Aligning A Cheap Chinese Dividing Head/rotary Table Combination

[CarlosA]

So I have an x2 mini mill, and a rotary table package - specifically this one: http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1931&category=

There are some little keys on the bottom side of both the tail stock and the table ... they are roughly 3/8" wide - the opening in the x2 slots is roughly .46" wide. How do I set this up in a way that it is repeatable?

On another mill that only had two slots I had a real nightmare of setup trying to get it aligned and clamped down with some funky home made clamps. The x2 is new ... so having the indexing setup work with it easily is important to me.

Any ideas or experiences?


Edit to add a little more info as I know this will confuse some:

I am looking for quick ways to set this up in its vertical setup, with the tail stock - so that if you were to sweep the table, with a test indicator on a rod between centers, it would be perfectly straight. Not looking for info on finding the center of the table (not yet anyway).

 

[stupoty]

As it's got a flat bottom it would seem easiest to align the rotary table with a square when in verticle mode or a dial indicator if you were looking for higher accuracy.

I guess the easiest way to align the tail stock depends on how your holding the work in vertical mode.

Stuart

 

[CarlosA]

As it's got a flat bottom it would seem easiest to align the rotary table with a square when in verticle mode or a dial indicator if you were looking for higher accuracy.

I guess the easiest way to align the tail stock depends on how your holding the work in vertical mode.

Stuart

Yeah it does have a flat bottom but with two little keys sticking out. I think the appropriate way must be to just push it against one side of the t-slot with these keys, then it should be dead on - I haven't checked yet, mostly just looking for some tips or tricks.

My intention is to hold the work between centers with a lathe dog. My current biggest use for this will be making a lot of gears for a spur gear differential project.

 

[stupoty]

Yeah it does have a flat bottom but with two little keys sticking out. I think the appropriate way must be to just push it against one side of the t-slot with these keys, then it should be dead on - I haven't checked yet, mostly just looking for some tips or tricks.

My intention is to hold the work between centers with a lathe dog. My current biggest use for this will be making a lot of gears for a spur gear differential project.

Might depend on how square the tee slots are, slightly less critical if your between centres as you can align the tail stock with the mandril that will hold the gear being cut and the centers will alow a small amount of out of square unlike a chuck which will hold it at the angle the rotart table (dividing head) is set at.

Stuart

 

[CarlosA]

Might depend on how square the tee slots are, slightly less critical if your between centres as you can align the tail stock with the mandril that will hold the gear being cut and the centers will alow a small amount of out of square unlike a chuck which will hold it at the angle the rotart table (dividing head) is set at.

Stuart

Good point on that ... roughly setting this up then dialing in with the tailstock is the ticket. I could never use the tailstock before, so held my arbors in a mt2 collet and always ended up with weird issues on the final gears even when everything seemed perfect on the dial indicator.

 

[Nammar]

Dear CarlosA,

The way that I was taught is that you have to make up a test bar. Take a piece of 12" by 1" roundbar, drill two centre holes in it's ends, on your lathe and take a parallel cut between centres. Once you have corrected the error of your lathe and both ends of the test bar measure the same diameter, you can then use the test bar in your milling machine as well, to set the tailstock of the dividing head as well as the alignment of the bar to the table axis.

I hope that this helps you. Geoffrey.

 

[David VanNorman]

If the rt has keys just make a set of keys that fit your table slots . You would half to make keys for the RT and the tail stock.

 

[Bob Korves]

Make a step key to fit the slot. Also make step keys for the horizontal orientation. Make them accurate and tight fitting and you don't have to mess around setting it up each time.

Edit: David beat me to it. Need to learn to think and type faster... 8^)

Second edit: Use the same method for mounting the vise. Saves lots of fooling around setting it up with jaws parallel to the table.

Third edit: Welcome to the forum!

 

[chips&more]

I would mount a chuck on the rotary table and do away with the tailstock all together. I also have a tailstock, but can’t remember the last time I used it? I just mount everything in the chuck or a collet. And as said, if you want the keys to fit, then you will need to make new ones. There are no tricks that I know of to get around sloppy fitting keys. Other than shoving it to one side…Dave.

 

[Whyemier]

If the rt has keys just make a set of keys that fit your table slots . You would half to make keys for the RT and the tail stock.

Yes, I'd do that unless you don't want to modify the rotary table. Then you might consider machining a fixture plate with a 3/8" slot to accommodate it and do a key in the bottom of the fixture plate.

I did something similar recently, cutting a tee slot in an existing small slotted 'table' I had.

IMGP0500

• Whyemier
• Apr 11, 2016

T-Slot