Another Tool & Cutter Grinder

I got part of the head elevation system made. I turned the ends of the lead screw to .375" to fit the bushings in the supports. I then made the supports from 1" thick Aluminum bar stock, 3 inches wide and 4 inches long.
IMG_0685.JPG I bored the 2 inch hole in each piece. then turned a light press fit plug to keep the two pieces aligned. The bearing hole for the lead screw is located 1.500" from the center of the 2 inch hole. The part was clamped to the drill press table and the hole drilled and reamed.
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IMG_0687.JPG I put t he reamer in the hole to keep the pieces aligned and cut the final shape in the band saw.
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IMG_0690.JPG This is the lead screw supports after cutting. all that is left is to drill for a set screw and polish. It was important to take care that these two parts are exactly alike so the lead screw will function with no binding over the complete travel range. Thr reason for the suports bieng 1" thick is to make sure they are thick enough to sit and hold perfectly perpendicular to the column. this requires the 2" hole to be a light press to a slip fit on the column. Next is to make the brass bushings
 
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Mark
Just got up to date and what a build. Love it and I hate to say it but maybe the Quorn is going into a box and look a little bit closer at building something like this.
Thank you for all you do.
Nelson
 
Mark
Just got up to date and what a build. Love it and I hate to say it but maybe the Quorn is going into a box and look a little bit closer at building something like this.
Thank you for all you do.
Nelson

Yea Nelson, ......... I wish I had thought of this design before I built the Bonelle. I would have built this instead. It is easier to build and will be simpler to set up and use. I am using the Chinese water pump motor for the grinding head. it is perfect for it. Light weight, lots of power , and I don't have to worry about not having enough starting torque to overcome the belts , spindle, and pulleys.....cause there aren't any! This is much heavier than the Quorn or Bonelle. sturdier too. It will do everything the same with less setting up. I think the cost is actually going to be less too. Definitely will be for me , but if you bought everything new , it certainly would not cost more. I am really excited with this build and can't wait to finish it and see how it works.
I found a new source for metal also. this guy was one of the founders of one of the major online suppliers. he retired and started another online metal supply company. I been buying from him and he is competitive in price and ships the cheapest way possible. and only charges actual shipping costs. I call him or email him and get a quote quickly. Remind me to tell you about it next time we talk.
 
I forgot to post the photos of the grinding wheel arbor for the motor. It is held on the motor shaft with two setscrews 90 degrees apart. I made this yesterday.

IMG_0683.JPG The arbor is .750" diameter. The nut and arbor is threaded .750-28 threads. I made these as close to a class 3 fit as possible. The arbor runs well with no vibration. This holds wheels with a 3/4" hole. There is a washer set I made which allows me to install wheels with a 1 1/4" bore on this arbor. I test run the arbor with all parts without a wheel to be sure it runs smooth with no vibration.
IMG_0684.JPG I am also making a set of washers to adapt some metric wheels I have. The wheel guard is designed ( before someone asks :grin: ). It will bolt directly to the front of the motor housing and cover the shaft , arbor, and wheel. There will be three interchangeable guards to work with most wheel diameters. I want them to be easy to change out. A friend is going to roll the metal for the guards.
 
I got the elevation screw and brackets installed on the column. It seems to work smoothly but just a little stiff. That is better than sloppy though. I think it is a little stiff because everything was held to a thousandth or two in making all these parts. It is impossible to work that close on old machines in my tiny shop and everything line up perfectly, but I put it together and it works smoothly, just a tiny bit stiffer than I prefer, but I am going to leave it as is. It's not like I'll be cranking it up and down very much or very far.
IMG_0691.JPG Once I get the hand wheel on it, it should turn much easier. I was turning the screw with my fingers ( that may be why I think it is so stiff). Also it is dry....no lube yet.
I ordered $160 worth of metal today for this machine. I need a bigger base plate, so I ordered a 16" X 18" X 3/4 aluminum plate ( that was $100). I also ordered metal for the column base and a couple other parts I need. As soon as it gets here I can get moving again. I figure this grinder is going to cost me about $350 to build. If I had bout everything new...... I think it would hit about $650 maybe. but that is a lot better than $7000.

More to come later.......
 
No lube or handwheel?!? I think you're being a bit too hard on yourself Mark.

Given what I've seen of your previous work, I suspect it will work just fine once you have it all completed. :)
 
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