Guess I was not clear. I did make a spindle stop but had to add a screw-on tip to fit inside the collet for the .186" diameter of the screw I was cutting. The rod for my spindle stop was 5/16" which was too big.If using a collet mounted stop, be aware that the seating depth of the collet will vary with the amount of force used to close the collet. Joe Pieczynski did a great video on the subject.A better strategy for repeatable precision lengths is to use a stop fixed to the spindle. That way the part is referenced to the spindle and therefore the lathe bed. Here was my answer to that.
Lathe Headstock Work Stop G0602
I have used a part stop in my old Craftsman lathe headstock for many years. When making multiple parts, it provided accurate positioning of the parts in the chuck and it allowed removal of parts for measurement when machining to precise lengths. When I bought my Grizzly G0602, I really missed...
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Best tool for cutting small diameter metal <= 1/4"
- Thread starter martik777
- Start date
- Joined
- May 4, 2019
- Messages
- 792
A rod parter would be great if you have deep pockets. Diacro is truly expensive. There is an alternative:
Armstrong Blum Marvel # 5 Rod Parter cutter, Blacksmith Metal Fabrication Cutter | eBay
<p>Armstrong Blum Marvel # 5 Rod Parter cutter, Blacksmith Metal Fabrication Cutter. Used condition with dings and scratches. Overall nice shape. Please see photos for details. Thanks for looking </p>
www.ebay.com
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2017
- Messages
- 2,138
When I make small screws (model steam crankpins) they usually fall 'around' 2mm or 0.086. (2-56) If the length is important, I use a homemade pin vise of a known depth chucked in the 4 jaw. Most times I work 1/8 (0.125) brazing rod. But I'm only making 8 pieces at any given time. Plus the 10 or 12 that are scrapped. . . There are occasionally larger or smaller screws for restorations, but only one or two pieces. I do use a great deal of 1/16 (0.062) brazing rod, but mostly for shafting where the length isn't too critical. For screws in smaller sizes it's more 'make it fit and file the excess'. I have made a 3-48 screw then tapped the inside for 0-80. But that was a one off, the idea didn't work out.
For 3/16 (#10) screws, they are pretty big. I usually purchase what I need and cut and file to the length required. Cutting threads, I usually use the cutter to a "V-sharp" profile. The Unified was set up to allow tool wear in a production environment. I usually use HSS cutters, carbide doesn't do small threads that well. An easy cutoff for larger threads is to use a block with the proper size hole and a cutoff shear like is made on electrical crimpers. For making a large number that is likely the simplest. The big issue is calibrating the thickness of the shim block. It might take several tries.
I did once make some 5/16 cap screws for a Jeep restoration with a 10-24 in the head.(electrical) But only a dozen or so. And ex-military rigs like the M48A1 are very forgiving about 'exact' fits. So I guess I must say the concept given is beyond my experience.
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For 3/16 (#10) screws, they are pretty big. I usually purchase what I need and cut and file to the length required. Cutting threads, I usually use the cutter to a "V-sharp" profile. The Unified was set up to allow tool wear in a production environment. I usually use HSS cutters, carbide doesn't do small threads that well. An easy cutoff for larger threads is to use a block with the proper size hole and a cutoff shear like is made on electrical crimpers. For making a large number that is likely the simplest. The big issue is calibrating the thickness of the shim block. It might take several tries.
I did once make some 5/16 cap screws for a Jeep restoration with a 10-24 in the head.(electrical) But only a dozen or so. And ex-military rigs like the M48A1 are very forgiving about 'exact' fits. So I guess I must say the concept given is beyond my experience.
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