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Align drive install on PM949

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Kamloopsendo

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I'm stuck installing an Align drive on the Z axis of my PM949. I don't know how to remove this Black object from the shaft and don't want to risk damaging anything while I experiment. I've already loosened the white ring that covers the bearing but the Black shaft does not want to come free.

Z axis shaft.jpg

Hopefully one have you will have already figured this out and be able to help me out. Thanks in advance for the help.
Alex
 

davidpbest

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Yes, I have been right where you are, scratching my head how to remove the black collar to install the Align power feeder on the Z-axis on my PM935. Here's what I can tell you.

That black collar is threaded onto the shaft that rotates - circled in green here:
IMG_2667.jpg

I wasn't sure if the bushing was pressed on, if there was a cross-pin securing it, or if it was threaded, so I decided to remove the entire assembly and deal with it on the bench. The end of that shaft that turns has a ball bearing assembly that is slip-fit into a mating hole in the knee casting. You can see photos of that here:

IMG_2669.jpg

The end of the shaft has a pinion gear (keyed to the shaft and secured with a screw into the end of the shaft) which is smaller in diameter than the hole in the casting for the bearing:

IMG_2668 (1).jpg

I put a slide hammer onto the end of the shaft, and with a few sharp blows pulling the shaft outward from the knee, the bearing slipped out of the hole in the casting and I took the entire assembly to the bench to figure things out. What I discovered is that the black bushing is threaded and locked in place onto the shaft with something like Lock-tite. I put the shaft in a vise and went after that bushing with Channel-locks and couldn't get enough of a grip on it to budge it loose. So I put a torch on the bushing and heated it up slightly and then applied a monkey wrench to the bushing as shown here, and it came loose (it is normal right-hand threaded):

IMG_2694.jpg

I have to say that whoever put that bushing onto the shaft at the factory wanted to make sure it never came loose - it's on there goodentite and locked with some kind of seizing material. But I did get it off and didn't damage anything. Reinstalling the shaft was as simple as lightly tapping on the end of the shaft to re-seat the bearing into the hole in the casting near the knee elevation screw.

You might be able to get that bushing loose from the shaft if you figure a way to lock the shaft from turning and then using a toothed wrench on the bushing. But if I had to do this over again, I would still pull the entire assembly and take it to the bench and use a vise to grip the shaft.

If you'd like to see all that I went through to install the Align feeders on each of the three (X, Y, Z) axis, it's all documented with photos and videos, and each photo has a detailed description if you click on the photo: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmoK65ZQ

Hope this helps.

IMG_2668.jpg
 

[X]Outlaw

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Hey Alex,

No need to remove the entire assembly, at least I didn't have to. Slide on the castle nut and make sure it engages the key in the shaft, use the knee handle on that nut to hold it in place. Then use a monkey wrench on the collar. It takes a bit of force but it comes of.

I to was stumped on how to remove that part when I did my install. The method above is how Matt advised me to do it and it worked like a charm.

Chevy
 

Kamloopsendo

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Got the same advise Chevy (from Matt) and Thanks David for responding so quick, I may have to use David's approach as in trying to slide the Castle Nut back on I dislodged the key and pushed it back. Gonna try to put it back in place and try the simple approach, if not David's approach will work, I just don't like using a slide hammer to remove a bearing I plan to reuse although in this case the number of turns that bearing will get make that concern largely academic I suppose. I'll let you guys know how it works out and Thanks to both of you.
 

Kamloopsendo

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Worked great Chevy, put the key back in the Keyway and used the clutch to twist the shaft and vice grips to hold the outside of the offending black piece. An David, thanks again, I very nearly had to go that route which does sound simple enough once you know what's going on in there.
 

Kamloopsendo

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As a follow up to ideas I got from Chevy, Mark Jacobs and KiwiCanuck I copied Mark's design for the ring light and tach mount which have worked out beautifully.

289287


Also mounted the FogBuster as per Chevy's approach which has worked out well although frankly I get an Aerosol despite their claims!

289292

Stolen from another friend is a cheap very adaptable screen made from some free scrap "Plexiglass" I was able to scrounge. The screens pop on and off easily and dramatically reduce the splatter and debris clean up. Used some old rubber to cover the screw on the vise and made a couple of small aluminum bushings to allow the plexiglass to pop on and off the vise effortlessly.


289288


289289



Control panel I did as per Chevy's thoughts and Mark's comments mounting it on the front of the mill off the right hand side of the knee. An auxiliary panel holds the tach, ring ligh switch and back up emergency stop mounted as per Kiwi Canuck's approach off the existing bolt holes above the quill feed lever.


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289291


The only real issue at this point seems to be the fact that I'm short! Unlike the 6" plus Kiwi Canuck for me to reach the top of the mill and change collets is just about the max I can reach on tip toes. So might be looking to put in a power draw bar, maybe even hook up a foot control for the brake so I can change tooling without standing on my tip toes (in some cases depending on table position I have to use a stool!).
If anyone has thoughts on this I'd be interested.
 

Kamloopsendo

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Also, I had intended to comment on my construction of an arm to support the DRO screen, again basically a clone of Chevy's design. Turned a couple of bushings, delrin friction washers and a pin bolt into the lift point on top of the mill which supports the arm.

289293


289295

One last comment on the VFD thing. With Mark Jacob's guidance and wiring diagrams I was able to build the control panels, the power enclosure and program the VFD with virtually no issues. Virtually none of this was my idea, I simply followed instructions and it worked out really well.

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So thanks to everyone who's chipped in with ideas and help over the last two years while I SLOWWWLLLLYYYY got this stuff up and running.
Alex
 

grantj

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Can you post a picture of how you installed the Z axis scale to your knee?
 

Kamloopsendo

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I'll post pic's when I get home tonight, I did basically what Chevy (XOutlaw)did which is similar to Davids mount but we both reversed the Z-Axis scale so that the sensor ran up the back side which I hoped would protect it better from spray and debris when working and allowed us to use the aluminum shield.
Alex
 

Kamloopsendo

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Back home and here is a pic of how I mounted my Z axis scale. It's a combination of the plates I got with the DRO and some scrap I had lying around. this sort of mount makes it much harder for debris or lubricants to get into the scale. I hung a bit of rubber to block spray from getting between the scale and the mill frame. Seems to work well:


20190225_192101.jpg
 

Kamloopsendo

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Jeepers David, what a clever idea!! I just looked at the pic quickly but until I watched the video I didn't realize what you'd done. GREAT idea to combine the two issues, I"ve mounted my vertical limit switches on the other side which works but what you've done is MUCH slicker. Once again you never fail to impress!
Aelx
 

grantj

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Thank you both.
I was wondering how to make up for the slope on the side of the mill's base. A couple of angle plates with slotted mounting holes looks like a good idea.

Thank you!
 

Kamloopsendo

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IF I remember the slope on my mill was about 3 degrees, I simply milled a couple of 1" thk aluminum plate risers and bolted them to the mill and the scale mounting bar and shield were then mounted to those. Pretty simple to do just a bit fidly to get the angles measured correctly - attached is a pic of the assembly without the rubber guard to make it a bit more obvious

20190224_153243.jpg
 

davidpbest

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Jeepers David, what a clever idea!! I just looked at the pic quickly but until I watched the video I didn't realize what you'd done. GREAT idea to combine the two issues, I"ve mounted my vertical limit switches on the other side which works but what you've done is MUCH slicker. Once again you never fail to impress!
Aelx
Thanks Alex. It did take some planning. https://flic.kr/s/aHsmqZf9KY

LOL
 
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