Aluminum Meat Mallet

I have a bunch of 90deg endmills. What size do you need? Let me know and I'll send you one in the post
Great offer. Thank you. But I am a true newby. How would I know what size? I have yet to unpack the R-8 Collet set.

11pc. Precision R-8 Collet Set .0005" Precision Grade 6 Lbs. 10 Oz. USPS Reg Rate A
 
I have a bunch of 90deg endmills. What size do you need? Let me know and I'll send you one in the post
Again that is a generous offer. It is likely I should buy some endmills. I believe the 90° would work. But to be precise, I think the angle is near 60°. But using an angled endmill seems simpler than a flycutter, or tilting the head, or setting an angle on a vise.
 
I have a bunch of 90deg endmills. What size do you need? Let me know and I'll send you one in the post
Thank you all for the flood of help. I have now purchased a chamfering 60° bit and a chamfering endmill 60°. I will enjoy experiencing both and see which way to go as I create ten of these meat-mallet heads. Now to study how I might do the taper. It is 3.25" long and changes in diameter from 750 to 500.
 
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With those measurements, the angle looks to be roughly 4.5 degrees total? So ~2.25 degrees on each side? A bit odd of one, but I'm guessing the taper attachment/compound was just set to 'convenient' and 'looks nice' at the time, rather than a specific angle.
 
With those measurements, the angle looks to be roughly 4.5 degrees total? So ~2.25 degrees on each side? A bit odd of one, but I'm guessing the taper attachment/compound was just set to 'convenient' and 'looks nice' at the time, rather than a specific angle.
Agreed. Back in high school, I am sure I was just demonstrating the ability to do a taper. My guess is, that the lathe had a taper fixture that cared for the angle. But now I get to do it with a 7X14 lathe. I am already thinking about a new, better lathe.
 
For those of us in shop class that made it to the 3rd year, the tenderizer mallet was a big-time favorite project. Our build was for a 90 degree cut, made by tilting the head of the mill to 45 and cutting with a normal flat-bottomed end mill (high school shop is not the place to ask for fancy end mills). It was a fun project that made for some smooth-chewing abalone or schnitzel...
 
For those of us in shop class that made it to the 3rd year, the tenderizer mallet was a big-time favorite project. Our build was for a 90 degree cut, made by tilting the head of the mill to 45 and cutting with a normal flat-bottomed end mill (high school shop is not the place to ask for fancy end mills). It was a fun project that made for some smooth-chewing abalone or schnitzel...
Yes, I was big on diving for abalone and the wife loved it for schnitzel during and after we were assigned to Germany. Now my five daughters want one, each, as do a number of goddaughters and close friends.

My next problem, now, is how to manage the tapper. I am still looking for the best approach with a 7X14 lathe.
 
My next problem, now, is how to manage the tapper. I am still looking for the best approach with a 7X14 lathe.

I think your best bet with the taper is to machine it in two parts using your compound. Cut one part as far as travel allows, then re-set the carriage and tool and cut the second part. If you have 4" of compound travel, then you can do a 8" taper in two steps (more or less). If you botch the join between steps, you can cut a little decorative ring where they touch in the middle of the taper. I mean to say it's not a precision taper, it's just a draft between two diameters, so you don't have much to lose by trying, and if it works, you win.
 
I think your best bet with the taper is to machine it in two parts using your compound. Cut one part as far as travel allows, then re-set the carriage and tool and cut the second part. If you have 4" of compound travel, then you can do a 8" taper in two steps (more or less). If you botch the join between steps, you can cut a little decorative ring where they touch in the middle of the taper. I mean to say it's not a precision taper, it's just a draft between two diameters, so you don't have much to lose by trying, and if it works, you win.
Right. The taper is from 750 to 500 over a length of 3.5 inches. I like your idea and think I might be able to do the full 3.5 inches with one setup. That would be very good if I could. The plan, for now, is to knurl the handle, make the thread on the other end, flip the piece, then set the angle for the taper to cut to a depth of 250 over and a distance of 3.5 inches. That should allow me to have the knurled end in support and make for a very deliberate and successful effort.

I am certainly glad this group is here.
 
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