Atlas 7B Disassembly and Teardown! Pic Heavy!

Thanks for the info! I really appreciate you sharing all the numbers.

I was wondering about the sliding block, maybe it's spec'd as bronze so it becomes the wear part since it is easily replaceable. If the sliding block were tool steel is it possible that it could cause wear to the crank arm? It that case the block would last forever but the crank arm would need replacement or resurfacing after much use.

Just a thought.
 
The way I look at it is, the surface area of contact of the arm is far greater than the sides of the block which is also dependent on where the stroke is set. The sides of the block are in constant contact. I would definitely prefer to replace the block rather than the arm but I don't think they had thought to much about replacement, more so the longevity of the parts. I do also think that a lot of these machines didn't receive the proper lubrication by the operator although I think the oiling system for the block is lacking and could use additional passageways directing oil to the sides of the block and arm. I am unsure on the use of oilite as the material for the block. I do think that oilite bronze would be good for lubrication but I am unsure of using it here because of the shock and load it has to withstand. I don't think that they had high load (iron embedded) oilite bronze when these machines were being built but I may be wrong. Maybe a steel block with oilite shoulders would be a good compromise?

I think one thing that will greatly reduce future wear to the machine would be to put a bellow or cover over the opening of the casting below the ram. When disassembling my machine I found a lot of chips inside the main cast housing. Many chips were packed around the table lift screw gears and there are a few gouges to the teeth of the crank gear and the other smaller gear where it appears that chips got stuck. There is also the scoring on the side of the block and ram (more so on the block) but I think this was due to the previous owner not lubricating enough.

Sorry for the book. Just my thoughts on the matter.
Weldo said:
Thanks for the info! I really appreciate you sharing all the numbers.

I was wondering about the sliding block, maybe it's spec'd as bronze so it becomes the wear part since it is easily replaceable. If the sliding block were tool steel is it possible that it could cause wear to the crank arm? It that case the block would last forever but the crank arm would need replacement or resurfacing after much use.

Just a thought.
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I would like to add that I will be modifying my sliding block as did frugalguido and Weldo by drilling a hole perpendicular to the existing hole for oiling and also adding oil grooves to assist in lubricating this area. Thanks for the great idea. I don't think I would have done it otherwise.
Question: What kind of oil should be used here? Way oil or a lighter oil? I can't imagine that a light oil would stay in the reservoir as the machine is running even thought the machine operates at a slow rpm. The arm pivots on an arc side to side but the sliding block is rotating up and down and this action I would assume would fling the oil off of it. I assume that the reason you guys drilled the hole larger was to increase oil capacity but I can't see it remaining in the reservoir.

EDIT: I was looking at the Ammco shaper and unlike the Atlas they have a Gitts oiler for lubricating the sliding block and arm. I am not saying an oiler would be better, I'm just curious what everyone else's thoughts are as to what is better?
Here is a photo.
Shoe.jpg
 
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It probably won't remain in the reservoir but the larger hole will allow just that much more oil into the side facing passage ways. I made the hole as big as I felt comfortable because I figured smearing 2cc of oil is better than 1cc of oil.

As far as I could tell the manual recommends SAE 10 (ISO 32) for pretty much every part except one or two. I think it's the oil cup on top of the ram that is recommended SAE 20 (ISO 68).

I had a helluva time finding an ISO 32 way oil so I just went with ISO 68. I haven't run my machine yet but I plan on using ISO 68 on everything.

The gears in the column are recommended to be spread with grease.
 
Thanks for the info. I have Mobil DTE 26 which is a heavy medium hydraulic oil (ISO 68). Is it similar to what you intend to use? I don't understand oils and don't have the patience to either. Would Mobil DTE 24 (ISO 32) work? I can find that from Mobil on Amazon in a gallon container. I assume there is a lubrication manual for this machine on somewhere on Vintage Machinery .com. ?

Weldo said:
It probably won't remain in the reservoir but the larger hole will allow just that much more oil into the side facing passage ways. I made the hole as big as I felt comfortable because I figured smearing 2cc of oil is better than 1cc of oil.

As far as I could tell the manual recommends SAE 10 (ISO 32) for pretty much every part except one or two. I think it's the oil cup on top of the ram that is recommended SAE 20 (ISO 68).

I had a helluva time finding an ISO 32 way oil so I just went with ISO 68. I haven't run my machine yet but I plan on using ISO 68 on everything.

The gears in the column are recommended to be spread with grease.
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Yea there is a manual somewhere on the net. Hydraulic oil would probably be fine, although a proper "way" oil is specifically formulated for sliding metal surfaces. It supposedly has better adhesion to metal surfaces as well, to keep a film coating on mating parts.

Ultimately the small Atlas shaper is probably light duty enough that any type of oil would work just fine. This machine won't be seeing high rpm, extreme temperatures or crazy tons of load. That being said, I did purchase a true way oil for mine...
 
Got a little further along on my part.

Parted off the section I needed. Man, parting ops are tough on my little flimsy Atlas! I think some of my fillings may have loosened up from all the chatter!

EM520633.JPG



It fits pretty well in the welded part. The ID is still a few thou small which is good. I wanted to take a final sizing pass after it gets welded up.

EM520634.JPG



Here's the fabbed part next to the original casting. It's a close approximation. Now I gotta machine up the smaller bung.

EM520635.JPG
 
Hi, I'm starting to put my atlas 7b shaper back to gather and I must have thrown out my schematic for wiring the Atlas motor back up could you possibly tell me how to wire this back up it's a 1/2 HP,60 cycle,phase 1,8/4 amps and 110-220 volts any help would be appreciated ,thanks Rick
 
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master of none said:
Hi, I'm starting to put my atlas 7b shaper back to gather and I must have thrown out my schematic for wireing the motor back up could you possibly tell me how to wire this back up it's a 1/2 HP,60 cycle,phase 1,8/4 amps and 110-220 volts any help would be appreciated ,thanks Rick
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The motors on these aren't particularly standard (people typically just bought an off-the-shelf motor with these), so it is unlikely it shares wiring with the rest of our 7Bs. Can you take a picture of the data-plate? Typically there is a wiring diagram on it.
 
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