Another 4X6 Bandsaw Modification

This is the tension gauge I made. It is in a thread in moderator projects under my name. It is easy to build. All you need is a tenth indicator and some scraps of aluminum.
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I replaced the tension knob on mine a while back as well. For a different reason. It stripped off the screw. This new knob works ok.

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The most useful modification I did to my cheap little 4x6 saw was to convert it into a 4x8 saw. I mostly use it for cutting blanks from aluminum bar stock. I use a lot of 1/2 by 6 and 3/4 by six. As you probably know the dimensions of aluminum flat bar varies from one extruder to the next. If I was cutting a batch that was exactly 6 inches I could push on it, and the rollers would rub. If it was a hair over 6 as some is, it would hang up. Can no longer do angled cuts on my bandsaw, but now it will cut stock 8 inches wide.


 
The most useful modification I did to my cheap little 4x6 saw was to convert it into a 4x8 saw. I mostly use it for cutting blanks from aluminum bar stock. I use a lot of 1/2 by 6 and 3/4 by six. As you probably know the dimensions of aluminum flat bar varies from one extruder to the next. If I was cutting a batch that was exactly 6 inches I could push on it, and the rollers would rub. If it was a hair over 6 as some is, it would hang up. Can no longer do a



I made a similar change but I did not alter the back fence, so I can still cut angles. I made a second movable jaw that let's me cut a bit over 7 inches. I simply remove the movable jaw and install my other movable jaw.
 
I've been rebuilding a 70s Taiwan 4x6 for over a year now. I have essentially redone everything short of pouring the cast iron. Gearbox, bearings, guides, etc.
This saw must have been a prototype that somehow escaped the factory LOL Hopefully will be cutting before winter!
Mark S.
ps nice to know about the blade tension-I had no idea it had to be so tight!
 
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I did learn a couple things about blades from talking to the Starret engineers and the company that makes blades for me.
A while back, I made a jig to hold blades to weld them if they broke or to make a new one. I bought the silver solder and flux for brazing the blades and read all I could find about doing so on the internet. I had a couple broken blades and tried brazing them but they either broke while tightening or shortly after I started the saw. The "professionals told me the metal cutting blades HAVE to be welded and MUST be tempered PROPERLY to keep from breaking and through trial and error, I believe this. The fixture I made can still be used if the blades are Tig welded. But since I am not allowed near a welder
(pace maker don't like it), I started looking for a blade welder and found they are very expensive). I finally found one reasonable a few hours from me and got it. After learning how to use it, I can now make my own blades or repair a broken one.
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All the materials in this thread are MY findings and MY opinions. Use this data at your own discretion. A few of the folks at a forum for these saws think I am full of s#&*. But everyone is entitled to their opinion. It works for me. My reason for learning all this was, the supplier that has made my blades for the last few years will be going out of business soon and there will be no local source for blades or repairs. Yes, I can order them on the internet but I want to be able to make or fix my blades when I need one without waiting a week for it. Again, this is information I was given and my opinions.
 
I've been rebuilding a 70s Taiwan 4x6 for over a year now. I have essentially redone everything short of pouring the cast iron. Gearbox, bearings, guides, etc.
This saw must have been a prototype that somehow escaped the factory LOL Hopefully will be cutting before winter!
Mark S.
ps nice to know about the blade tension-I had no idea it had to be so tight!
The blade technically does not have to be that tight. The saw will work anyway if it is tight enough to stay on the wheels. These factors are to make the saw work at it's best. All the adjustments being correct and blade tension and type being correct and cutting force being correct make the saw cut faster, give a good finish, make the blade last longer, and make it cut straighter. The band saw is just like any of your other Machines, it performs best when all the conditions are right.
 
I made a similar change but I did not alter the back fence, so I can still cut angles. I made a second movable jaw that let's me cut a bit over 7 inches. I simply remove the movable jaw and install my other movable jaw.

Your saw must be quite different from mine. With the rollers tapped back with a hammer as far back as they will go it was 100% impossible for them to go past a piece of stock that was even a fraction of a fraction wider than 6 inches.
 
I have had the same Taiwan 4X6 band saw for decades. It’s the only not USA machine I own. Not really proud of that fact, but it does work, and does a darn good job of it. It has a few quirks. The worst one is blade tension. I must tighten the blade tension as tight as can be or the blade will just slip right off the wheels at first cut. After I’m done using the saw, I always undo the blade tension, don’t want all that stress on everything when I’m not using it. I have looked at the problem a bit. Not seeing anything that stands out as the cause. So, I just tighten the blade as tight as I can and it’s all happy. I have the original knob, no cheater bar or extra leverage, just my hand on the knob for tightening…Dave

PS: I put pure STP in the gear box. Have not had a problem with the gear box. Maybe because I used STP???
 
I have had the same Taiwan 4X6 band saw for decades. It’s the only not USA machine I own. Not really proud of that fact, but it does work, and does a darn good job of it. It has a few quirks. The worst one is blade tension. I must tighten the blade tension as tight as can be or the blade will just slip right off the wheels at first cut. After I’m done using the saw, I always undo the blade tension, don’t want all that stress on everything when I’m not using it. I have looked at the problem a bit. Not seeing anything that stands out as the cause. So, I just tighten the blade as tight as I can and it’s all happy. I have the original knob, no cheater bar or extra leverage, just my hand on the knob for tightening…Dave

PS: I put pure STP in the gear box. Have not had a problem with the gear box. Maybe because I used STP???

Some of those Tiwan saws have a tracking adjustment on the top wheel. Mine is an older one from the early 70's. It does not have the adjustment.
 
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