- Apr 30, 2015
I think it requires a knife-edge style puller to remove the front cone bearing properly, although I have not done it on mine
Yes, that is correct. When in back gear, the pulley will make about six revolutions while the bull gear and spindle are making one.Another question, trying to figure out a few things with the back gear assembly that changes to direct drive/low gear. My understanding is you pull the pin on the main gear, then roll the eccentric to engage the two back gears to lower the speed. Is this correct?
There will be different levels of resistance between different settings on the QCGB, depending on how many gears are being used to get that feed rate. But I've already lost confidence to continue with this train of thought. I don't have a gearbox on mine, so maybe that idea is all wet. I do agree that you're gonna have to at least get down and look up in there, to see what's stopping your E selector. Maybe it's just full of chips and gunk. Oil gets pretty hard after a few decades of sitting around. It may just be that. Maybe just spray brake parts cleaner up in there, and see if anything changes. The standard application is one full can according to Mr. Lyle Peterson. My Youtube shop teacher.. I've also noticed that with some settings on the QCGB, it becomes difficult enough to rotate the spindle that it causes the belt to slip.
Standard V pulley, or link belt. It's been suggested not to be cheap when selecting the link belt. I've got enough faith in the recommendation to agree. While any brand new V belt of proper size will probably do the job equally well. As I've been putting mine back together, I've already realized that once all the extra hardware is on the headstock, I'm not going to want to take it back apart to get the spindle out and change the v belt. So, I'll more than likely be buying a link belt whenever the need for replacement is apparent.should I use a cog/notch style or standard V pulley?