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- Apr 8, 2013
- Messages
- 1,977
me neither
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Any ideas on shop wall covering
- Thread starter TakeDeadAim
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 2,606
My shop is in 32' of a 40' x 56' barn. I framed 2x4 walls on 2' center that fit between the poles which are on 8' centers. Then stapled in 6" thick fiberglass batts 22 1/2" (or whatever the standard size is). Finished wall is 7/16" OSB. If you go with wood panels, don't do what I did and use an air nailer to secure them. Sure wish I'd have screwed them down for easier access just in case. Slopped on white primer paint to finish it off and brighten the room.
My ceiling is white pole barn steel. At the time, 16' x 3' sheets were $25, so $50 to cover 3' of the 32' width. Cost $650 in steel plus a bunch of drywall screws to secure it. I used suspended ceiling "L" pieces on the side walls to support the ends. To hang it (had no help for the job), I made a 1-by cleat that was screwed to the wall with a hinged frame made from 16' lengths of 16-gauge galvanized angle that was on the edges of my steel panels to protect the edges during shipping. Hinged the angle at the cleat, ran a cross board like a railroad tie at the other end. Then hinged a 2x4x9 1/2' to the cross piece.
To set the steel, I set the frame cross-piece on the top of a step ladder, dumped a piece of steel on top, then lifted it up into rough place and slid the wall end on top of the suspended ceiling angle. My problem was all of my equipment was in place and I didn't want to move it around to free the floor under the ceiling to set the panels in place. The steel cost at least double what drywall would have run, but it was already painted and went up very quickly. Not the easiest thing to cut holes in for electrical boxes; I drill a hole through the steel at the edge of a truss bottom, then mark the box corners from below. Drill holes in the corners, make three cuts with a saber saw and fold the tab up to the truss and screw it down.
Other reason for steel as a ceiling in my case was the roof trusses are on 2' center. Was worried about the drywall weight pulling itself through screws with the 2' span and 12" of insulation on top.
Bruce
My ceiling is white pole barn steel. At the time, 16' x 3' sheets were $25, so $50 to cover 3' of the 32' width. Cost $650 in steel plus a bunch of drywall screws to secure it. I used suspended ceiling "L" pieces on the side walls to support the ends. To hang it (had no help for the job), I made a 1-by cleat that was screwed to the wall with a hinged frame made from 16' lengths of 16-gauge galvanized angle that was on the edges of my steel panels to protect the edges during shipping. Hinged the angle at the cleat, ran a cross board like a railroad tie at the other end. Then hinged a 2x4x9 1/2' to the cross piece.
To set the steel, I set the frame cross-piece on the top of a step ladder, dumped a piece of steel on top, then lifted it up into rough place and slid the wall end on top of the suspended ceiling angle. My problem was all of my equipment was in place and I didn't want to move it around to free the floor under the ceiling to set the panels in place. The steel cost at least double what drywall would have run, but it was already painted and went up very quickly. Not the easiest thing to cut holes in for electrical boxes; I drill a hole through the steel at the edge of a truss bottom, then mark the box corners from below. Drill holes in the corners, make three cuts with a saber saw and fold the tab up to the truss and screw it down.
Other reason for steel as a ceiling in my case was the roof trusses are on 2' center. Was worried about the drywall weight pulling itself through screws with the 2' span and 12" of insulation on top.
Bruce
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2016
- Messages
- 1,133
What no blood? Or is that considered part of the Oil Splatter???my walls are covered in oil spatters, swarf, sweat, and my tears
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2017
- Messages
- 1,234
No blood?my walls are covered in oil spatters, swarf, sweat, and my tears
Edit: D'oh Latin beat me to it!