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Attaching Drill Chuck to a Ram End.

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basenjib123

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#1
I need to attach a drill chuck to the ram of a hydraulic press. What would be the best way to go about this? Thank you.
 

Superburban

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#2
Depends. Do you need it to be able to rotate, as in using if for tapping threads? Or is rigid ok? do you need it removable? What equipment do you have at your disposal to build an adapter with?
 

basenjib123

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#3
Thanks for the reply. Ok...here is what I want to do with it. I need to push pins out of old fishing reel hinges and gear trains. I have tried the old hammer and punch deal with limited success, plus I don't like hammering away on those parts...SOOOO I thought if I could mount punches into a chuck I could press them out instead. I would prefer it removable for other jobs, etc. I thought a magnetic set up might work but I'm afraid the magnet will shatter under the pressure. I don't have much for equipment at all and I would likely have to have somebody do it for me, I just wanted to be somewhat educated so I don't get ripped off by somebody. Thank you very much..Joe.
 

Aukai

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#4
Would you be able to drill, and tap the ram, or the plate/beam it pushes on?
 

JimDawson

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#5
There are a number of chucks for electric drills that thread on. Normally 1/2-20 or 3/8-24 thread. You would have to drill & tap the ram for the proper thread, then just use a piece of all-thread or cut off a bolt to use as a stud.
 

basenjib123

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#6
Would you be able to drill, and tap the ram, or the plate/beam it pushes on?
Yes I could do that myself. Thank you for the replies. How deep should I drill into the ram? Do you think the magnet is a bad idea?
 

mikey

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#7
Wow, fishing reels, hydraulic press - I would be very concerned about damaging something. How about using a small arbor press? That would allow you to control the applied pressure much better and you can use magnets to stick the proper punch or pin to the ram.
 

francist

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#8
The magnet is not a great idea, they tend to be quite brittle, especially the rare earth type commonly available now. That being said, you're pressing shafts out of fishing reels -- how much force are we really talking about here anyway? Probably not a lot, and in that case the magnet may not be at great risk. It would require a very flat interface though, and the potential for getting off-center and popping out of the assembly at the least opportune moment would be a bit scary.

Thinking about my hydraulic press at home, I think the end is hardened somewhat. If I were to contemplate a similar thing for my own use I suspect I would make an adapter (an suitably sized iron pipe cap, maybe) that I could marry with the chuck (drill through for a bolt or thread depending on the chuck) and that would slid over the outside of the ram a short distance. I could use a set screw or two in from the side to hold it from falling off.

-frank
 

basenjib123

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#9
Great replies you guys, Thanks! Yeah, I know the hydraulic press is a bit much for the fishing reel deal but I need to get a press anyhow for other projects so I figured it would be best to get something bigger than an arbor press. These pins have been pressed into aluminum and brass parts and in most cases have been there undisturbed for 50 plus years (most guys don't want to deal with them). I suspect the difference in material (the pins are steel) is also making them difficult to move, not to mention corrosion from saltwater over the years in some cases. Its amazing how much of a beating these pins can take and still not move! LOL!! ....Thanks again!
 
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Latinrascalrg1

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#10
For the purpose you stated i would use a close fitting pipe to slip over the ram shaft and be held with shims and set screws and then connect the drill chuck onto the other end of that pipe. It would be a quick change setup without needing to modify the Press Ram . It will be much easier to weld a nut or stud or drill/tap the pipe then the hardened ram.


I didn't read the entire thread before i posted and going back I See Francist suggested the same idea.
 

mikey

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#11
You know, the more I think about this the more nervous I get about using so much force on a reel or reel parts. I've worked on saltwater reels for more than 50 years and have not seen a pin that I couldn't move with a good pin punch and a bench block or a shaped wooden finger to provide solid support under the part. Many of the old Garcias and reels of that vintage have cast aluminum baskets; pressure will crack them. Your call, of course, but I would be very careful about using a press of any kind.
 

basenjib123

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#12
Yes, I agree I can get nearly any other brand reel pins out but these Dam Quick Reels seem to be especially difficult to budge. I have beaten the hell out of one here and it will not move.
 

whitmore

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#13
How deep should I drill into the ram? Do you think the magnet is a bad idea?
The usual hydraulic ram would be awkward to drill accurately: making a slip-on cap for the (presumably accurate) ram
would be straightforward, though. Ideally, the cap would have a 1/2-20 (for 1/2" Jacobs chucks) or 3/8-24
(for 3/8" Jacobs chucks) threaded extension (or just drill/tap it to take a threaded stud).

The magnet might attract a chip and seat the chuck at an angle; not recommended.

I've used rivet sets that came with a 1/2" shank, presumably to go into a 1/2" socket, which is cheaper
than a chuck and easy to make. For small-force work, small such items can be pressed using a drill press
which already has a chuck... or a setscrew holder can attach to an arbor or hydraulic press. If your
pins have a dimple in the center, such a rivet set may have been used on them already (drilling them
out would work, though).
 

mikey

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#14
Yes, I agree I can get nearly any other brand reel pins out but these Dam Quick Reels seem to be especially difficult to budge. I have beaten the hell out of one here and it will not move.
Yeah, I have several Quick reels. Problem is that the pins get stuck by corrosion. I've been meaning to try ACF-50 for this but haven't done it yet. I did work on a Quick some years back and we used a soldering pen to gently heat the area around the pin and that broke the corrosion loose and the pin came out but I have to admit that the thought of a bigger hammer did enter my mind. If the reel belonged to me, no problem but it didn't; it belonged to a friend so care was needed. I feel your pain on this one, believe me.
 

SubtleHustle

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#15
Wouldn't a large C-clamp work? Or am I missing something?
 

basenjib123

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#16
I tried a clamp and vice methods ...didn't budge it.
 

basenjib123

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#17
Yeah, I have several Quick reels. Problem is that the pins get stuck by corrosion. I've been meaning to try ACF-50 for this but haven't done it yet. I did work on a Quick some years back and we used a soldering pen to gently heat the area around the pin and that broke the corrosion loose and the pin came out but I have to admit that the thought of a bigger hammer did enter my mind. If the reel belonged to me, no problem but it didn't; it belonged to a friend so care was needed. I feel your pain on this one, believe me.
I hear ya there. If these reel weren't built so well and nearly indestructable I wouldn't bother but I think they are worth it. You just don't see workmanship like this any longer.
 

Superburban

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#18
I'm not familiar with the reels, but I would think a hydraulic press would be tough to control, and hold the reel in place to keep the pins aligned.

Have you considered an arbor press? Or even a bench drill press might work better, and also do great for drilling. Both would allow you to control the force applied better then a hyd press.
 

Nogoingback

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#19
Have you tried a penetrating fluid like Kroil? Getting some into the reel and then using some heat should help break things
loose. Hydraulic presses have no "feel" and would be too brutal. A small arbor press should work if you're gentle,
proceed carefully and use pins or arbors sized for your parts.
 

pontiac428

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#20
Like superburban said, use the drill press! It is a press. It has a chuck mounted to it. You could make all the fixturing you'd ever need for your project and fit it into a drill press vise. Why make it harder than that?
 

Latinrascalrg1

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#21
For what its worth and assuming you have access to an air compressor, have you considered maybe an air hammer fitted with a "Needle Punch" to get the more stubborn pins moving in a more controllable manner? I would think a cheap $25ish HF air chisel/hammer would be up to the job but then again I Cannot say that I am familiar with the type of Reel or the repair work you are doing so I could not say for sure that it will work.
 

basenjib123

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#22
I did try the drill press idea but I got nervous with the amount of force I was using and backed off, I didn't want to risk damaging the press...its not exactly the best quality. Thanks for all the replies. I will try to post a couple of photos at some point and perhaps that will make it clearer to what I'm dealing with. Thanks again.
 

pontiac428

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#23
Curious, how big is this pin? Do you have a pic of the reels? I'd really like to know the scale of this effort!
 

basenjib123

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#24
Curious, how big is this pin? Do you have a pic of the reels? I'd really like to know the scale of this effort!
I will get some pictures up later on this evening...thanks for all the help.
 

basenjib123

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#25
Posted Photos below...
 
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basenjib123

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#26
Okay I was able to get some pictures downloaded. These show the pins on the handle and on the gear assembly. As you can see there is not much room to work. The pin holding the handle measures 5/8"L and the diameter mics out at 2.553MM. You may be able to see the I did some damage pounding that pin out of the handle something I would like to avoid. Thanks again. IMG_0401.JPG IMG_0403.jpg IMG_0406.jpg IMG_0407.jpg IMG_0400.jpg IMG_0409.jpg
 
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basenjib123

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#27
Not much room to work on the gear pin.
 

Superburban

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#28
I think your biggest issue, is with holding everything steady enough to get the pin out.

Not knowing what all you have, I would suggest a deep well socket held in a vise, and use it to support the reel, while you holed the reel, and a punch with one hand, and a hammer in the other.

If you have a drill press vise, I would then mount the deep well socket in the DP vise, and set it on the drill press, with the punch held in the chuck. Then you can hold the reel with one hand, and work the quill feed with the other. You can get lots of pressure and control that way.

For more force, and control, I would cut a punch working end down to just enough to get things started, and then use another to finish getting the pin out.

Still against the drill press, I would then look at an arbor press. You could cut your punch handles down to 1 to 2 inches. Drill a 1/2 to 1&1/2 inch hole in the working end of the arbor press, the you can just hold the punches enough to get things lined up, and then things will stay in place. Still using a deep well socket, or piece of pipe to support the bottom side of the reel.

Think outside the box. think about holding & supporting the bottom side. Then think of how to get the pressure on the pin. Look around, and see what you have available to accomplish this.
 

basenjib123

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#29
I think your biggest issue, is with holding everything steady enough to get the pin out.

Not knowing what all you have, I would suggest a deep well socket held in a vise, and use it to support the reel, while you holed the reel, and a punch with one hand, and a hammer in the other.

If you have a drill press vise, I would then mount the deep well socket in the DP vise, and set it on the drill press, with the punch held in the chuck. Then you can hold the reel with one hand, and work the quill feed with the other. You can get lots of pressure and control that way.

For more force, and control, I would cut a punch working end down to just enough to get things started, and then use another to finish getting the pin out.

Still against the drill press, I would then look at an arbor press. You could cut your punch handles down to 1 to 2 inches. Drill a 1/2 to 1&1/2 inch hole in the working end of the arbor press, the you can just hold the punches enough to get things lined up, and then things will stay in place. Still using a deep well socket, or piece of pipe to support the bottom side of the reel.

Think outside the box. think about holding & supporting the bottom side. Then think of how to get the pressure on the pin. Look around, and see what you have available to accomplish this.

Some great suggestions there and you are absolutely right getting everything to stay still is very difficult. Thanks.
 

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#30
Even if you can route out a slot in some hardwood so that the handle fits then drill a hole in the center for your pin? Trying to use a socket is gonna have you tilting all over the place. Best would be to mill out a pocket in some aluminum and do as above. I would use a arbor press as powerful with more sensitivity and control.
 
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