Advice on Monarch 10EE and Bridgeport Series 1 acquisition

[Beckerkumm]

What Rabler said. Get the machine running. You will find things that need to be sorted out. Some will cost money, some just work but to really restore a lathe you need a working lathe and mill. I rehabbed my first lathe entirely ass backwards and it cost more than it should. I've found that most of my machine restores follow the same pattern. The first one is more about learning than saving. A10EE that looks like the one in the picture above still needs to turn somewhere near the precision of when new or you spend a lot of hours on a machine that still needs a tear down and bed work. If you get the monarch running enough to judge it and at the same time learn how to compensate for its wear, you will be way ahead of the curve. At that point you can decide whether or not to jump into the deep end of the pool. My Smart Brown 1024 is a wonderful old lathe with state of the art Mark Jacobs controls and turns to within .001 but has no vibration or chatter, but my second lathe ( CVA ) will turn to .0002 over the same distance and cost less in the end. The first machine taught me how to assess the second. Dave

 

[Gnpenning]

Like everyone else I'm glad to hear that you have them tied up. Lucky you.

I don't know if you mentioned how far from home these are??

Do you have a flat bed trailer or other means to haul yourself?

Depending on your answers renting a tele handler that you can road between locations or rent at both ends is an option.

A wrecker with a heavy boom is another option. Many different ways to make it happen if you don't have a rigger option.

Pictures, please

 

[Shiseiji]

So if i go the RPC route, what HP should i be looking at? I don't plan on running the mill and lathe at the same time. Also If i went the RPC route, would it be best to run the mill on the RPC too? The mill uses belts (not 100% sure on this), is a VFD that nice to have for speed control?

Yes, even if the mill has step pulley, a gazillion parts have been made without exact perfect rpm. 2X the required HP is recommended. I purchased a 10hp from North American off eBay. Was cheaper than their web site, free vibration dampers & shipping. I put a proper switch, double pole, double throw for 220 between the main box and the RPC, a locking plug, and oil resistant 4 conductor wire to the lathe. I use the same plug on my small lathe with a 3ph motor and just plug in what ever I'm using.

 

[Macca]

Yes, even if the mill has step pulley, a gazillion parts have been made without exact perfect rpm. 2X the required HP is recommended. I purchased a 10hp from North American off eBay. Was cheaper than their web site, free vibration dampers & shipping. I put a proper switch, double pole, double throw for 220 between the main box and the RPC, a locking plug, and oil resistant 4 conductor wire to the lathe. I use the same plug on my small lathe with a 3ph motor and just plug in what ever I'm using.

Kinda lost me there when you started modifying the RPC...

 

[Macca]

Like everyone else I'm glad to hear that you have them tied up. Lucky you.

I don't know if you mentioned how far from home these are??

Do you have a flat bed trailer or other means to haul yourself?

Depending on your answers renting a tele handler that you can road between locations or rent at both ends is an option.

A wrecker with a heavy boom is another option. Many different ways to make it happen if you don't have a rigger option.

Pictures, please

These are within 10 miles from home. I have a triple axle car hauler, tandem gravity tilt, and a tandem utility trailer. Maybe use Gravity tilt with a come along? (Im thinking i could unload easier this way.)

Currently what i am thinking is -- using a forklift to put them on strong pallets, (Is this a good idea?) secure them to the pallets, move them to the ledge... get a different forklift, and use that on ground level to pick them up and put them on trailer, then rig them up on trailer and drive.

 

[matthewsx]

That's just the setup he did to install it. Don't worry, we're here for you.

As long as you post pictures

 

[matthewsx]

These are within 10 miles from home. I have a triple axle car hauler, tandem gravity tilt, and a tandem utility trailer. Maybe use Gravity tilt with a come along? (Im thinking i could unload easier this way.)

Currently what i am thinking is -- using a forklift to put them on strong pallets, (Is this a good idea?) secure them to the pallets, move them to the ledge... get a different forklift, and use that on ground level to pick them up and put them on trailer, then rig them up on trailer and drive.

If you've never done this before it's more of a challenge than it seems at first glance.

When I moved my Bolton 13x40 I asked for help doing it here on the forum. I've moved plenty of big things before but nothing so dense and top heavy. Two guys showed up with experience and tools, I rented a drop deck trailer and had an engine hoist. Bear in mind this thing was half the weight of a 10EE and it had already been dropped which is how I know how tragic that can be.

It was still a big challenge but it definitely would have been easier if I still had my forklift. I've moved a few machines since then and it does get easier each time but there's still a big relief when the move is done and the machine is in place.

If you're determined to do it yourself at least reach out to the forum for someone experienced who can help. If nothing else it's great to have someone to talk over each move with before you do it. I'm not gonna speculate on which trailer will be best, just expect you will run into unforeseen circumstances and you will have to overcome challenges you would never have thought of.

You move these things with your mind, not your muscles....


John

 

[extropic]

These are within 10 miles from home. I have a triple axle car hauler, tandem gravity tilt, and a tandem utility trailer. Maybe use Gravity tilt with a come along? (Im thinking i could unload easier this way.)

Currently what i am thinking is -- using a forklift to put them on strong pallets, (Is this a good idea?) secure them to the pallets, move them to the ledge... get a different forklift, and use that on ground level to pick them up and put them on trailer, then rig them up on trailer and drive.

Trying to put them on pallets (not certain what you mean by "strong") is a waste of time, IMO.
Instead, get at least 4 each 4x4 x 4 foot long lumber and use at least 1/2" diameter bolts to attach, 2 per machine, at the holes through the mill base (parallel to X axis) and through leveling foot holes in the lathe pedestals (perpendicular to the lathe bed). The 4 foot length timbers will serve to resist tipping those top heavy machines.

As has been suggested, lift the machines from above using appropriate lifting straps. Use additional ratchet straps as required to ensure that the machine cannot invert. For instance, if you lift with the strap attached to the bed, you may be lifting from below the machine's center of Mass. In addition to the lifting strap(s), a ratchet strap behind the chuck and another around the tailstock, up to the lifting equipment, should prevent inversion.

 

[FOMOGO]

Do you have a winch on on any of your trailers? I have a 12k on mine (they can be had fairly cheap) and have used it to load a 9k mill, along with several large lathes, one at 10k, with no issues. Just go slow, and think out every move. If you have a wooden deck lag bolt it right to the deck, plus straps, or chains and binders. If using chains be carefull with placement on the machines. I generally include a floor jack, bottle jack, spud bar, and some sections of heavy wall pipe in my supplies. Have added a toe jack and machine skates, which are a game changer. Congrats on the score, and smooth sailing on the move. Mike

 

[Gnpenning]

10 miles as you know is to far to road a tele handler or anything else for lifting.

When I bought my mill (Cincinnati) the seller made a custom pallet that was very well built. He was going to turn the head upside down. Since I was a little worried still about it being top heavy and my equipments ability to unload I requested we remove it. 2 nuts/bolts and wires. Turned out I didn't need to get the weight down but the piece of mind was well worth it. He lived down a dirt road that left a lot to be desired, plus a windy road for most trip. The pallet made it easy to move after it was on the ground with a pallet jack. Tools you have, space to work along with headroom will dictate your options.

My Enco lathe was loaded with a shop crane and unloaded with my loader. It was a piece of cake, of course it is not in the same class as your Monarch.

I only had help when I picked them up. With the mill on the pallet and the head on another I used my forks to unload both. I did strap the mill to the lift.

With the 3 axle trailer you might be able to haul a forklift to both sites? Do know your trailers weight ratings.

Checking for members here that can help is a great idea. No cost for possibly a huge return. As others have mentioned go slow and think things thru. Have plenty of heavy straps to secure your load. Overkill and caution are your friend.

Don't forget to get everything that goes with them. Might be best to load those items first to burn off some nervous energy?