[CNC] Axis Backlash and Remedies

JimDawson

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''I'm having a bit of a problem with my machine: When cutting a circle, my Y axis dimension is always 0.002 smaller than the X axis dimension and this problem is getting worse, it used to be 0.001'' difference. When cutting a rectangle, the X and Y dimensions are always correct to +/- 0.0001''. I can't find any backlash in the system, and the math that calculates the circle seems to be correct in the program. I suspect a servo tuning problem, but not sure. I need to take a deep dive into this to figure out. For the moment, I can bore the critical dimensions to the correct size in a second operation, I left them undersize to accommodate the known error.'' From https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/press-feeder.82699/#post-725777

Well it turns out the above statement is not quite true. I rechecked the backlash and found about 0.004'' in the X axis, but only in the middle of the travel. At about 80% travel I can only measure about 0.0006'' backlash (guess where most of the work is done). The maximum backlash I can find in the ballscrew thrust bearing is about 0.0005'' which contributes to the 0.0006'' I measured at the 80% travel. The Y axis only seems to have about 0.001'' backlash, and this seems to be in the ball screw and not the thrust bearing. The way that I have been getting away with this is because with linear scales on the table, the system automatically compensates for backlash to the degree that it can. But there is no substitute for a tight machine. On linear moves the system has time to compensate for the error, but when cutting a circle, there isn't time to completely compensate as the direction changes when cutting around the corner. Slowing down the feed rate does help and is what I may do for the very short term. I did confirm that the program is correctly calculating the trig for generating the circle, it seems to be dead on.

What is the best option to fix this problem?

The ball screw is obviously worn in the center of travel, but not so much toward the ends, so reballing with oversize balls in its current condition is not really a good option. I would wind up with way too much preload on the ends.

I can probably retune the servos to tighten up the reaction time, but at best this is a temporary band aid fix. This needs to be done anyway, so I'll do it. This will solve another small problem I'm having with surface finish.

Have the ballscrew rebuilt. ~$600, and in that case I would send in both the X and Y screws. So something in the $1000 range for both. The problem here is that the machine will be down for about 10 days, shipping + 5 days repair time. And I can't really afford to have the machine down for that long right now. Maybe finish the current project then repair the machine. This is probably the best option, and will give me some time to do some other maintenance on the machine.

Buy new ballscrews from Thomson or Hiwin. About the same price as a rebuild, but I would have to turn the ends fit the bearings, and ballscrews are hard, not an easy job. The advantage is that the machine would only be down for a day and I would buy double nuts.

Or I could add a backlash compensator, an air cylinder to preload and bias the table in one direction. Would most likely cost about $300 or so for parts. It would work, but not really a good option.

Decisions.... Decisions :confused 3:
 
If it were me, I'd go for the new Thomson or Hiwin screw. If you were really concerned about the machining, you could have them machine it for you at an upcharge. I've done some limited machining on ballscrews before and really didn't have a terribly hard (no pun intended) time cutting it with normal carbide inserts. CBN is an option too.
 
Yeah, I have machined a couple ballscrews. I think on the good ones they hard on the outside, but a bit softer below the threads. The ones I did were hard all the way through and a bit difficult to machine. Chinese imports.
 
I've machined screws from Roton (US) and found the hardness to drop sharply once you're below the root of the thread. Hardest part if I remember was indicating the screw for runout.
 
Well Jim, I think the best option would be for you to just buy a new machine and ship that old piece of junk out to me for disposal :)
But, since you're probably not likely to go that route, I think I would go with the first option of using the machine to finish your current work load and then send in your ball screws to be rebuilt. One reason I would tend to go that route is because I know how my luck goes at times and I could forsee the possibility of having to turning down those new ball screws to fit your bearings going sideways for some unforseen reason and ending up with even more down time.
Just my two cents.
Ted
 
Jim,

There are a few things I've learned about you over the years.
One of those things is that you are not against having a decent stock of new, replacement parts ready on the shelf for when you need them.
Another thing is that even if you would not wear out the next set of ball screws, then your son might.
Based on those I'd suggest doing two of your listed options.......

First, get a replacement set of ball screws on order.
When those come in, and after the current project, get them installed.

Then on the slow-path, send the worn set out to be rebuilt.
When they come back, put 'em on the shelf.

Of course this comes with a couple caveats:
-it is your money not mine that I'm spending, and
-only you know how long you intend to keep doing this and how fast you would wear out a new set of ball screw.

How long have the current set been installed?

-brino
 
I have made my decision. I'm going to finish my current project, about 3 weeks, then send the ballscrews in for rebuild, both the X and Y. While those are in process, it's time for another head teardown so I can find the noise(s) that's driving me nuts. I know part of it is coming from the idler shaft area, and I think part of it is in the quill splines. Then there is the bent motor shaft, not sure how that one happened, pretty sure it's been there since I bought the machine. I may replace the motor, or just buy a new armature.

I get all this done and I should be good for another 30 years. :)
 
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