Atlas counter shaft bushing

[00harleydyna]

I got a atlas 12" 101.07403 a few weeks ago and have been going through it on my free time, tonight I noticed some play in the right hand side counter shaft bushing and noticed the oil well wasn't taking oil. I looked up the bushing number l3-109 and I'm going to replace it but I'm wondering how long it might have been run with the bad bushing, it looks to have about .020 of vertical play, maybe a touch more. Does anyone know what the dimensions of that bushing are from the factory from what I'm reading it's a sintered bronze bushing but I'm concerned I might need to make something on my other lathe if that bushing wore out the counter shaft. Any first hand experience?

 

[Bob Korves]

You can cut a bushing to fit the worn shaft, if it is not too ugly. If needed, make both new. Sintered (oilite) bushings should be cut with a sharp tool so that the pores are not smeared closed where the oil must enter and exit them. Measure what it likely was before and then recreate the parts. Make sure that the shaft and bushing are getting oil...

 

[JPMacG]

I replaced the bushings on my lathe's countershaft. I got them from McMaster. They fit perfectly without modification. I think you can also get replacements from Clausing. At the same time, I replaced the countershaft with a shaft from McMaster. I had to cut it to length and mill in the Woodruff key slot. Here is a link that gives the part numbers. Your lathe may not be the same. link

 

[00harleydyna]

You can cut a bushing to fit the worn shaft, if it is not too ugly. If needed, make both new. Sintered (oilite) bushings should be cut with a sharp tool so that the pores are not smeared closed where the oil must enter and exit them. Measure what it likely was before and then recreate the parts. Make sure that the shaft and bushing are getting oil...

Thanks

 

[RJSakowski]

I replaced the bushings, and if I recall correctly the countershaft as well, on my 6" Atlas Craftsman. The hardest part was dealing with the setscrew burrs. As shaft and bearings go, this is a very simple setup. You could probably run on oiled wooden blocks. The nature of the countershaft creates wear at one side of the bushing only and belt tension will provide alignment. Bearing clearance, as long as it doesn't cause lubrication issues , is relatively non critical.

If the old bushing has worn to the extent of the shaft riding on the casting, you may have to rebore the casting and go to an oversized bushing. If you do remake the shat, Do yourself a favor and cut flat for the set or pockets for the set screws to engage. It will make future disassembly much easier.

sedit: I bought my bushings from McMaster Carr but you can probably find them at a well stocked hardware store.

 

[00harleydyna]

I replaced the bushings on my lathe's countershaft. I got them from McMaster. They fit perfectly without modification. I think you can also get replacements from Clausing. At the same time, I replaced the countershaft with a shaft from McMaster. I had to cut it to length and mill in the Woodruff key slot. Here is a link that gives the part numbers. Your lathe may not be the same. link

Did your bushings spin, if they did, did it wear the cast iron arm at all. I couldn't really tell what I was looking at last night because the previous owner painted the lathe and all I know is there was a good bit of play and my oiler wasn't taking oil. So maybe it's play between the shaft and the bushing and not the bushing and the casting.

 

[JPMacG]

They did not spin. They were good press fits into the casting. But they were worn where the shaft runs, and they had gouges from removing the shaft, which had burrs from the setscrews.

I agree with RJ above, if you replace the shaft be sure to make a flat for the pulley set screw. And if you go with a split compression clamp rather than the original set screw clamp you will avoid needing a second flat for that setscrew.

 

[00harleydyna]

I was able to take a closer look at it this evening and the bushing didn't spin. I found some bronze bushings in my hardware store. Is there any way to tell the difference between sintered bronze and solid bronze? They look kind of porous? What would be better for lubrication, the stock bushing or a bushing made with a oilway to the countershaft?

 

[RJSakowski]

I would expect that hardware store bushings would be the oil impregnated type. I just put a drop of oil on either side of the bushings occasionally. It will wick into the bushing. The nature of the countershaft is to create a gap to the rear and above the center line of the shaft.

 

[JPMacG]

OK, did you guys both catch the same fish? 00harleydyna, did you throw yours back and RJ caught it?

Sintered bronze ("Oilite") should weep oil if you place it on a sheet of white paper overnight. If you look at the sintered bushing under magnification you should be able to see the pores.

The original Atlas part is sintered, so I would stay with that myself. But only because I don't know any better and defer to the Atlas designers out of laziness.