Best tool for cutting small diameter metal <= 1/4"

I'm just thinking out loud here, but cut close, and face to size. A cut off wheel has a wide kurf, how, and where you place the blade on you mark to cut will make a big difference. In my mind from cutting 2 x 4s for blocking between studs the exact measurement using a pencil line is not exact. Where you put the saw blade will directly effect weather the blocker is exact, loose fit, or if you have to tamp it in with a hammer. Just my thoughts.
 
A hacksaw with a 32 tooth blade will work. Cheap too. Just cut a little long, and
trim to length on your sander/grinder if you have one, or in your lathe if you have one.
Guess it all depends on what length you need, and what you have available to trim it to size. Best of luck! Joe

Sorry, didn't see your reply woodchucker!
 
I have one of those angle grinder set ups - I got it some years ago, for a sailboat restoration project, so I could custom size SS screws, etc.
It works, but it's pretty flexible, the little vise is crap, and it won't cut cleanly, unless you make some kind of zero-clearance table for it.
I would NOT count on it for any kind of serious accuracy.
Just sayin'
 
It depends on the material, how accurate, how many, and how fast. There are many different ways to achieve that objective. For a few pieces of non hardened material, I usually use the band saw in vertical position. For hardened material, a cutoff wheel in the Dremel works well. For steel of questionable hardness, I will use a hack saw rather than risk damaging my band saw teeth.

I don't make final cuts with any of the above if I need accuracy better than .05". Errors associated with measuring, marking, and the cut stack up prevent reliable cutting to size.. I will cur oversized and face on the lathe or the mill if cutting flat stock.

If I have a number of pieces to cut, it is convenient to set up a carriage stop on the lathe and use the parting blade. For short pieces, I just use a spacer the same length as my part plus the width of my cutoff blade between the stop and the carriage. I advance the stock to stick out slightly past the cutoff blade positioned with the stop and spacer and face the stock. Then I remove the spacer, position the carriage against the stop, and cut off the piece. This is fast and will provide consistent lengths to .001". For longer pieces, a pin in the tail stock will provide a convenient stop. For longer pieces, a steady rest should be used and stock should not stick out past past the back end of the spindle by any significant amount to prevent whipping.
 
For small diameter round stock work, I like the narrow inserts in a grooving tool. It cuts cleanly and reliably, has a tiny kerf for minimal waste, and is as accurate as you need it to be. For long pieces I have 3 jaw and 4 jaw tailstock chucks that support the long end and also act as a length stop.
 
RJSakowski said:
It depends on the material, how accurate, how many, and how fast. There are many different ways to achieve that objective. For a few pieces of non hardened material, I usually use the band saw in vertical position. For hardened material, a cutoff wheel in the Dremel works well. For steel of questionable hardness, I will use a hack saw rather than risk damaging my band saw teeth.

I don't make final cuts with any of the above if I need accuracy better than .05". Errors associated with measuring, marking, and the cut stack up prevent reliable cutting to size.. I will cur oversized and face on the lathe or the mill if cutting flat stock.

If I have a number of pieces to cut, it is convenient to set up a carriage stop on the lathe and use the parting blade. For short pieces, I just use a spacer the same length as my part plus the width of my cutoff blade between the stop and the carriage. I advance the stock to stick out slightly past the cutoff blade positioned with the stop and spacer and face the stock. Then I remove the spacer, position the carriage against the stop, and cut off the piece. This is fast and will provide consistent lengths to .001". For longer pieces, a pin in the tail stock will provide a convenient stop. For longer pieces, a steady rest should be used and stock should not stick out past past the back end of the spindle by any significant amount to prevent whipping.
Click to expand...

For the 10-24 screws:
I made a spindle stop with a narrow screw on attachment (.180") that fit into my collet, then locked my carriage in place. Used a narrow HSS cut-off tool (.025")

For short bolts with a head I make a sleeve out of AL so I can clamp the 'body' in the chuck or collet.

Thanks for all the ideas!
 
martik777 said:
For the 10-24 screws:
I made a spindle stop with a narrow screw on attachment (.180") that fit into my collet, then locked my carriage in place. Used a narrow HSS cut-off tool (.025")

For short bolts with a head I make a sleeve out of AL so I can clamp the 'body' in the chuck or collet.

Thanks for all the ideas!
Click to expand...
If using a collet mounted stop, be aware that the seating depth of the collet will vary with the amount of force used to close the collet. Joe Pieczynski did a great video on the subject.
A better strategy for repeatable precision lengths is to use a stop fixed to the spindle. That way the part is referenced to the spindle and therefore the lathe bed. Here was my answer to that.
www.hobby-machinist.com

Lathe Headstock Work Stop G0602

I have used a part stop in my old Craftsman lathe headstock for many years. When making multiple parts, it provided accurate positioning of the parts in the chuck and it allowed removal of parts for measurement when machining to precise lengths. When I bought my Grizzly G0602, I really missed...
www.hobby-machinist.com www.hobby-machinist.com
 
portaband saw with a 32 tooth blade. They even make stands for them from swag off road or some made a chop/miter stand for them.
 
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