Another Hendey Refurbish

Just out of curiosity, roughly what is the taper on a tapered sleeve bearing such as in the headstock? I’m not real familiar with this type of bearing, seems useful. I don’t need to know the exact angle, just ballpark as in is it like a Morse taper angle or more like an ER collet angle? Just curious.

-frank

Somewhere between the two... it is 4 degrees per side... 8 degrees included. I'm not sure what an ER collet taper is, but it's a good bit more, Morse taper is between 1-½ and 2 degrees per side, IIRC.

-Bear
 
Thanks for that. Now to come up with an excuse to make one.. :encourage:
 
The last couple of days, I've been tinkering with the headstock... cleaning, prepping, painting... I disassembled the feed reversing clutch, cleaned and oiled it, and reassembled back into the headstock casting. It was in very good condition, but it was a good thing I took it out, the oil passages to it were clogged.

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The spindle is in the headstock in the pics... I slipped it in to get an accurate measurement of the gap between the spindle shoulder and the main spindle bearing. It needs a 0.031" shim behind the thrust washer... I have a shim ordered.

I pre-fitted the bull gear and step pulley on the spindle... the step pulley fit great... but I had to do some 'fitting' on the bull gear. The ID of the gear had some dings... and someone had replaced the key... the key was too tight in the keyway.

After getting everything to fit together, while the paint on the headstock was drying, I took an hour and installed the taper attachment...

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Hopefully, I'll get the headstock bolted back on tomorrow and be ready to assemble it as soon as the shim arrives from McMaster-Carr.

-Bear
 
This morning I set the headstock on the lathe, connected the feed reverse clutch linkage, and bolted it down. Sometime during all that, the brown truck dropped off a box with the spindle shim in it.

The shim was the correct thickness, the OD was acceptable (not a critical dimension), but the ID was about 0.060 small. I chucked it up on the South Bend and opened the ID up to fit the spindle. I then used a carbide burr in a Dremel to cut a slot to clear the anti-rotation pin on the spindle...

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It fit the spindle pretty well..

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That is the shim between the spindle shoulder and the thrust washer.

I went ahead and assembled the spindle in the headstock...

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Yes, I managed to scratch the new paint on the headstock trying to get it all lined up... I'll have to touch that up.

I should have brought the headstock into the basement after painting it yesterday. The temperature dropped to around 50 degrees overnight, and the paint didn't fully dry. It's still a little sticky now... I hope it dries eventually... I would hate to have to disassemble it and strip/ repaint it...

-Bear
 
I haven't made much progress on the Hendey lately... I've had too many other things going on, but have managed to take care of a few small things.

I've cleaned, polished, and installed one of the QCGB handles...

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Cleaned and installed the gear on the outboard end of the spindle...

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And cleaned and installed the front oilers on the headstock oil reservoirs (sorry, I didn't get any pics). I've also cleaned the back gear parts and they are ready for paint.

I may have to take the headstock back apart and off the lathe, though. In my last update, I mentioned that the paint was still sticky in spots... there are 3 small areas where the paint has not dried yet. I'm not sure why...

I'll make a guess, though... I'm figuring that there may be oil soaked into the cast iron... after I cleaned and painted it, the oil leached out of the casting under the paint and is preventing the paint from curing...?

Is that possible? If so, how do I fix it?

It seems as though the areas are getting smaller over time... I'll be tied up for most of October with other things, so I may just hold off until the first week in November and hope that it is cured by then... I'm not too optimistic, though...

Ideas? Opinions?

-Bear
 
I finally found time to work on the Hendey again today... the sticky paint situation has resolved itself... it is dry now. I was relieved, I really didn't want to take the spindle back out of the headstock... but then I found this...

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It is the bull gear counterweight.

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It had gotten pushed back under the pump in the parts washer and forgotten. It goes between the bull gear and cone pulley, so I had to take the spindle back out to install it anyway. I disassembled the headstock, installed the weight, and reassembled everything.

I masked off the back gear and back gear handle and painted them also... they should be ready to reassemble tomorrow.

I have also discovered another issue that I'll have to address. In one of the early updates in this thread, I had mentioned that the longitudinal feed pinion gear had been previously repaired. I have discovered that it is rubbing the rack under the bed... I'm assuming that when the new gear was brazed to the pinion, the brazing was not fully blended flush in one area. I'll have to remove the apron and take the pinion out and see if I can determine what is going on...

One step forward, two steps back... that's the way things work sometimes.

-Bear
 
My Smart and Brown was like that. Lathe itself is in decent condition but everything I took apart had been cobbled up by someone into half assed repairs. Took me two years on and off but it is finally running and worth the effort. Hendey has good bones so it will reward you. Dave
 
I finished assembling the back gear today...

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I'm starting to see light at the end of this tunnel...

I finished cleaning up the remainder of the headstock gear train parts... they are ready to assemble. I also disassembled the small gearbox and have it and all of the guards and covers soaking in the parts cleaner.

After finishing the gear train/ gearbox, I'll get started on the tailstock.

I also still have to come up with some way to power the lathe. I did not get a drive system with it... just a countershaft.

I'm thinking about taking the gearbox/ motor setup off the first Hendey I refurbished and putting it on this one just to run it and see how well it works. Eventually I will probably fabricate something using the countershaft that came with it.

-Bear
 
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