Bead Blast Rust or Use Rust Converter?

Electrolysis is the way to go but never use stainless steel as an electrode, it releases chromium which is toxic.

For what it's worth, I use 1 pound of Lye, 2 cups of washing soda and 8-10 ounces of unscented Jet Dry in a 40 gallon Brute trash can 3/4 full of water. The Lye helps remove oil and paint and the Jet Dry acts as a wetting agent. This solution is less aggressive than Purple Power but it's still caustic so I do wear goggles.
 
Electrolysis is the way to go but never use stainless steel as an electrode, it releases chromium which is toxic.

For what it's worth, I use 1 pound of Lye, 2 cups of washing soda and 8-10 ounces of unscented Jet Dry in a 40 gallon Brute trash can 3/4 full of water. The Lye helps remove oil and paint and the Jet Dry acts as a wetting agent. This solution is less aggressive than Purple Power but it's still caustic so I do wear goggles.

Just curious. I've never thought about using a wetting agent on a submerged piece. Does it make a difference and if so, how do you tell? I haven't had any issues with electrolysis but if something will make it faster then it might be worth a go. I will forgo the lye, though.
 
I don't remember where I saw it, the guy who posted it up had a very large/hard core setup. I was just getting started with electrolysis and it seemed to make sense. It's the only way I've done it so I cant say if it's faster.
 
Okay, thanks. I'll look into it and see if there is anything to support a wetting agent.
 
I'm interested in what you find out. I used that first can full for two years or so until hurricane Florence flooded my shop. If it's not worth the effort/money I'll skip it when I set back up.
 
Might be a while before I do an electrolysis project and have a chance to test it but I'll try to remember to post the results.

I found it interesting that a wetting agent was an essential component in the patented electrolytic process back in 1947. Of course, they used all sorts of caustic chemicals in the original process but it seems that a wetting agent was important. Here is what they had to say about it:

The wetting agent which is preferably a sulfonated oil type of compound or a sulfated alcohol, improves the penetrating power of the solution so that the composition tends to penetrate even into most minute crevices or intersticcs in the article, thereby facilitating the removal of rust or other unwanted surface impurities from the article. `It also has a tendency to decrease the danger of a back E. M. F. in the .solution during electrolysis since it decreases the surface tension of. the liquid and thereby enables the gases produced to pass readily from the solution. The wetting agent must, of course, not be affected by the presence of nascent oxygen and hydrogen inthe bath, it must be stable at the high pH value of the solution and it must be efficient and have a long operating life.

I'll have to look into a compatible wetting agent that works with the stuff I use but it might just improve things, I dunno'. Whoever came up with the idea to use it in the current home shop was thinking, though!
 
The wetting agent which is preferably a sulfonated oil type of compound or a sulfated alcohol

So, like a peated scotch then? :)

More seriously, looks like sulfonated castor oil would work. I'll see if I can track some down - have a lot of electrolysis to do, but had to dump the solution on Sunday when the temps dropped down to 18 F. I do the electrolysis in the (unheated) barn, so it's possible I won't be able to try again until April if last year's winter is anything to go by.
 
Jeez, 18 degrees! Its currently 78 degrees here and sunny. Winter in Hawaii is a different thing!
 
Thanks for the research, I was beginning to doubt myself. I thought I had bookmarked the site but I cant find it. The guy who started the thread was serious about rust removal and possibly getting ready to start a business. His tank was probably 300 gallons or more with carbon plates every foot or so and the two long sides were capped with copper bars. Massive power supplies were ready to go and the guy stopped posting before the end of his project, I think the thread died 4 years ago.
 
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