Bartered and Bought

ACHiPo

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2017
Messages
1,234
Kurt DX6 vise arrived Friday. Got it squared and trammed in today.
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A very generous hobby machinist gave me this clamping kit...
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...and this facing head...
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...and this Criterion 203 boring head...
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...these spring parallels...
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...and.this Albrecht chuck (needs to be rebuilt, but came with replacement bearings)...
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I bought a few things from a retired machinist as well:
Slitting saw arbor with a few blades
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A cute little lead hammer AND a mold to remake the head when it gets too messed up to use.
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I also bought a few used HSS endmills from the guy, as well as a couple vise stops and a 0.0005 B&S Best Test indicator kit.
 
As to the lead hammer, the ideal material is automotive wheel weights, they are just the right hardness; pure lead is much too soft; the antimony that hardens the lead is somewhat lost every time the alloy is remelted, but a high alloy of lead antimony is available to recharge the alloy occasionally.
 
John,
Thanks. That's good information.
Evan
 
Nice tools. The Dx6 looks awesome. The Criterion looks tight and should clean up nicely. I would start with Purple Power cleaner and white scotch brite pads. The Albrecht looks good too. It's just missing the knurled collar, which you can buy from Msc for about $27.00
There are some good write ups here on refurbishing Criterion DBL's and Albrecht chucks. If you need any info, let us know.
 
Nice tools. The Dx6 looks awesome. The Criterion looks tight and should clean up nicely. I would start with Purple Power cleaner and white scotch brite pads. The Albrecht looks good too. It's just missing the knurled collar, which you can buy from Msc for about $27.00
There are some good write ups here on refurbishing Criterion DBL's and Albrecht chucks. If you need any info, let us know.
The chuck is complete. I removed the collar before taking the pic. I found Mikey’s procedure and a couple videos. I used 0000 stainless wool with CRC to clean up the chuck and head. I used 120 grit wet/dry on the inside of the hood, but there are still witness marks from the jaws. Will give it some more before I reassemble.

I may soak the clamp parts and facing head to get rid of the surface rust.
 
On the Albrecht. I wouldn't sand the inside of the hood too much. You only need a little "tooth", and the witness marks don't have to totally disappear for the chuck to work. I'm sure it's fine now. The marks on the hood are from a little wear and shouldn't affect the function. Mikeys' instructions are very good and on point.
 
Emilio,
Thanks! I definitely wanted to stop before doing any damage. Looking forward to getting boring bars for my boring head so I can finish the clamps and get the chuck back together.
Evan
 
Nice collection of start up tooling , wish I could find a nice used criterion with the r8 adapter. Love the drill chucks by Albrecht , don't use but a drop of oil inside they tend to overtighten on there own. At one point when I needed a lead hammer I couldn't afford it so I built my own mold and knurled pipe with a pin to hold the lead on when hardened. It's been used and remelted lead wheel weights for thirty years . I love the vise just a dream for me but sure is purty YUPP. Good luck your starting out well.
 
I would use SuperLube syn grease and oil only on the bearing balls, very light oil. It's all in Mikey's terrific document.
Grease or oil in the wrong places will render the chuck ineffectual. It won't clamp and stay closed on the drills.
Also, never bottom out the drills, IOW, touch off then bring the drill down so there is space for the jaws pull the drill "Up".,
and have the ability to remove the drill later.
 
I would use SuperLube syn grease and oil only on the bearing balls, very light oil. It's all in Mikey's terrific document.
Grease or oil in the wrong places will render the chuck ineffectual. It won't clamp and stay closed on the drills.
Also, never bottom out the drills, IOW, touch off then bring the drill down so there is space for the jaws pull the drill "Up".,
and have the ability to remove the drill later.
I've heard good things about SuperLube. I don't have any, but I do have clock grease and oils, along with the tools to apply them sparingly, so hopefully that will work.
 
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