Atlas Refurb and Tooling

For my 15" Leblond I have 1 if not 2 tool holders. I did in fact buy the Craftsman for Fifty dollars last weekend and I bought the Leblond Regal for $900 2 weeks before that. It is going to stay where it is. Which is only 2 miles away. I need to get my shop ready to recieve the big old girl.
 
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So I Have the lathe broken down for cleaning. I have a bunch of pics to upload to show my progress but the forum keeps telling me that they are too large, so I have downsized them with an app but the only way to get them small enough turns them in to a lo res grainy mess. Any help would be great.
 
I use 'Pixlr Express' and 'Image Shrink lite' on my android thing...
 
Jamie,
Congrats on the new lathe. I think those 618s are the ideal tabletop lathe, and the only Atlas lathe worth keeping. I have had about 5 of them over the last 10 years. The current one will probably go to my son next month, if he wants it.

My $.02: First thing I do when I get an older lathe is sell off the lantern stuff and put a QCTP on it. Much less fussy, more rigid, just works better, whether HSS or carbide. I use both.

Which reminds me, I have about 80 lantern-style toolholders of all types, in 4 sizes which I was just about to put up for sale. I have every size except the 618, which are a special and unique size. They bring lots of money on ebay when they show up.
But if you need some for the leblond, give me the size of the shank or the number of the ones you have, and I'll see what I have to fit.
 
Jamie,

I'm trying to get some answers so that maybe I can answer your and several other members' questions. In the meantime, my first recommendation would be to get a decent camera and decent software. I'm partial to the better Nikon's but there are a few other brands that qualify. So-called smart phones don't qualify.

What are the file sizes of the JPG's you've tried to upload and of those that you say are grainy?

Robert D.
 
As a new(er) member you are limited as to how much you can upload. I don't have access to change your status to allow your up load. But you can email a picture to me an I can post it for you. My email is in my signature below.
 
Jamie,

I'm trying to get some answers so that maybe I can answer your and several other members' questions. In the meantime, my first recommendation would be to get a decent camera and decent software. I'm partial to the better Nikon's but there are a few other brands that qualify. So-called smart phones don't qualify.

What are the file sizes of the JPG's you've tried to upload and of those that you say are grainy?

Robert D.

My iphone takes incredible pictures and it is always in my pocket. My DSLR Nikon digital is 12.5 Mega Pixels. Much too large to post here. I don't have the option to take the pictures in a lower resolution to start off with. Then I down sized them in an app to 480x360 and that was still too large. The next resolution down and they may as well be colored with crayons. I think I may just upload them to a flicker or photobucket account and post the link on here
 
Currently I am cleaning ip the parts with a bit of 4 aught steel wool and a dab of Ed's Red or Kerosene. The chuck got a bath in my 9 Liter Ultra Sonic before going into the Evapo-Rust (can't say enough good stuff about Evapo rust!). All parts are going to get a thorough degrease with a combination of things then a bake in the oven at 200F then a wipe with Lacquer thinner before. Hammerite Hammered Gloss Black. Thinking of going with the new style linked belts, and bolting the whole shebang to a steel structure that I have pre assembled.
 
Somebody asked me recently for the recipe for Ed's Red gun cleaner. We have been making it for years, it works great and is a modern adaptation of a recipe found in Hatcher's Notebook. It does not specifically remove copper fouling, but does such a good job of removing everything that the copper and lead sticks to in the bore, a quick swab with Sweets 7.62 or JB bore bright is all that is needed.


I make it up by the gallon and soak my pistols in it for long periods with no harm. Google "Ed's Red" and you will find lots of info, but here it is in a nutshell.


1 quart of cheap Automatic Transmission Fluid (gives the distinctive red color, and is essentially hydraulic fluid, leaves a light coating of non-sticky lubrication behind)


1 quart of Mineral Spirits, Alaphatic or Odorless.


1 quart of Kerosene, usually found in the Camping / Sporting goods section of your local box store.


1 quart of Acetone, which is actually optional, it makes the cleaner a bit faster acting, but evaporates quickly and gives it a bit more odor. I have always included it.


DISCLAIMER: There are all sorts of finishes / materials used on modern firearms, test first to see if this cleaner is compatible with your parts. No cleaner is totally safe on wood, treat your wood good! Gentle cleaner, and a little lemon oil or furniture polish is what I use.


Step 1: Re-read above disclaimer.


Step 2: Buy a small Gallon gas can, Like they sell for Weed Whackers or Chainsaws. Write on it in big letters BORE CLEANER so you don't use it in the above tools.


Step 3: Mix the above ingredients in equal parts.


Step 4: Enjoy a great firearm/ tool/ part/ shop cleaner for about $20 bucks a gallon.


I bought a 9x13; brownie pan at wally world that came with a plastic cover. I can put a fully disassembled 1911 in the pan, fill her up until all the parts are submerged, and let them soak for a bit.


After the parts have soaked for a bit I don a pair of nitrile gloves, and fish out the parts, give them a quick wipe down, usually that is all that is needed, maybe a stubborn piece of gunk needs a tooth brush or a q-tip. Any solution left behind will provide a light lubrication and does not get sticky like WD-40 or some others.


After all the parts are out of the solution, I put a funnel in the gas can, throw a paper coffee filter in the funnel and pour it back into the can, it continues to work for a very long time, my current batch has been in use for nearly 2 years. When it gets too dirty for your liking it still works great on car parts, rusted bolts, etc. I wipe down the cast iron tables on my Table saw, Belt/Disc sander and drill press after use with a few drops, works great at removing that pitch / glue that blades and router bits accumulate over time, and keeps them from rusting, also great on hand tools and pliers.


Has not harmed the paint, on sights or the Fiber Optic inserts after days of soaking, I of course remove the wood grips. I fill a squeeze bottle with the unused, clean solution and keep it in my range bag works great on a patch, or to wipe down a gun after shooting.


Give it a try! You'll thank me.

 
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