Atlas lathe DC motor conversion, treadmill

looks pretty good from here. EDIT SEE Kernbigo's RESPONSE BELOW
it worked now, a potentiometer is probably all you will need to make her sing again!!!
congrats!

were you able to determine the output from the transformer?
 
Last edited:
The transformer is labeled 8 volts (maybe it was 8.5).
I was wondering if I could leave power to the 1st board too, and use only the small red lead as power to the pot?
 
yes, that would be another way of skinning the cat,
provided that the 1st board outputs power without input from the controller pushbuttons.
you can test the DC voltage out upon applying 115vac
 
A 5 k is what you want, as per my picture, you break the center wire (wiper) and install your motor start and stop switch, that way you don't have to zero the pot every time you can start off with the speed you left it at.Follow the picture and it will work.
 
A 5 k is what you want, as per my picture, you break the center wire (wiper) and install your motor start and stop switch, that way you don't have to zero the pot every time you can start off with the speed you left it at.Follow the picture and it will work.

OK, Then 5 k it will be.
Radio shack number for the 5 K is 271-1714.

Hate to ask dumb questions, the picture does show The Hot going to AC 1,
But would that do damage if AC1 and AC 2 were reversed?
Just wondering.
And also, do I still need a switch in the A/C 1 line, as I don't think I want to have power to the board all the time do I?

Power cord ground goes right to the metal case of the board; Right?
 
Last edited:
yes, you do want to be able to power off the board, put the switch in the black wire and run it to AC1 , Operationally there isn't any difference between ac1 and ac2 The ground does go to the case. Also bring a ground back to the case from the motor as well

Placing the switch on the center lead of the Pot leaves potential available to the speed diodes there is a possibility for damage to the board if connecting motor wires etc without shutting off the power. There is also a resistor that can be cut that removes the need to reset the speed to zero each time you power the off the board, that is what I did with mine,

I also leave my power/speed set and switch my forward to reverse back and forth when I'm power tapping on the mill or lathe and allow it to stall the motor then reverse to clean the tap. I vary the max power or speed with the size of the tap. The acceleration curve allows this to work without breaking the tap.

Art B
 
So you think it is best I do not cut the center wire then?
I was reading about that resistor,
RPS 3 I think it was.
So that does the same thing?
I might just try it with the default settings, I may not mind turning it all the way down to stop and start it. Kind of like a soft start if I understand correctly.
I like the soft start on my wood lathe, l have a VFD and a 3 phase motor.

That power taping sounds nice, I might have to get brave and try it.
Thank you.

yes, you do want to be able to power off the board, put the switch in the black wire and run it to AC1 , Operationally there isn't any difference between ac1 and ac2 The ground does go to the case. Also bring a ground back to the case from the motor as well

Placing the switch on the center lead of the Pot leaves potential available to the speed diodes there is a possibility for damage to the board if connecting motor wires etc without shutting off the power. There is also a resistor that can be cut that removes the need to reset the speed to zero each time you power the off the board, that is what I did with mine,

I also leave my power/speed set and switch my forward to reverse back and forth when I'm power tapping on the mill or lathe and allow it to stall the motor then reverse to clean the tap. I vary the max power or speed with the size of the tap. The acceleration curve allows this to work without breaking the tap.

Art B
 
The power tapping won't work if you have to start and stop it from zero, it will only work if you put a switch in the center leg of the pot or cut the resistor. when I power tap i'm actuall switchting forward to reverse it applies full power to the motor with only the torque limiting circuitry involved.

Art B
 
The power tapping won't work if you have to start and stop it from zero, it will only work if you put a switch in the center leg of the pot or cut the resistor. when I power tap i'm actuall switchting forward to reverse it applies full power to the motor with only the torque limiting circuitry involved.

Art B

OK, I see.
I actually got a tread mill free today, so I may not be buying the MC-60 controller.
You can read about it here if you wanted to.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/28732-Wanting-to-power-a-lead-screw/page4
This one has a magnetec motor, and a model KK6039T board.
I guess it's an OK board, they are selling higher on e bay than the mc-60.
I could not find much information on it.
 
[h=2]Re: Atlas lathe DC motor conversion, treadmill[/h]
A 5 k is what you want, as per my picture, you break the center wire (wiper) and install your motor start and stop switch, that way you don't have to zero the pot every time you can start off with the speed you left it at.Follow the picture and it will work. As i stated center wire on the pot (wiper)​
 
Back
Top