Bench Mill choices

I run the MT2 in mine but there are some MT2 ER32 collet chucks out there if you prefer. Mine was modified with a self ejecting spindle, so the MT2 collets are no issue, no beating on the drawbar needed to get them free. Only benefit I see to ER32 would be the larger collets, but you will trade off some spindle to table distance which is not all that large to begin with.
 
Aaron_W said:
I run the MT2 in mine but there are some MT2 ER32 collet chucks out there if you prefer. Mine was modified with a self ejecting spindle, so the MT2 collets are no issue, no beating on the drawbar needed to get them free. Only benefit I see to ER32 would be the larger collets, but you will trade off some spindle to table distance which is not all that large to begin with.
Click to expand...
How do you convert to a self ejecting spindle?
I was thinking about replacing the spindel with one ground for a different size like er 32. I have to take some measurements and see if that's even an option.
 
Oldseabee said:
How do you convert to a self ejecting spindle?
I was thinking about replacing the spindel with one ground for a different size like er 32. I have to take some measurements and see if that's even an option.
Click to expand...

I got it this way, but I'll look through the documents I got with it. The prior owner did the conversion, and may have included the plan he followed. I don't think it is a major project, it just changes it so when you reach the end of the threads it starts pushing the collet out instead of just spinning.
 
Is anyone running a Tree 2UVR mill head on there Clausing mill? Is so who made the adapter? Clausing sold both the 8520 and 30 models with this Tree head.
Mike
 
I now have all the bearings except for one that will be delivered today. Here is a picture of the upper spindel bearing. Can you say DRY-NOISY. The discoloration is heat tracking and burnt oil/grease.
 

Attachments

  • 20221205_133710.jpg
    20221205_133710.jpg
    334.4 KB · Views: 15
  • 20221205_133640.jpg
    20221205_133640.jpg
    261.3 KB · Views: 15
Today I spent several hours just cleaning up the head. Deburring all milled areas. Then I oiled the clean quill and the fun started. It slid in tight and smooth. I installed the depth gauge stop multiple times. I used a New stop from Clausing and had to remove material as it was just a thousands or so too big in diameter. I also hand stoned the depth gauge cutout as it was rough. My old stop was loose as the screw was not tightened up. I also ran the gauge screw through a die to clean it up. The depth gauge/stop now works as designed. Tomorrow I'll build out and install the spindel. New class 7 matched set of lower bearings will not be greased as per Clausing. Just well oiled. I also picked up a new quill drive gear. Part # 341-023. My gear was getting really worn but the teeth on the quill are just fine. For assembly lube I'm using Ballistol oil. I purchased my bottle 4 years ago. As close as you can get to a super high grade lube. I use it on my guns too.
 

Attachments

  • 20221206_175852.jpg
    20221206_175852.jpg
    373.8 KB · Views: 11
  • 20221206_150603.jpg
    20221206_150603.jpg
    376.9 KB · Views: 11
  • 20221206_150555.jpg
    20221206_150555.jpg
    329 KB · Views: 12
  • 20221206_150548.jpg
    20221206_150548.jpg
    311.2 KB · Views: 12
  • 20221206_113524.jpg
    20221206_113524.jpg
    448.1 KB · Views: 13
I now have the head rebuild complete and installed. There are a few tricks I'll pass on. Those 2 upper pulley bearings are a pain, a royal pain. The first bearing on sleeve you need to install short of being all the way down. Make sure the 2 snap rings are in the pulley. Install the sleeve on the head. I used blue lock tite on every bolt. Next install the pulley onto the sleeve and start the second bearing. I used a section of 4140 tube same diameter as the inner race and tapped it in. Oiled it all. I had to pull the pulley off one more time to seat the first bearing a bit deeper. Then re installed the pulley and then the little snap ring just fit. Hooked everything up and it is smooth running. The lower bearings are class 7. The upper pulley bearings are class 1. I went through 3 sets of regular bearings for the pulley and found they were not round. One was off by 0.07.
Now I'm waiting for after Christmas and will replace the motor. Hopefully with a DC motor and controller. My motor is so noisy it's unreal. I checked Inside with a flashlight and I'm amazed it didn't catch fire. It's full of sawdust. So needless to say it is not a sealed motor.
 

Attachments

  • 20221215_181356.jpg
    20221215_181356.jpg
    317.3 KB · Views: 11
  • 20221215_181219.jpg
    20221215_181219.jpg
    404.6 KB · Views: 12
  • 20221215_153413.jpg
    20221215_153413.jpg
    342.7 KB · Views: 10
  • 20221215_143957.jpg
    20221215_143957.jpg
    298.2 KB · Views: 10
  • 20221215_142856.jpg
    20221215_142856.jpg
    439.9 KB · Views: 11
Has anyone replaced one of these motors with a sealed quite one or a DC one?
 
Oldseabee said:
Has anyone replaced one of these motors with a sealed quite one or a DC one?
Click to expand...

Mine has a Baldor 3 phase invertor drive with a VFD. It is not silent, you certainly know it is running but I would not say it is loud either.
 
Aaron, what size Baldor are you running. Most Baldors are smooth running. And some are really quite too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top