Benchmaster MV-1 General Questions

I know a lot of guys have mobile bases under their machines, but unless you need the ability to move things out of the way, like to still get the car in, it's best to have the machines set as stable as possible. Not necessarily anchored, but on leveling, anti-vibration pads. Just my preference.
 
All this new vocabulary - what the heck is a'"spindle'mounted tram" :

Rick
 
Oh yeah - I forgot to ask - does anyone have supporting documemtation for bench master - owmers manual, parts list,'etc

thanks
Rick
 
AR1911 - ok a couple of'questions
first the mobile base - others have suggested that leveling a mill is as critical as a lathe and a mobile base cojnteracts the leveling - any thoughts?

I think the other guys have covered this. The primary benefit of a level table is to make setups easier. You can use a level or a digital protractor to set angles, knowing that the table is at 0. Does not affect accuracy.

second - what is a real milling vise - are you referring to the lower profile vises I habe seen? any suggestions or links to one that would be the appropriate soze for this mill? is the vise that is on there more'of a drill press vise?

What you have is a drill press vise. I have one just like it on my drill press. The movable jaw is held down with something less than precision. On a real milling vise the jaw moves on ground ways much like a lathe.
Look for a 4" angle-lock vise. they are very common. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-4-ANGLE...7?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item20c7eb9921

Finally - not sure what you mean by hold'down clamps - can you tell me more about that?

Shawn has already posted a picture. As he said, be sure the tee-nuts fit your slots, and the studs fit in the slots too.
 
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Thanks for all the info folks - it is'very helpful. My first step is to get the table cleaned up and painted. I'm going to try the leveling casters on it (I currently have a set of those on a wood lathe that I can use to protype). The next step will be to get the machine cleaned up a bit and set up/ leveled on the table. No plans at this point of a complete disassembly but time will tell after some use. The one thing I didn't get a lot of was collets so'that'and a vice'will be on the top of the purchase list. I'm also going to take the advice about joining the yahoo group

Rick
 
I thought I'd post a few pictures of the mill standing up on its newly painted bench. After seeing it upright and playing with it a bit I've decided I'm going to tesar it down for a good cleaning and painting. More to come on that

Front.jpg
Side.jpg
Badge.jpg

Rick

Front.jpg

Side.jpg

Badge.jpg
 
You got a good deal on the mill and to get all that tooling. I like my Bencmaster it was a production machine and I put a 1/2 inch 10 tpi acme threaded rod for the lead screw style. I got mine for $350, no tooling. I bought a 3" mill vicefor about $90.
John
 
Re: Cleanup. I buy a gallon of WD40 at Home depot for $15, and use a trigger spray bottle. That, a couple of stiff brushes and shop rags will have that whole thing shining like a new dime.

For rust removal, but a gallon of Evaporust, pour it in a plactic container, and pile all that rusted tooling into it. The more the merrier, but don't let any of it stick out of the liquid.
Next day pour off the liquid, remove the tools and wipe down. They will be rust free with a thin protective coating.

Save the liquid for the next batch. Won't hurt paint, plastic etc. You can let it sit for days or weeks if you need to, but cover the container.
Good stuff.
 
I bought a clamping set only to find the t-nuts were just slightly to big to fit the table slots, I'm using some carriage bolts that I ground the heads on as a temporary solution until the metric clamping set arrives. The size of the t slots on the Benchmaster table doesn't seem to be very common?

View attachment 40529

Shawn

Shawn,

So what size clamping kit fits the benchmaster?
Thanks.

Lu
 
You have a mill. Why didn't you just cut the tee-nuts to fit?
 
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