Best replacement belts?

I'm using the Power Twist Plus, B-type belt. My mill is currently obstructed by stuff (new shop extension in progress) so its hard to get to but I know its a B-type belt.

I have an RF30 clone and am having vibrations issues with it too. I thought about going the link belt route but I read the 5/8" belts should not be run on a pulley smaller than 5" diameter. Some of the pulleys on my machine are smaller.

Mike, do you run the various pulleys with your Fenner belts or are you using a VFD or some other variable speed device and only using the larger pulleys?
 
I've had Fenner Power Twist belts on my Enco RF-30 clone for about five years now and haven't had any noise or vibration issues.
 
I've had Fenner Power Twist belts on my Enco RF-30 clone for about five years now and haven't had any noise or vibration issues.

Thanks Tom. Looks like I'm getting some link belts on my next trip to town. Might as well pick some up for the lathe too.
 
I discovered the link belt for myself several years ago when I needed to change a belt on a lathe and would have had to take the head apart to get a new belt on. Turns out the link belt is better and I didn’t need to take the lathe apart to install it.
 
Technically linked belts are directional, and the installation states this. On something like a lathe where you are going forward and reverse, probably not an ideal choice. Also the issue of using them on small pulleys and as to speed specifications. If using higher motor speeds, there are better belt drive systems. In comparisons to standard belts that is a lot of different opinions. In many cases the issue is a problem with the OEM belt, in particular with Asian machines. Often they are poorly made, not even in dimension and take a set. There is also some discussion that to get a similar level of friction (prevent slip) that they need to be tensioned to a higher point then standard belts, and this can lead to premature bearing failure. This would make sense because the wrap contact interface is less. On the issue of vibration, once again often better than poorly made belts, but no better and maybe worse then a better well designed belt.

Probably just about everyone who has bought a Asian mill or lathe, the first thing they do is replaced the belts. With small pulleys they do better with notched belts, and they are less likely to take a set. I have been using the Gates Tri-Power notched belts and they have worked very well, no doubt there are numerous other choices. I just wouldn't knock down standard belts vs. link belts because a machine came with a crappy belt. There are lots of choices, linked belts are a good choice where it is a PTA to change the belt or a short term fix (which is what they were designed for). Long term, when is the last time you saw a link belt used in a car or they came standard equipment with a machine.
http://www.gates.com/products/autom...d-accessory-belt-drive-system/tri-power-belts

Link Belt.jpg
 
Technically linked belts are directional, and the installation states this. On something like a lathe where you are going forward and reverse, probably not an ideal choice. Also the issue of using them on small pulleys and as to speed specifications. If using higher motor speeds, there are better belt drive systems. In comparisons to standard belts that is a lot of different opinions. In many cases the issue is a problem with the OEM belt, in particular with Asian machines. Often they are poorly made, not even in dimension and take a set. There is also some discussion that to get a similar level of friction (prevent slip) that they need to be tensioned to a higher point then standard belts, and this can lead to premature bearing failure. This would make sense because the wrap contact interface is less. On the issue of vibration, once again often better than poorly made belts, but no better and maybe worse then a better well designed belt.

Probably just about everyone who has bought a Asian mill or lathe, the first thing they do is replaced the belts. With small pulleys they do better with notched belts, and they are less likely to take a set. I have been using the Gates Tri-Power notched belts and they have worked very well, no doubt there are numerous other choices. I just wouldn't knock down standard belts vs. link belts because a machine came with a crappy belt. There are lots of choices, linked belts are a good choice where it is a PTA to change the belt or a short term fix (which is what they were designed for). Long term, when is the last time you saw a link belt used in a car or they came standard equipment with a machine.
http://www.gates.com/products/autom...d-accessory-belt-drive-system/tri-power-belts

View attachment 246000
Excellent points. I never thought about running in reverse. My mill doesn't have reverse so that wouldn't be an issue but the lathe does. I have used the link belt on my smaller Asian lathe (in reverse too) and it has not been an issue, yet!

I'm sure the problem is with the poorly made belts that came with the machine. I can see the belts wobble horizontally and vertically as they turn. Can't be good for any part of the machine and the noise drives me nuts. I do like the fact that the belts are easier to install and are quiet butthey aren't cheap! But then again I haven't checked out the cost of quality V belts either.
 
I have an RF30 clone and am having vibrations issues with it too. I thought about going the link belt route but I read the 5/8" belts should not be run on a pulley smaller than 5" diameter. Some of the pulleys on my machine are smaller.

Mike, do you run the various pulleys with your Fenner belts or are you using a VFD or some other variable speed device and only using the larger pulleys?

Yup, run all the steps in the pulleys and have had no issues whatsoever. VFD is in the future, though.
 
Yup, run all the steps in the pulleys and have had no issues whatsoever. VFD is in the future, though.
Thanks Mike. Think I will go that route.

Also thinking about the reversing issue ...... not sure that is an issue with the lathe. I think reverse on the lathe is accomplished through gearing, not by running the motor in reverse. Is that right?
 
Thanks Mike. Think I will go that route.

Also thinking about the reversing issue ...... not sure that is an issue with the lathe. I think reverse on the lathe is accomplished through gearing, not by running the motor in reverse. Is that right?

Yup, reverse on a lathe is through gearing, or a tumbler on older lathes.
 
Reverse on a mill and a lathe are done by reversing the motor if done with a drum, rotary or spindle switch. I use reverse frequently when tapping on the mill and all the time on the lathe, but then that is my setup. Bottom line, if your belt is old, or was OEM on an Asian machine it is probably fit to be tossed. Belts, both wear out and become stiff with age, so like on your car need to be replaced over time.
 
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