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Another Hendey Refurbish
- Thread starter 682bear
- Start date
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- Nov 28, 2016
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I didn't get anything done on the Hendey this morning. I went paint shopping instead...
When I painted the last Hendey, I found a color I liked online (Rustoleum Smoke Gray) and bought a gallon of it... the picture on my phone didn't match the paint... at all... nowhere close.
I'm still not really in love with the color, but it's ok... this time I decided I would find the color that I want and have the paint mixed to match, instead of 'settling' for what I can get off the shelf.
I've decided that picking colors is frustrating.
I found a color online (again) and went to get a gallon mixed... this is what I picked...
When I got to the store, I found the swatch for this color and... it doesn't match the color on my phone!
So... I picked through the swatches until I found a close match and had the paint mixed... then came home and painted a 'test piece'.
The test piece doesn't match the swatch or the color on my phone....
I was looking for a medium-dark blue-gray...
The test piece has a fuzz of a purple tint...
So... I took a pic of the test piece with my phone... and the pic doesn't match the test piece...
The pic just looks gray... WTH?
So... how do you pick a color and go about actually getting that color?
I'm not sure I'll like the purple tint... once again, do I 'settle' for it, or try again?
Frustrating...
-Bear
When I painted the last Hendey, I found a color I liked online (Rustoleum Smoke Gray) and bought a gallon of it... the picture on my phone didn't match the paint... at all... nowhere close.
I'm still not really in love with the color, but it's ok... this time I decided I would find the color that I want and have the paint mixed to match, instead of 'settling' for what I can get off the shelf.
I've decided that picking colors is frustrating.
I found a color online (again) and went to get a gallon mixed... this is what I picked...
When I got to the store, I found the swatch for this color and... it doesn't match the color on my phone!
So... I picked through the swatches until I found a close match and had the paint mixed... then came home and painted a 'test piece'.
The test piece doesn't match the swatch or the color on my phone....
I was looking for a medium-dark blue-gray...
The test piece has a fuzz of a purple tint...
So... I took a pic of the test piece with my phone... and the pic doesn't match the test piece...
The pic just looks gray... WTH?
So... how do you pick a color and go about actually getting that color?
I'm not sure I'll like the purple tint... once again, do I 'settle' for it, or try again?
Frustrating...
-Bear
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2014
- Messages
- 2,124
Computer monitors by default do NOT reproduce colors very well. This is not a problem for general use. When color matching or selection is critical, then there are ways to calibrate a monitor on a Computer but it must be done regularly. I am sure the same in-accuracies apply to phone screens but I am not aware of anyway to calibrate a phone screen. Unless you are able to view on a calibrated monitor then I would not trust the colors. Going to a paint store and visually looking at paint chips is probably the only alternative.
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- Sep 28, 2013
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what he ^ said 
That one looks to be in really good shape for a 100 year old machine, though I'm sure it'll be even spiffier when you're finished. How are you going to repair the taper attachement gear - turn off the old one and press on a new one that you're going to make?
I loved the picture of the loaded trailer, you must have looked like a mobile Tibetan prayer post going down the road :O
That one looks to be in really good shape for a 100 year old machine, though I'm sure it'll be even spiffier when you're finished. How are you going to repair the taper attachement gear - turn off the old one and press on a new one that you're going to make?
I loved the picture of the loaded trailer, you must have looked like a mobile Tibetan prayer post going down the road :O
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- Nov 28, 2016
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what he ^ said
That one looks to be in really good shape for a 100 year old machine, though I'm sure it'll be even spiffier when you're finished. How are you going to repair the taper attachement gear - turn off the old one and press on a new one that you're going to make?
I loved the picture of the loaded trailer, you must have looked like a mobile Tibetan prayer post going down the road :O
The lathe is in very good condition overall... there may not be a lot of mechanical restoration needed, this project may be mostly cleaning and painting.
The gear is a press fit inside the knob... the ID of the knob is smaller than the major diameter of the gear, so the part of the gear teeth that is inside the knob was turned down to fit. So the part of the teeth inside the knob is only about half the depth of the full teeth... if that makes any sense... I'll just copy that design. I'll cut the gear teeth on a piece of steel rod, make them 2" long or so, then turn the end to be a press fit in the knob. Part it off and press it in, and it will be done.
My gear tooth cutter arrived today. It fits on a 7/8" arbor... I don't have a 7/8" arbor, so I'll have to make one.
Getting both machines home was an adventure... I bolted both machines to the trailer deck, then put 5 heavy straps on each machine... I was nervous about it, especially the top-heavy drill press, but they both rode fine all the way home.
-Bear
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- Nov 28, 2016
- Messages
- 2,332
I decided today I would machine a new gear for the taper attachment adjusting knob. I had ordered an involute gear cutter from a seller on ebay. The gear is a 24 DP, 14.5 degree PA, 18 tooth gear. The only cutters I could find fit a ⅞" arbor... I don't have a ⅞" arbor, so I had to make one...
I turned a piece of 1" steel rod (1018 probably, thats what it machined like) down to 0.833" and set it up in my BS-1 dividing head on the vertical mill...
After machining the teeth and cleaning it up...
...i chucked it up in the South Bend and machined the end that presses into the knob down to 0.750".
I cut it off on the little 4x6 bandsaw, faced the cut end, and spent a few minutes removing burrs with a needle file before pressing it into the knob...
That is the old, stripped gear next to the knob.
I put it on the taper attachment... it fits and works fine!
I've only put about 7 hours into this little gear...
-Bear
I turned a piece of 1" steel rod (1018 probably, thats what it machined like) down to 0.833" and set it up in my BS-1 dividing head on the vertical mill...
After machining the teeth and cleaning it up...
...i chucked it up in the South Bend and machined the end that presses into the knob down to 0.750".
I cut it off on the little 4x6 bandsaw, faced the cut end, and spent a few minutes removing burrs with a needle file before pressing it into the knob...
That is the old, stripped gear next to the knob.
I put it on the taper attachment... it fits and works fine!
I've only put about 7 hours into this little gear...
-Bear
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- Sep 28, 2013
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- 4,302
excellent fix!
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2016
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- 2,332
The other day as I was machining the steel for the taper attachment gear, I was having issues with chatter on the South Bend... even taking light cuts. Taking a .020 DOC would make the SB sing...
So this morning, I removed the spindle bearing caps and took out a .001" shim, then adjusted the endplay... I tested it by taking a .080" DOC on the same material.
It cut fine, so maybe I've straightened that out...
I also finished disassembling the Hendey... I removed the carriage, gearbox casting, rack, and the feed clutch shift assembly. It is ready to come off the legs... then I get to have fun cleaning it.
An interesting note about the longitudinal feed rack... it was in two pieces, one long, one shorter.
When I realized that, I thought the end of the rack must have been damaged and someone cut it off and replaced the damaged end. Then I realized the short piece is 24 inches long... I'm guessing that Hendey made it that way. The 14" lathe came standard with a 6 foot bed, but could be ordered with an 8 or 10 foot bed (and maybe 12 foot). I'm guessing that they made the racks to fit the 6 foot lathe, then if they needed a longer rack, they simply added a 2 or 4 foot section as needed.
The Hendey project will be put on hold for a few weeks... I'm about to be wrapped up in vacation season. I plan to continue with it around the middle of July...
-Bear
So this morning, I removed the spindle bearing caps and took out a .001" shim, then adjusted the endplay... I tested it by taking a .080" DOC on the same material.
It cut fine, so maybe I've straightened that out...
I also finished disassembling the Hendey... I removed the carriage, gearbox casting, rack, and the feed clutch shift assembly. It is ready to come off the legs... then I get to have fun cleaning it.
An interesting note about the longitudinal feed rack... it was in two pieces, one long, one shorter.
When I realized that, I thought the end of the rack must have been damaged and someone cut it off and replaced the damaged end. Then I realized the short piece is 24 inches long... I'm guessing that Hendey made it that way. The 14" lathe came standard with a 6 foot bed, but could be ordered with an 8 or 10 foot bed (and maybe 12 foot). I'm guessing that they made the racks to fit the 6 foot lathe, then if they needed a longer rack, they simply added a 2 or 4 foot section as needed.
The Hendey project will be put on hold for a few weeks... I'm about to be wrapped up in vacation season. I plan to continue with it around the middle of July...
-Bear