Batteries

I've got a cheap Nikon camera that eats double As like pup-a-roni sticks. I take 'em out.
What gets me is when the device has an internal minimum voltage limit below which it won't run even if the batts still have some life left.
Argg.

I have one like that, Nikon Coolpix L22. Ate batteries, sometimes only a dozen or so pics and throw the batteries out, until I found it depends a lot on what batteries you use.

I found even the most expensive of the major brands rarely gave good life. The only ones that gave good life were the very expensive "camera " batteries Kodak and other brands, but generally only available in camera shops and very expensive.

Then one day in desperation I tried some rechargables Nimh type and found some worked and some didn't, Finally I got onto some enekeep by powertech 2000mAh. They worked really well and I have taken thousands of photos with these.

Recently I upgraded to eneloop by Panasonic 2100mAh and they are excellent. You will also need a suitable charger mine is from Powertech and will take 2 or 4 cells at a time AA or AAA full charge in 2 hours, and runs off 12v dc or mains power with a multi voltage power pack 100V to 250V, great for travelling.

Unfortunately I recently broke the little plastic lug that holds the battery door closed. So I'm experimenting with some epoxy goo to rebuild it. The little camera still takes great pics.
 
I have to put in a good word for the iGaging Absolute Origin Calipers. It was ordered on EBAY about two years ago and I use it a lot and
the battery has yet to be replaced. Sometimes I find it left on for undetermined periods of time. It uses a 3 volt CR2032 lithium battery.
Mine is a six inch version and at present they are available for just under $40. It's nicely crafted as well.

Ditto on the good word for the iGaging Absolute origin cal. have been using it for roughly a year now and it is still on original battery. Good thing because the sliding door to the battery looks fragile and must be opened or closed very carefully.
 
This tells me I'm going to be careful buying. I've got a HF special; Pittsburg 6 inch; that I've had for at least a couple of years.
Still has the original LR44 battery. And always matches my Starrett mike. BUT I've got an older one that flashes random numbers
when you turn it on - totally useless - until I can figure out what to do with it. I hate throwing away tools!

Jim Korman

Instead of throwing it Away why not pull it apart and clean it, it may just work again. better than just throwing it away.
 
I rechecked the current draw on my calipers. My original statement of 200 microamps was in error.

I have one pair with a black scale cover that came from an auto supply store, perhaps fifteen years ago. It draws 13 microamps, on or off. I also have a 12" pair with black scale cover, purchased from HF and it also draws 13 microamps on or off. A third pair labeled PT draws 7 microamps on or off.
However, the two latest pair are from HF and draw 13 microamps on but only 1.4 microamps off.

They were picked up at one of HF's sales for $10 each and machining was crude to be charitable. I was able to stone the beam to the point where operation is good but one of the calipers had a quirk of jumping multiples of .200" in use so it was abandoned. But for $10, what the hey? These two were bought around three years ago and almost certainly, the calipers may have changed since but if my latest calipers are any indication, they seemed to have resolved the short battery life issue.

Calipers will undoubtedly draw a higher current while in use, specifically during the times that the jaw is moving but for most hobbyists, this should be a relatively low impact on battery life. At 13 microamps draw, an Energizer 357 battery should give 10,000 hrs of service or just over a year. At an off current draw, the life should be ten times that at which point the shelf life of the battery will probably be the killer.

I don't believe that I have ever seen the kind of battery life predicted. The reason most likely has to do with the minimum operating voltage of the calipers. A cutoff voltage of 1.35 volts would shorten the useful life by as much as 50%. To that end, the EPX76 battery is superior to the 357 or the LR44 battery because of its flat discharge curve. I have included data sheets for the three battery types which are applicable to most, if not all, of the Chinese calipers.
357.JPGEPX76.JPGLR44.JPG
 
I'm sorry but this thread makes me laugh because I have a set of digital Mitutoyo's that have been in my toolbox with a dead battery for 10+ years. I have a mechanical Starrett that I use all the time. No battery obviously. The funny part is that I JUST YESTERDAY bought a 357 battery to resurect the Mitutoyo's. I guess I will be reminded why I don't like digitals really soon....:rolleyes:
 
I'm sorry but this thread makes me laugh because I have a set of digital Mitutoyo's that have been in my toolbox with a dead battery for 10+ years. I have a mechanical Starrett that I use all the time. No battery obviously. The funny part is that I JUST YESTERDAY bought a 357 battery to resurect the Mitutoyo's. I guess I will be reminded why I don't like digitals really soon....:rolleyes:


Have had my 6" Mitutoyo for 8-9 yrs, and finnally replaced the battery last year. Gets used all the time when I'm home, but then sits for 4-6 months when I''m gone in the winter. Maybe they like the dry climate here, I have pretty good luck with batteries in general. Mike
 
I have to put in a good word for the iGaging Absolute Origin Calipers. It was ordered on EBAY about two years ago and I use it a lot and
the battery has yet to be replaced. Sometimes I find it left on for undetermined periods of time. It uses a 3 volt CR2032 lithium battery.
Mine is a six inch version and at present they are available for just under $40. It's nicely crafted as well.
My battery has lasted more than 3 years, maybe 4 or 5, ... So I agree on the Igaging .. plus I like the big numbers. I got it because of the fractional readout for WoodWorking, but I don't like the 1/128 of an inch resolution.. it's too fine and confusing for WoodWorking, so It's relegated to the machine shop, and it is nice. For woodworking I picked up an Igaging dial on top of my HF dial. they both read fractions real nicely. Anyway enough of me yammering.
 
I have a used Mitutoyo analog dial caliper that is my go-to favorite, and a Harbor Freight analog dial caliper that I carry to work. I use the HF digital calipers as scribes to mark lines for turning and cut-off. :grin:

GG
 
I have a Starrett No. 721 that I bought in the 1980’s and used to kill batteries bad. Then I decided to try sliding the battery cover open about 1”. I haven’t replaced batteries in 3 or 4 years. Don’t remove the 2032’s, just slide the cover open.


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i can't catch a break with battery powered devices.:bang head:
every digital caliper, digital micrometer, and digital indicator i own requires the batteries to be changed- before i use them:cussing:

i usually just grab my cheapie HF 6" dial calipers or my Mauser Vernier calipers, because they don't need batteries
 
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