Advise on a Civil war cannon model

[toad1163]

I have started a build on a replica 12 pound civil war cannon [my first] similar to the one in the enclosed picture. So far the statistics are ;

20 inch steel barrel , 5/8 ths smooth bore
Black Walnut woodwork, brass attachments
16 inch steel rim wheels [ dished if I can]
Used as a signal cannon [Black powder]

I have a set of basic free drawings from the internet and will post some pictures as soon as I have some that are worthy of posting. Going over my drawings and looking at pictures has brought up some questions. I see several chains on this plan . Some attached to smaller trunnion parts that I would think would keep them from getting lost. However, what was the chains under the cannon for? I am guessing to attach to anchor points to keep it in place when firing . The 5/8 ths bore was chose because it was the already in the steel blank that I am turning so just some internal polishing and that part is done. The plans I have show the barrel tapered at both ends. More so on the muzzle but its widest section is at the trunnions. After looking at pictures of napoleon cannons, I do not see any with a tapered breach. [which to me makes sense] it seems that the breach end would want to be the largest diameter. Any thoughts?

Also while turning the barrel I wondered , Why is the muzzle flared? Perhaps it had to do with the forging/casting process ? And what was the coil of rope on the tongue used for? I am sure other questions will come up as I the build goes on . Thanks in advance for any input

 

[MontanaLon]

The chains were to keep the wheels from turning when fired. The gun would roll back to the limit of the chain and could then be rolled forward to get it pointed in generally the right direction. The rope was for moving the cannon when there wasn't time to hitch to a limber or caisson and a team of horses, mules or oxen.

The muzzle bell was meant to strengthen the barrel as they tended to split at the muzzle due to casting imperfections. Many later guns had banded barrels for the same reason.

I suspect the tapering at the breach end of the replicas has more to do with the trunnions not being cast in and needing extra diameter there to allow them to be fitted by drilling into the walls of the tube. I don't recall ever seeing an actual original cannon that tapered toward the breech end. Most of them are significantly thicker at the breech end than they are at the trunnion.

 

[toad1163]

The chains were to keep the wheels from turning when fired. The gun would roll back to the limit of the chain and could then be rolled forward to get it pointed in generally the right direction. The rope was for moving the cannon when there wasn't time to hitch to a limber or caisson and a team of horses, mules or oxen.

The muzzle bell was meant to strengthen the barrel as they tended to split at the muzzle due to casting imperfections. Many later guns had banded barrels for the same reason.

I suspect the tapering at the breach end of the replicas has more to do with the trunnions not being cast in and needing extra diameter there to allow them to be fitted by drilling into the walls of the tube. I don't recall ever seeing an actual original cannon that tapered toward the breech end. Most of them are significantly thicker at the breech end than they are at the trunnion.

Thank you for the reply, I have decided vary from the plans I have, and taper this barrel in one direction only. Hopefully I will have some pictures of it to post this evening

 

[derf]

I asked the same questions when I build my first cannon. I actually used a set of war department prints to build a 1/2 scale replica. The prints mostly depicted an 1847 6 pounder, and there were a few differences for the 12 pounder. By sheer coincidence, my wife and I were on a road trip and stumbled into a re-enactment at the 139th anniversary of the battle of Shiloh. This wasn't a re-enactment per say, but they did put on an artillery demonstration. There was an outfit from PA that had 4 - 6pounders, and 2 -12 pounders, and all the associated equipment. After the demo, I spoke with one guy from the outfit and took lots of measurements from the 12 pounders. The barrels were original barrels, all bronze. He told me that all the 12 lb barrels were bronze, with the exception of some of the confederate barrels were made from cast iron towards the end of the war, because bronze was getting scarce. Of the 2, one barrel had a muzzle swell, the other was a straight taper. When asked why, he replied that the one with the swell was a Union gun, the other was Confederate. He stated that the swell was purely cosmetic, and the Rebs saved material by not using the flared muzzle. Both barrels were stamped on the muzzle with a date and weight, and the confederate barrel was 84 lbs lighter that the 1,262 lb Union version. The barrel were cast solid, then bored.
I did ask about the chains and assumed that kept the gun in battery, but was quickly refuted. He stated that the chains were no more than a "parking brake" when not in action, and shooting the gun with the chains through the spokes would actually break the spokes because of the tremendous recoil. "What you've seen in the demonstration we just done, is firing 1 lb. of black powder with a lb. of flour, just for effect. If we had actually loaded an artillery shell or solid shot, the recoil is very violent. The wheels actually come off the ground about a foot, and the trail bounces up about 3 feet and the whole carriage rolls back over 10 feet", he stated very emphatically.
I asked a few questions about the carriage, because the the prints I have for the 6 pounder calls for a #1 carriage, the 12 pounder uses a #2 carriage. The main difference is the trail is wider on the #2. The carriages were built from red oak, sealed with linseed oil and painted OD green. Towards the end of the war, when the confederates were running out of resources, they only sealed with the oil and skipped the paint.

I built this 1/2 scale back in 2001. The barrel is cast iron with a DOM steel sleeve cast in. It's a 2-5/16" bore, and the barrel alone weighs 125 lbs.

 

[toad1163]

I asked the same questions when I build my first cannon. I actually used a set of war department prints to build a 1/2 scale replica. The prints mostly depicted an 1847 6 pounder, and there were a few differences for the 12 pounder. By sheer coincidence, my wife and I were on a road trip and stumbled into a re-enactment at the 139th anniversary of the battle of Shiloh. This wasn't a re-enactment per say, but they did put on an artillery demonstration. There was an outfit from PA that had 4 - 6pounders, and 2 -12 pounders, and all the associated equipment. After the demo, I spoke with one guy from the outfit and took lots of measurements from the 12 pounders. The barrels were original barrels, all bronze. He told me that all the 12 lb barrels were bronze, with the exception of some of the confederate barrels were made from cast iron towards the end of the war, because bronze was getting scarce. Of the 2, one barrel had a muzzle swell, the other was a straight taper. When asked why, he replied that the one with the swell was a Union gun, the other was Confederate. He stated that the swell was purely cosmetic, and the Rebs saved material by not using the flared muzzle. Both barrels were stamped on the muzzle with a date and weight, and the confederate barrel was 84 lbs lighter that the 1,262 lb Union version. The barrel were cast solid, then bored.
I did ask about the chains and assumed that kept the gun in battery, but was quickly refuted. He stated that the chains were no more than a "parking brake" when not in action, and shooting the gun with the chains through the spokes would actually break the spokes because of the tremendous recoil. "What you've seen in the demonstration we just done, is firing 1 lb. of black powder with a lb. of flour, just for effect. If we had actually loaded an artillery shell or solid shot, the recoil is very violent. The wheels actually come off the ground about a foot, and the trail bounces up about 3 feet and the whole carriage rolls back over 10 feet", he stated very emphatically.
I asked a few questions about the carriage, because the the prints I have for the 6 pounder calls for a #1 carriage, the 12 pounder uses a #2 carriage. The main difference is the trail is wider on the #2. The carriages were built from red oak, sealed with linseed oil and painted OD green. Towards the end of the war, when the confederates were running out of resources, they only sealed with the oil and skipped the paint.
View attachment 306092
I built this 1/2 scale back in 2001. The barrel is cast iron with a DOM steel sleeve cast in. It's a 2-5/16" bore, and the barrel alone weighs 125 lbs.

WOW that sounds real impressive , so every time the cannon was shot they had to chase it? or did they overcome the recoil another way?

 

[toad1163]

I got the barrel roughed in today decided to make it 16 inches overall. Also attached the pictures of the blank that I started with . So far so good , I am planning to weld the trunnion pivot points . I plan to build a jig to hold them square and true. It looks like they attach midway from breech to muzzle and centered on the diameter . this would make the breech slightly heaver , makes sense. Any advise on ignition? Cannon fuse, or FFFF powder like my flintlock?

 

[dulltool17]

I would not use ffffg. Burns way too fast! I had a .58 call and used ffg. I would use the same for this.

 

[toad1163]

I would not use ffffg. Burns way too fast! I had a .58 call and used ffg. I would use the same for this.

Thanks if I could ask what are you using for the main charge? FF also? and how much for a good report?

 

[dulltool17]

Mine was a percussion carbine. Ffg was the main charge. For cannon, use ffg for main and ffffg for priming powder. You may want to experiment, carefully!

 

[toad1163]

Just a update. Been kinda slow building . I thought I would post a few pictures of what I have so far . The frame is Black Walnut , The wheel hubs are Mahogany . spokes are Black Walnut and Maple The rim/tires are Maple plywood . I need to dress it up a bit and will post some more pictures when it is done.