imports unfortunately . Union Butterfield and such . Taper shank or S&D . Chipbreakers , thru the spindle coolant , carbide faced , the list goes on . If you look on the misc items for sale , I think I have them on there for $8 or so . Get them off my Foosball table ! :grin:

I didn't see any posts from you for drills; will PM you.

Thanks all for the advice - I know exactly what I'd like to get for the job now.
 
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