Anyone making .223 bullets with .22LR brass.

Turbinedoctor

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I have been watching several Youtube videos on this and have started making my own set of dies. I have the derimming die done but it is only sizing them down to .226. Now working on the lead swaging die.

Looking to see if someone is will to share their design failures and success stories.
 
Turbo,
Why use 22 brass, just go to a range and pick up a lot of 223 brass like I did (got 10 boxes from one guy with a AR that did not reload and took the boxes too). It has been awhile since I got the lead bullets, but I think you can still get them. I did reload some time ago and still have a lot left. I think they were 55 gr. as I had a hart time finding 62 gr. hollow points at that time. How do they make the primer pocket in 22LR brass? Too much trouble for me, it's just too easy to get all brass I need at the range.
Paul
 
What they are doing is using the .22LR brass as the jacket for the bullet or projectile. Form it to .224 outside diameter, stuff it with lead, form the nose and then stuff it in the case with lots of powder behind it.


Here is a link to the last video in a 9 part series. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPx0TGMCqAs&list=WLCF2E1737BAE8390C

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If you happen to pick up too much brass feel free to send it my way. Heck I'll even pay for the shipping.
 
TurbineDoc,

are you annealing the brass in-between the steps?? I would assume you are :allgood: but had to ask..

I know from my ML building and such, it doesn't take brass that long to work harden.. Maybe a good annealing,
right before the last swaging?? would help the forming get down to .224 and eliminate any spring back..

Sorry to poke my noes in... just thinking outloud!

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan
 
As an eight year old kid I used to wander through what was later to become hornaday manufacturing, that's when their shop was only about 12 feet wide and 50 feet long, on fourth street in grand island, Nebraska I was totally mesmerized by the machines going up and down in the in and out, and stamping out pieces of copper. I'm 72 now and have been invited to their new manufacturing facilities over the years.
I wouldn't say it was a delicate process but it is definitely a scientific, and maybe you could even say having a feel for getting it done right. I don't believe there's any of annealing process going on after the jacket is stamped out, but there are a lot are rejects in getting the machines set up, which we used to be able to buy, and they worked fine for three and matches. While all that is going on, lead is being poured into rounds slugs and pressure fed through a die to make wire that is cut into slugs for those bullets. All this is choreographed by engineers and machinists and have been doing it for years. They are then taken down to the basement and shot and tested all under controlled conditions.
I am in no way trying to discourage you from making your own, I'm sure that's how hornaday got his start. I just don't believe that you can make them and be competitive with what they charge for them.
Have fun and enjoy yourself.
 
Here's a few videos by a guy building a set http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0JVm76Y37I It seems like a lot of work without some type of automated press for a guy with big fingers like me.

I have watched most of his videos on making those dies. I might like to try that way later but I have already started the dies for the .22LR brass.

Thanks for the input.

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For a lot of information check out castboolits swage fourm. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?41-Swaging

I have been to that site but at the time I was interested in casting bullets. Haven't been back looking for this type of work.

Thanks for the link.

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TurbineDoc,

are you annealing the brass in-between the steps?? I would assume you are :allgood: but had to ask..

I know from my ML building and such, it doesn't take brass that long to work harden.. Maybe a good annealing,
right before the last swaging?? would help the forming get down to .224 and eliminate any spring back..

Sorry to poke my noes in... just thinking outloud!

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

I did not anneal the first ones I put through my die but since I saw where one guy did and it seemed to make a huge difference in the effort it took to push them through the die. I will try to anneal the next batch after I figure out how to properly anneal them.

Any tips on annealing brass? This may help with the spring back as you mentioned.

I don't consider it poking your nose in, I am asking for suggestions and thank you for yours.
 
TurbineDoc,

Not sure of an efficient way to anneal the brass bits you have?

When I need to I hold the part with a pair of hemostats and bring to a low-orange heat.( doesn't take much and too far is Too easy!! )
drop into a cold water and then into a 10% Hydrochloric acid bath to remove the black surface crud..

I'm thinking :thinking:
Maybe you could pile them into a small tin?? say a tuna can or similar... heat a 'batch' up to as near orange as you can
and then turn them out into a bucket of water?? Like I said not real efficient..

IF you had access to a muffle furnace ( sorry I'm a lab tech ) you could pile a load into a cake pan
and then have a deep sink or large water source to drop them into??


Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan
 
Most derim first and then anneal. I use my lead pot, fill and cover with foil. Bake for 20 minutes and then wet tumble to clean.
 
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