Attach stainless panel to cupboard front

[DavidR8]

Hey folks, it's me.
Looking for a bit of guidance....helping my in-laws with a bit of a kitchen update.
I need to attach a 16ga stainless panel 8" wide by 30" long to a false drawer front of a melamine cabinet.
Considering using silicone or contact cement but I have no idea if either is really suitable for the task.
Also considered Gorilla brand double-sided tape but I'd like there to be no gap if possible.
Thoughts oh wise ones?

 

[RJSakowski]

Contact adhesive should do the job. It bonds well the melamine and shouldn't be an issue with stainless. I would use the solvent type rather than the water based.

 

[DavidR8]

Contact adhesive should do the job. It bonds well the melamine and shouldn't be an issue with stainless. I would use the solvent type rather than the water based.

Thanks, assume clean the stainless well? Acetone maybe to remove all oils?

 

[Nogoingback]

Construction adhesive?

 

[DavidR8]

Construction adhesive?

Right.
That’s a good idea too.
I wish it was sold in small quantities.

 

[RJSakowski]

Thanks, assume clean the stainless well? Acetone maybe to remove all oils?

Yes, I always wipe down with acetone. If you haven't worked with contact adhesive before, a few tips. Typically, you apply to both pieces and let dry tack free. I use a separator of some sort to keep the two pieces from sticking prematurely. Stainless steel or aluminum rods work well. Start at one corner, aligning first the corner and then the edge. Set the edge and slowly work toward the other end, pressing from the center out and sliding the rods out of the way as you go. When the sheet is in place, go over the entire surface to push any air out. A rubber faced mallet works well for forcing good contact.

I haven't bonded stainless in that fashion but with laminate, I always cut slightly oversize to allow for any misalignment and trim when the bond is completed. Carbide edge trimmers are made for a router which should be able to handle the stainless. Otherwise careful hand work with a file will work.

Before tackling the actual job, you may want to mock up a practice piece to perfect your technique.

 

[Reddinr]

You may want to rough up the backside of the stainless with coarse sandpaper to increase the surface area for the glue.
And as RJ said, make sure you get the alignment right if you are using contact cement. Once it is stuck, it's stuck!

 

[C-Bag]

My experience with contact cement is it’s the best for not showing. Where other means except maybe the double sided tape is as construction cement is unless you spread it evenly and thin it will cause the surface to pucker. Most times this is not a big deal but with stainless or any highly reflective surface you’ll see where the glue is underneath.

 

[DavidR8]

My experience with contact cement is it’s the best for not showing. Where other means except maybe the double sided tape is as construction cement is unless you spread it evenly and thin it will cause the surface to pucker. Most times this is not a big deal but with stainless or any highly reflective surface you’ll see where the glue is underneath.

This is a good point. The stainless has a #4 finish so while it's not polished there's definitely a reflection.

 

[7milesup]

I echo what RJ said.