Balanacing new 6-jaw Chuck

bpratl

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Last week I purchased a new 6-jaw adjust-tru scroll chuck for my G0602, which I am very pleased with, until I had to run it above 1000 RPM and noticed a nasty imbalance. A web search on balancing chucks suggested I try a automobile wheel balancer and since I own a automobile repair shop I gave it a try. I mounted the jaws of the chuck on the spin balancer arbor together with the backing plate and programed it as a 6" rim x 4.5" wide tire. I was able to balance it within a .1 of a gram which eliminated all of the vibration at 1800 RPM.
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Thanks for posting this. Chuck balance is one of those things near-and-dear to me and I've done a lot of messing around with static balancing and usually get decent results. It's good to know this method works as well. Some dynamic wheel balancers suggest adding weights on both sides of the tire in offset locations. Did this test suggest such a correction? Also, did you happen to run the chuck at all speeds from low to high to see if it's OK through the entire range? I have one chuck that is fine at all speeds except a range between 600 and 750 RPM.


Ray
 
. Some dynamic wheel balancers suggest adding weights on both sides of the tire in offset locations. Did this test suggest such a correction? Also, did you happen to run the chuck at all speeds from low to high to see if it's OK through the entire range? I have one chuck that is fine at all speeds except a range between 600 and 750 RPM.Ray

The chuck was balanced in the static mode which gave me the option on the placement of the wheel weight . When balanced I did run the lathe at various speeds ( 3 phase VFD) from 30 to 2000 RPM with no vibration noted. As a test, I used adhesive backed wheel weights, but I plan on redoing the balancing by drilling the backing plate, because I fair of getting wacked, in the face, with a lead wheel weight.
 
Pretty cool. How many weights do you have to add & what brand chuck is it?
 
Pretty cool. How many weights do you have to add & what brand chuck is it?

It took .5 oz. of a stick on wheel weight with a little modification and I was surprised it took that much for a new chuck. The chuck was purchased from grizzly ($350.00) which I find to be very repeatable and runs true after a tedious alignment/adjustment. Bob
 
The chuck was balanced in the static mode which gave me the option on the placement of the wheel weight . When balanced I did run the lathe at various speeds ( 3 phase VFD) from 30 to 2000 RPM with no vibration noted. As a test, I used adhesive backed wheel weights, but I plan on redoing the balancing by drilling the backing plate, because I fair of getting wacked, in the face, with a lead wheel weight.

Oh yes, good idea about removing the adhesive weights. I was going to suggest that but, I suspected as much and figured you'd convert to a permanent attachment. Try to put something with rounded edges so you don't accidently open-up your finger or palm. -Makes me wonder also if drilling a divot (removing weight) in the counter-location would be good. BTW, if you drill divots, make them small enough that you cannot get a fingertip caught in a hole.


Ray
 
The chuck was balanced in the static mode which gave me the option on the placement of the wheel weight . When balanced I did run the lathe at various speeds ( 3 phase VFD) from 30 to 2000 RPM with no vibration noted. As a test, I used adhesive backed wheel weights, but I plan on redoing the balancing by drilling the backing plate, because I fair of getting wacked, in the face, with a lead wheel weight.

So if I get your gist you intend to drill out material from the backplate to balance? I'm assuming you would do that 180* from where you added the temp weight? That would be right wouldn't it? A guy could probably fool around with those lead stickers and do some trial and error balancing couldn't he? Then maybe turn his solution 180* and drill out until the chuck weighed out the lead amount less than the original weight.:thinking: What do you think?
 
So if I get your gist you intend to drill out material from the backplate to balance? I'm assuming you would do that 180* from where you added the temp weight? That would be right wouldn't it? A guy could probably fool around with those lead stickers and do some trial and error balancing couldn't he? Then maybe turn his solution 180* and drill out until the chuck weighed out the lead amount less than the original weight.:thinking: What do you think?

You are correct, the above procedure would work or you could save the drilled swirls and weigh them as they should equal the stick on weight and of course the metal removed has to be 180* from the stick-on weight location.
 
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