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Another anodizing project

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eac67gt

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Here are ladder rail decorative balls I turned on the lathe using my new ball turner. The old ball ends were plastic and cracked so I made two sets, one for my brother and one for myself.
I turned them out of aluminum and then anodized them and dyed them the Rit Dye color tan. They came out looking a lot like old brass. This will be a good test to see how well anodized parts processed with the sodium bisulfate anodizing solution and dyed with Rit clothes dye and then boil sealed will hold up to UV from the sun. Time will tell. :dunno:

IMG_2234_1.JPGIMG_2235_1.JPGIMG_2236_1.JPGIMG_2239_1.JPG

IMG_2234_1.JPG IMG_2235_1.JPG IMG_2236_1.JPG IMG_2239_1.JPG
 

xalky

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Pretty cool, they came out looking like a brass or gold flake spray paint. Neat!

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Que

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looks good, curious if you clearcoated them or leaving the finish to the elements?
 

eac67gt

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No they aren't clear coated They are anodized and the sealing of the anodizing layer by boiling should hold up pretty good but it is actually a long term test I want to see. I have had questions on how well the anodized layer being sealed by boiling water alone will hold up to ultra violet light and the other elements. This should turn out to be a good test because the son beats on this lamp post. If anything does beat it down it will be the UV from the sun. Being the post lamp is not on a well traveled street salt should not be an issue here even though that would be nice to add that to the test.

Have a great day!

Ed
 

Kevin45

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I'm very curious. From the way I take it, you used nothing but RIT dye and boiling water, correct?

I do have to say that it looks like it did a great job. I'm curious as to the longevity of it.:goodjob2:
 

eac67gt

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Yes, that is exactly what I used. The anodizing itself should hold up well for most environments but there is some discussion over will the dye fade in the sun. Time will tell as these parts are installed on my lamp post along the street.

Have a great day!

Ed

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eac67gt

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Ok an update on using the Rit dye for anodizing an it being exposed to the sun. Yes, for exterior anodized parts that are exposed to the sun "UV" it does fade. The balls I made have been on the lamp post for 2 months now and there is definite fading going on. This proves, as someone said, you should use the "professional" anodizing dye for parts being exposed to the exterior elements. If the parts are only used for stuff not exposed to these conditions the Rit dye should be fine. I have many parts dyed with Rit and they look as good today as they did when I made them.

Ed
 

autonoz

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Thanks for the test as I am just getting started in anodizing, this is useful information.
 

eac67gt

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The anodized layer has not broken down but the dye fade below that layer. Anodizing is a crystalline layer on top of the aluminum. The dye is trapped or enclosed in the crystal when it is boiled or chemically sealed. In the case of my parts they were sealed by boiling. There is no apparent degradation of the anodized layer therefore it appears the dye is fading below due to the UV. A automotive clear coat with UV blocker in it may help slow down the process of the dye fading. The only negative part of that would be it shouldn't have to be done. If the "professional" dye is used it shouldn't fade. Anodizing itself should hold up in harsh environments for long periods of time. Boy what a load of babble this has been. :jester:
 

BKtoys

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i don't think it's a load of babble, to me it is a wealth of information of this process for anodizing. i feel that reading all these posts, i get more info to get a real headstart. i do thank you for sharing your info with all of us.
i'm retired and have some time to get it together:man::phew:
 
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I have yet to see any anodize hold up to the sun
 

jamie76x

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Real anodizing dye's are not very expensive.... But the rit dye does work. Real anodizing sealer is what has the UV resistance, and also not very expensive to buy the real stuff.
 

eac67gt

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Thanks Jamie 76.
What particular sealer are you referring to?
Have a great day!
Ed

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jamie76x

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I forget the chemical name, but its a hot (180-190) degree sealer. There is a guy in Danville, PA that sells dye's, cleaners and sealers in small qt's that makes it affordable for the hobby guy. He also sells a guide book that will same you tons of trials and error. His company is thefocuser.com or moonlight telescope. I got his book about 5 years ago and my initial supplies to start a small anodize set up, and made several runs to the point of needing a more serious set up. I ever was able to spend a few hours there, watch him run a batch of anodize and buy all the stuff i needed.
 

BKtoys

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I forget the chemical name, but its a hot (180-190) degree sealer. There is a guy in Danville, PA that sells dye's, cleaners and sealers in small qt's that makes it affordable for the hobby guy. He also sells a guide book that will same you tons of trials and error. His company is thefocuser.com or moonlight telescope. I got his book about 5 years ago and my initial supplies to start a small anodize set up, and made several runs to the point of needing a more serious set up. I ever was able to spend a few hours there, watch him run a batch of anodize and buy all the stuff i needed.

hi jamie76xi really appreciate the info on the suppliers,but you can't use "the" in front of focuser.com. just a quick note to make it easier to locate. you are definatly right about the man and his supplies, there fantastic, i'm going to order the book first, that way i will get a good start along with all the help in this forum. thank you all for sharing this info
 

jamie76x

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The book will save you time and money and Ron is a really good guy. If you call him he with a question he will take the time to help you. He made it very easy for me to get set up anodizing.
 

BKtoys

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The book will save you time and money and Ron is a really good guy. If you call him he with a question he will take the time to help you. He made it very easy for me to get set up anodizing.
hi jamie76x i ordered the book and just received it today, and boy does it have an awful lot of information in it , and i just browsed over each page a bit to understanding it all i'm almost swamped but i'll have a great time putting this system together.i'll have plenty of time i'm retired:thinking::thinking::allgood::allgood:
 

jamie76x

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Good, that book will save you a lot of time and money. Let us know how you make out. Also, some of the dies like black seam to work better cold. Call and talk to Ron before you order and ask him. When I started dealing with him the book said 160-180 degrees on all the dies, but he was starting to have better results with colder temps on some colors. I know the blues and reds worked great at 160-170 but black was working perfect for me at room temp. Good luck!
 

churchjw

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Where on focuser.com is the anodizing stuff? Love the project great info. I want to try anodizing some parts myself.

Jeff
 

BKtoys

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Good, that book will save you a lot of time and money. Let us know how you make out. Also, some of the dies like black seam to work better cold. Call and talk to Ron before you order and ask him. When I started dealing with him the book said 160-180 degrees on all the dies, but he was starting to have better results with colder temps on some colors. I know the blues and reds worked great at 160-170 but black was working perfect for me at room temp. Good luck!
The dye manufactures all list the best temp to run them at is between 120 and 140 for best absorption in the quickest amount of time. However I know a few customers that run some of the colors closer to room temp so they can produce lighter shades having more time to pull the parts and look at them, then put them back in a little to adjust the shade. the cooler dye temp slows down the process a little.

I run my black at 140 as I want it to be as jet black as possible :)

Thanks
Ron
www.focuser.com
from BKtoys
 

BKtoys

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here is a pot that i found that i think will work from wallmart , it is an 8 qt. stainless steel it was only $6.95 with lid100_0138.JPG:peace::idea:

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